Why didn't you drive it in? One loose motor mount isn't going to hurt it.

 

cause i had no way of getting back.

btw, after some thinking, im pretty sure that its IMPOSSIBLE to helicoil without takin off the engine

cause i got the helicoil kit that i ordered, and
1. the tap is too short, it won't reach cause of the spacer
2. the tool that u insert that helocoil with is at least 30mm thick.
3. the tool has to be put exactly against the hole which is about 40mm in the frame. (cause of the nut and spacer)

 

You can definitely do it with the motor on, perhaps just not with your tools.

 

closest guy i found that can re-thread it, either to the same 10mm or the next size up is all the way up in Bell Gardens. roughly 30 miles away.

u know anyone close(er) by?

 

**** i hope ur right.

 

you can buy your own tap....

worst case you take out the motor , it's an f4i not a mack truck......

 

There is no hoping to it dude.

 

**** that, i read the sevice manual...looks pretty hard....i'll prolly just end up strippin more bolts. lol

but ya, i talked to some helicoil guys and it turns out i don't have to take out the motor.

i can either get a tap extension or a longer tap like u said...or just weld some **** at the end of it.

...and as far as the insertion tool goes, turns out i don't really need it, its just there to make it "easier"...i can just do it with a long threaded rod, like the one i got for my 905. (the rear engine mount)

 

bad news...again.

got back on the phone with the helicoil engineering guys, and it cannot be done w/ my own rod. it HAS to be done with their "mandrill" insertion tool, because its got a "reducer" at the end of it which basically reduces the size of the helicoil insert before it gets into the hole. so u can get it started,

he said its pretty much impossible to get the helicoil insert into the hole without that reducer.

any ideas?

 

Haha, man, you're not going to learn everything by looking through a service manual or talking to others, you gotta get out there and figure **** out.

But here is a thread in where Skidmark did exactly what you are trying to do:
https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/444...double-up.html

 

ahhhh goood **** dude!!!!!!!!!!!!! :YEAH

 

YAAAAAAA, i had totally lost faith but, KOLBE FIXED IT!!! :YEAH

it took 3 days but i finally got my bike back.

their mechanic said there was some thread left in there, so he just drilled it a little deeper and re-tapped it...still a 10mm

slapped on my tygershark, and the thing looks sick! i hit up some canyons with it and couldn't scrape it, OMG, i love this cage :YEAH

total cost = $40(tow) + $45(labor) = $85...jayyaaaa

p.s. this time i used a ****** torque wrench

 

glad u got it fixed, good to be riding again isnt it... lucky bastard...

 

keep this in mind for the future... (i wish i would have seen this thread sooner)...i got an f4i with those mounting tabs stripped ON both sides....I've just got good Bolts ...holding the cage on and Nuts on the backside of the bolts (behind the motor tabs)(although it's a tight squeeze on the right side ...part of the nut had to be ground down ) But all in all ...it works.... i just have to check them a little more often.... but so far they've been holding up good

 

'

ya, its ****** bomb!!! :YEAH

 

ohhh, so thats what that guy meant when he said, put the nut on the other side...i always thought that the other side was inside the engine....ill keep that in mind 4sure.