i looked at the manual and i was supposed to take out the "cam pulse generator" BEFORE i opened those 20 bolts. but i didn't

i'm gonna go at it again tonight, hoping i didn't **** anything up.

 

yea dude...that's so you don't ding it and damage it, the cam pulse generator tells the ecu engine speed and gets the coils to send spark at proper time, also used for your tachometer. that's the reason why i said to remove the oil sump....i think you will have to to get at the bolts to split the case underneath.......

you are doing good, you seem to know a bit about wrenchin'......you got a digital camera??? if so take some piks and post em...especially if you are stuck at some point....i do remember my gears on my tranny had to be pressed off and others just slipped onto the shafts....so there i was scratchin my head like..."****...i'm pretty deep in this now!!!!"

but i figured it out....you will too. don't force anything, and use grey permatex to reseal the case halves it works really well and it costs pennies for a small tube. one of the guys told me about it, he actually works at a bike shop so i trust his judgement...he has his F4 apart all the time!

i'm just at work late doing a front differential on a '07 Range rover....all kinds of fun, wish i was drinkin beers workin on my bike

 

i still don't know if you'e trying to say "pump" or "sump"...cause i have no idea wat a sump is.

as for the piece that the 20 bolts hold in (?the camshaft holder?)...the book said it was supposed to come right off and to come off evenly....well, i had to go at it with a rubber mallet and sorta pry it off. and it came off evenly.

now that i think about it, it might have been cause of the pulse generator...how do i go about checking to see if i damaged it?

and as for the pics. i already took some, i'll get some more and post em up tonight.

the grey permatex you mentioned, do i put that between the head, the cover, or both? (everything already has a rubber gasket)

p.s. just ordered some M10x1mm heli-coils off ebay...so hoping to have this baby back together by monday...woot woot

 

so just finished taking off the head...was WAYYYYYYY more complicated than i thought

1. removed radiator
2. removed headers
3. removed cam pulse generator
4. removed thermostat assembly
5. removed throttle bodies

threads look like they might be able to be re-tapped...i hit up home depot but they don't have metric dies....gotta find some metric tap kits now...i'm pretty sure spark plugs are M10x1mm

 

yea dude it's a pain in the ***...the permatex is for the case halves only....the engine splits in half, one side carries the crank, the other hold down.

good idea using the rubber mallet, the cam caps are hard to get off sometimes, everything has tight tolerance.

the sump is the oil pick-up tube in the oil pan, the pump came out of my bike, i had to do it to get at some other important bolts/screws. when you take off the oil pan the sump is the little round things usually submerged in oil dude, it has a fine screen on it to filter out particles of debris that the oil filter cant catch.

YOU SHOULD GET A OIL SUMP MOD IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE...it picks up oil from the rear, i'm sure your bike has one already if you bought it stunt ready.

 

ya now i know what you're talking about by "SUMP"... cause it sucks up the oil...and ya it has the screen.

ya, it has a oil pickup, I installed it about 2 years ago...one of the first mod i did, GLAD i did...rev-limiter burnouts all day...haha

as for the head, i took it to my buddy who is a car mechanic, and asked he how i adjust the valves...and he said i don't need to, and my bike has "feelers" and it's automatic....so adjusting valves is not necessary...

true/false?

 

good you got that oil pick-up/sump mod...it'll save you wghen ur at 12 o'clock too.

as for the valves dude...mine has manual adjusters, you have to have the cam in the rest position and you use a feeler guage to compare to specs what the gap is. if it is over what the spec says you just take the gap measuement and subtract that from the shim (which is under the valve bucket and is the little round piece that presses onto the top of the valve stem) take the shim thickness with a micrometer and add the gap that you need and order your valve shims that are o be replaced.

honestly, if you don't have valve ticking and **** then i'd say forget about it, but it's good you are thinking about it while the engine is out. sometimes the timing chain tensioner is the part that is making the noise but you got the manual tensioner on it, just don't over tighten it when you put er back togeher...heat causes parts to expand and it may damage ****.

the way to tell if you have auto-tensioning valves is to just take the valve bucket off and look at the portion that sits on the valve stem, if it's got a small little circle do-hicky in there thgat pops out save it!!!! and each valve is shimmed to the spec for the gap upon assembly....so be careful...label and put parts in coffee cups etc to make sure they all go back as it once was.

 

i wish i had done that the first time yo usaid it...now i have 50+ bolts and don't know where half of them go haha i guess i'll figure it out.

as for the head, i decided not to helicoil it...got another head piece to replace it with.

the only thing i don't know is how to replace the head "insides/guts" to the new one...(springs, shims, valves..etc..etc)

 

the head guts-- you are going to have to number all cylinders and take it all apart with a valve spring compressor dude. get some coffee cups, take out the valve buckets one by one, label the cup according to valve orientation. the valve cups come off first, then have the head on a piece of wood so you don't damage the mating surface, compressthe spring(s) and the valve will fall out of the bottom when you lift the head. take the spring retainers and the spring and put em in the same cup as the valve and bucket.

when you re-fit all the valves to the new or new-to-you head, you should get some valve-grinfding compound and re-seat the valve face to the seat, it takes time !!!! but the valves will leak a bit if just set into that head, you will get the best compression and you will even have to re-check the valve clearance after they are all installed. the compound is like maybe 5-10 bucks and it'll do multiple head jobs man. buy a case of beer, take your time and keep going.....

 

hey dude, download this manual...i just did today and it is the honda service manual for 2001-2003 F4i

this should help you figure everything else out

http://www.gofastvideo.com/video/379...4i-Shop-Manual

 

good man.....it's one thing to have it in your hands or on the bench....actually trying to give a honest tutorial is worse!!!

 

thats what i figured, it will take awhile to download and its a big file but it is well worth it because it has everything....good luck dude

 

GOOD NEWS!!

the new(used) head off my buddies bike has ALL The stuff already in it and I remember it ran like a champ....

but he didn't have a oil pickup and seized motor...when his mechanic busted it open, it turned out one of the cylinders got oil starved and there was scraches around the rod and in the cylinder.

so the questions is :

1. are the valves and the rest of the stuff in the head probably "OK"?

...the only thing i noticed was a few scraches on the surface of the valve. and i remember his mechanic telling me his piston punched marks somewhere in the combustion chamber.

 

thanks dude but I already have the manual, i remember downloading it from that exact same link too...haha

wayyy too many "honda" tools to buy...wayyyy too expensive.

 

make sure all the valves are closed and turn the head upside-down and put some varsol or alcohol in the recessed area the valves are in to check for leaks around the valves...if they are leaking, you will see the liquid dissapear and the trace is found inside the exhaust or intake runner.

 

if the valves do leak the alcohol or gas or whatever you use to check for a leak you will want to take the time to lap them

 

yea that's what i was describing to him in a huge 3 paragraph tutorial.....i think he's going to be looking for bent valves tho with the block of the engine blown right. usually you can see the fucked valve with the naked eye and that aint gooder. the valves i bought were only 15 bucks a pop....bought a valve tool and mod'd it to work with my head....had it running that day.

 

well let us all know what you find...get it fixed so you can ride again

 

fo sho.

havn't gotten a chance to do it yet, but i ordered a head gasket and it was $60 ******* dollars mind you.

i'll post up some pics and let you guys know what happens as i put this baby back together.

 

tight