my 2nd gear is out...it slips every time i'm in that gear...so now i have to switch right to 3rd gear all the way from first, it's annoying.

no more 2nd gear wheelies...and it really sucks when riding streets...you either have to be high reving in 1st, or be in 3rd and have no torque.

annnyyywayyy, how hard is it to work on the tranny? do i have to drop the motor? any online guides?

p.s. on a side note, my spark plug shot out of the motor today...i hope the head threads arn't stripped.

 

holly ****, i hope it just worked it's way out, what where you doing?
but on the tranny i dont know but seems like you might have to drop the motor...
sorry cant help hope you get it fixed up...

 

got to drop the motor and take the whole thing apart.... if u need a transmission or any other motor parts i got the parts and il sell em at a decent price!

 

damn, i was hoping i could just open the motor from the bottom.

as for the plugs....i replaced them like 4 months ago, and the battery died 2 days ago, so i've been push starting it in the mean time...did a 1/4 mile wheelie, set it down, pulled into dennys for a free breakfast

on my way out i tried to push start it downhill and all i heard was like a rod shooting out of the motor, a big puddle of smoke coming from the front of the frame, and the motor sounding like it was running on 1 cylinder, so i turned it off asap and towed it home.

 

you have to take the motor out and split the case dude....the transmission is meshed via gear teeth and your clutch....besides that the transmission is in the same case as the engine....last season had mine out...if you have years working on small engines and motorcycles i'd say have at it, but on another note you may need a dvd-rom for instructions and specific engine "tricks" or hidden bolts.

had to remove my head just to get at 2x10mm bolts how retarded ias that eh

anywho man....with the sparkplug threads may be stripped, hopefully for you and your pocket book it's not and the engine can be repaired. it might be easier to slap a donor engine in ur bike....and fix the tranny on the side as you are out riding in the mean time, keeping the rust off.

the second gear maynot be ruined, it could be the shift dogs or the spring detents in the shifter linkage....if you do alot of speed shifts for burnouts or in ur case 2nd gear street illin' it.....then i'd suggest crackin the case and see what's ruined, order...re-re

hope that helps.

 

il sell you my parts motor cheap! got everything just spun a rod bearing... was still running when i took it apart it just had a rod tapping.... everything else worked good! if your interested shoot me a offer.

 

i would be talking to this guy......spare parts are worth their weight in gold when you break **** on a regular basis!

 

cheap spare parts!

 

hahaha all over it with the CHEAP PARTS.....

 

gixxer son

 

damn ur trying to get rid of those parts bad, huh?

let me start by saying i didn't understand half the words you said.."speed shift, shifter lincage, shift dogs"..etc..etc

so i'll definitly look into getting that dvd.

as for the spark plug shooting out.

i opened the head cover last night, pretty simply, but now there are #s 1-18 for the bolts. weird. looks TOO easy.

spark plug #1 is definitely stripped. and the spark plugs(3 out of 4) were pretty much black and the tip of the plug wasn't sharp, making the gap pretty wide...what does this mean?

 

depends what kinda plugs you run....if the tip is sharp, that could be a platinum plug(they are made that way) and it's normal but the over gap probablly isn't...most bikes run around 0.35''-0.45'' on the plug gap guage.....

the sparkplug hole take the head to a machine shop or to a friends place and get an honest opinion on the ability to re-thread/tap the hole and put a heli-coil in it or somehing to get you by or get a used head and some base/head gasket to seal it up.

as for the tranny parts??? the shift dogs are three little nubs on the gears themselves, when the synchros mesh the gears together the shift dogs lock them up, when you mash them together from doing 1st-2nd-3rd-4th-5th gear changes whilst doing the burn out it rounds off the nubs or breaks them off. that's not very common.

i had some piks posted on another thread from when i mashed my 4th gear on my main shaft and the 2nd or 3rd gear on my cluster shaft from douing a burn out and going into the gears......needless to say it was a total engine case split/surgery...crankshaft and con-rods out etc etc etc....

pretty time consuming anhd someone gave me the wrong timing specs...bent some valves and had to re-re the valves and base head gskt....

 

thx for the explanation, so i guess my shift dogs R fukkd...but priority is getting the bike running (heli-coil), then if i can get it back to normal, i'll start working on the tranny....just wish i didn't have to drop the motor

so far...

i took off the head cover, that's about it.

i'm kinda stuck

the manual says something about setting up or lining up the pistons before opening the head. it also says i have to take off the cam chain. true/false?

there is 18 total bolts, all numbered.

can anyone advise me on all this ****?

 

true


gotta set it at top dead center of the #1 piston

 

4 sure

not sure what you meant by "top dead center" but i remember the manual saying open the right side cover, and line up the marks....is there any OTHER WAY to do it? ( i have plastics on the right side)

and as for the cam chain, i have a manual APE....can i just loosen it all the way? (don't wanna **** up the gasket)

 

ok dude here's what you do. go to ur service manual, look up the valve tining specs. i'm trying to keep it simple here so you wrench as good as you wheelie....there are timing marks on the cam sprockets as well as one on the crank shaft pulley.

take the stator cover off, i think that's the one you said earliwer ios on the right side, there should be a large nut holding the bad-boy on there. use that nut to turn the crankshaft and cam gears until you see the "marks" line up to what the specs in the book say....

top dead center is when your #1 piston is at the end of it's stroke and is as far up in the cylinder as it can go before it begins to travel down, the way you can find this is to take out he spark plug(find which hople is #1 first, you may be messing with #4) put a screw driver in and turn the crank till the screw driver stops coming up and is going to start falling in.

using a screw driver is a bit like "hacking" maybe a plastic dowel or something thatr wont damage aluminum parts eh. if you don't see the crank mark and the cam marks line up the first turn, go one more crankshaft revolution ....then the marks should line up dude.

after that, and everything is lined up, unbolt your ape tensioner and release the cam chain and take it off the cam gears. after that, label and unbolt the cam carriers/caps, locate and mark/reference and moticulously store your camshaft parts...they are really delicate and should go on the same as they came off. when the cams are off, start unbolting the head bolts and use a piece of cardboard with hold punched in it to label and refernece where they go. (the head bolts)

take the cylinde head off.....also get the oil pan off to, in the processs your going to have to have some tupperware youmoms or G/f can donate to put your electronics , oil pump, oil sump and assorted essentials that are bolted to the engine like coolant pipes and o-rings/gaskets.

make notes and good luck, let us know how it turns out...or if ya got other q's.....sorry it's so long , hope it helps dude.

 

HELLL YA!!!

thanks alot dude, that explains everything . i'll probably take everything off tonight.

only 1 more question...why did you tell me to take off the oil pan?

 

some of those bolts/nuts have o be taken out from there.....you also have to remove your oil sump....i'm sure there are hings i fergot...i never stunted a F4-izzle before. to make it best as possible man, take lots of piks and even take notes....not boastin but i am a lisenced technician so i have been in situations where i had to set up tables and literally place seals and clips and **** from transmissions on there....

if i find the tranny build piks i posted up here i'll let you know where...it jus shows a few of the crank and the mashed up gears. take ur time, learn sumthing for next time you blow it up.

and post some piks up in er and show us what you find....

 

i don't get it , why do i have to take off the oil pump?

regardless...i got this far today...

head cover was already off

opened up right clutch cover and ligned up marks, (also put a piston in #1 plug)

opened all 20 bolts

took off the piece that the 20 bolts held (book said be careful, it's fragile so i took 30 mins to take it off )

took off both IN and EX camshafts

removed one of the valve ?covers? using a magnet(the thing with the "shim" in it)

incase you forgot:

1. i'm trying to adjust valves (already bought feelers)
2. get as close as possible to the spark plug threads, so i can see them while i heli-coil. (i'm still like 4-5 inches away.

what's the next step, take off the entire head?

 

if you have the cam chain and cams out yea, that would be it. if you don't have to take the oil sump off then don't, it gets in the way sometimes...iI just took everything apart when i rebuilt my trans....sounds like to are dooing great....keep reading the manual and following instructions....next tinme you'll know what to do and it'll be a joke for ya!