yo my fi cage on my 929 has been solid so far but i never let it go on ghostrider missions, my buddy started a company called stuntech and is making cages and subcages for the 636, gsxr, 929-954,r6 and others. his design is based on all the existing cages on the market all rolled into one design, basically he took what works and what doesnt on each design and the final product looks sick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! crash testing is happening now and these cages will be available soon for an affordable price and no waiting and getting stroked with backorders and waiting on powdercoaters and are built and tested by real stunters not some ******* poser hop sing looking to make a quick buck, i am sure he will post up as soon as they are out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:YEAH

 

:YEAH :YEAH

Thats the only way to go!

I know my 600rr is like that...all I did was order slightly longer bolts with lock nuts and it's perfect....:YEAH

Depending on the bike you may not be able to do that!

 

Fi Cages Seem To Work Great On The F4i But I Really Like The Sickinnovation Cage. It Has Taken A **** Load Of Abuse I Have Never Bent One Or Stripped Out Any Motor Mounts They Have Awsome Clearence For Drifts And Dont Get In Your Way And Never Seem To Roll Up On The Clipons Only Once In The 200000 Times I've Dropped It

 

Same here.... the ****'s crazy. :YEAH



I heli-coiled my mounts and they're holding up mint. W/ the SI cage that is.....

I wouldn't use lower grade bolts though... you'll be replacing them after EVERY drop.... I tried that one year.

Btw... I have about 10 sets of factory FI bolts that I bought cause I was replacing them all the time.

Lemme know if you want em....

You can't do the long bolt/nut on the f4i.... there's not enough space behind the mount... and even if there was I would NOT take the risk of tearing the entire mount right off the block.

FI puts ALOT of force on those mounts.... I think w/ a nut/bolt it could easily tear the block apart.

 

Ya, I know the 929/954 you can't either.... but the 600rr works perfect!:YEAH

 

I'll tell ya what clearance point always pisses me off...It probably has somin to do with puttin the clip on's on top of the triple and raising the fork tubes.... BUT it's the one where the bottom cage loop always knocks my homemade ramp off of the trailer and leaves me half on half off, high-centered on the cage or exhaust!

It's total: !

I gotta make sure it's slight elevation behind my trailer and I"m cool, flat or downhill... and more of.. at lest I don't shower sparks if I mousetrap!!

 

On the left side of the motor, there is plenty room to nut/bolt


but on the right side, its a bitch.. Gotta use a jam nut, and its a pain in the ***.


But thats how I've always ran my f4i, bought it with stripped mounts, so I just drilled them, and nuted/bolted


But not something I'd suggest.. I gotta remove my tanke EVERYTIME I wanna take my cage off..

 

Ewwwwww..... scary!

 

No heli-coils?
In the airforce the first thing they do to the airplane alluminum block is drill all the holes and heli-coil them. the heli-coil is so much stronger and if you ever damage or cross thread you can just pull the old one out and replace. Just my

 

sup J?? hitting hittin the woodsbike again today??

 

put a 2x4 under the bottom of your ramp .

 

I was just too lazy when I first did it, and I read on here that it was the best way to go (nut bolt) but that was almost 2 years ago..


When I get a new motor, first thing im gonna do is heli-coil it for SURE


But hell, right now I run some junk *** ebay cage, which could be a FI, could be a stunt-aid, could even be a no name.. LMAO...

My engine has about 28k on it, and a LOT of rev limiter.. and NO second gear..

So i'm riding it tell it breaks/blows, and buyin a new motor and doing it right

But with how tank this thing has been, it could be another 2 years :YEAH
And knowing my luck it'll blow next week..


Hell no lol
My back is killing me, legs are hurting, whole body aches..
Trying to keep up with 450 quads is hard on a 150f lol