took off my 905, which btw, was all bent up after juts 2 drops.

was putting my sliders on and i guess i tightened it too much, then i heard it strip.

already bought this:

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...qx/product.htm

but i've never done any tapping/re-threading before, so

1. is this the best solution to my problem?
2. is it easy to do?

 

mine have a nut on the other end so maybe thats what you stripped if not then put one..... if you dont like that idea retapping isnt hard at all... just oversize what you have by one then... make sure you put your tool in strait... try not to cross thread whats left of your old threads...... and remember to put lock tight on those bolts!!

 

helicoils work good but they have to be the same length as the hole taping the whole to the next size up is also a good way to go like lczx6r said ..

you can buy taps at most any hardware store

 

that kit ^^ (link) that i bought comes w/ everything including the tap...but i wish that wouldve gotten it from pepboys, it would've cost me $5 less + the $10 shipping.

but here is the thing, i just went outside and examined the engine mount for a little while....it looks like it comes and is replaceable? it looks like it can be taken out with a huge allan key....true/false?

it looks like #20, #11, and #10 on here...

 

how would i replace the nut if its INSIDE the crankcase?

 

never stripped my engine mount but I had to re-tap for one of the bolts that hold the tank down....

I am a complete idiot with tools I have never used (at least the ones that arent idiot proof) and I didnt have a problem, I was just VERY VERY slow about it cause I didnt wanna mess it up... I just screwed the "tap piece" into the hole, it went in pretty smoothly, when I hit resistance, I backed it up a couple threads to make sure I didnt get cross threaded... and then went back down and pushed my way through....

worked fine for me, just be carefull...

I am assuming you are talking about the engine mount that doesnt go into a nut on the other side so you are talking about the one that goes through the frame and into the engine.... SO BE VERY VERY CAREFUL... lol anyways it shouldnt be too hard, hope it works out for ya...

 

ohh now i get it, u were talkin about the long bolt that goes from one side to the other, but ya, like mike ^^ said, its the one that goes into the engine.

according to the schematics, do u think is replaceable or do i have to tap it?

 

just to be clear, its the inside, and cause I dont know what else to call it.... THE HOLE YOU ARE SCREWING THE BOLT INTO... LOL...

is that the part thats stripped, or is the bolt that you are screwing into... the HOLE.... stripped, if its the bolt, replace the bolt probably have to get a new one from where you bought the frame sliders if thats the case, because its a different length....

if you are indeed talking about the HOLE... then you would have to tap it... I think the parts that you are talking about in the schmatics are spacers of some sort... I may be wrong but the mount itself is going to be part of the engine, not something that slides into it...

 

you know bro i have a kawi and my engine mounts are probably alot different from yours.... my top engine mounts where the frame sliders go have bolts on the inside right in front of my engine... and the long one that goes all the way thru is my top tranny mount... if i was you id just tap it... its not hard at all.... its easy... the hardest thing is just to BE CARFUL and SLOW!!!! just tap a size higher and make sure your stait... when you feel resistance back out half a turn then go back in til you feel resistance and go bout maybe a half to full turn then back out and so on..... but just make sure you dont cross thread... BUT by the look of that layout you have there all three parts of the mount bolt looks like they can be replaced........

 

that is true..... looks like spacers but they might be spacers that expand??? the tighter you go the closer they get and the snugger they get in the hole??? if that makes sense to anyone......

 

lol

u know wat? those "spacers" actually kinda look like heli-coils...no?

here is a better pic that i got from the service manual....part A is the one that looks like it comes out with a allan key and part B is the one that looks like the heli-coil.




Heli-coils

 

thats exactly what heli-coils do!

now wat im tryin to figure out is if part B the thing that the engine-mount/frame-slider bolt threads into?

 

the parts on the fich just take up the play between the motor and frame the actuall motor mount is part of the motor and will need to be helicoiled or tapped

 

im 99% sure that part A and B are both inside that hole in the frame... part A screws ontop of part B.... and then beyond that... follow the line from part B..... THAT is where the bold threads into....

 

oh yeah I think the reason that part A screws onto part B is so that when you mount the engine, you can line it up straight.... like roger said.... thats why there is the same thing on the engine mount further back... they are on both sides and that is what enables you to make sure that there is equal distance between the frame and engine on both sides....

I have no clue if that makes sense but it makes sense to me

 

ahh man, i was hopin i could just replace it but w/e, its all good

my Helicoiling tools should be here tomorrow.

i'm guessing that im gonna have to take part A and B off before i tap, because the only thing that needs re-threading is the actual engine/frame hole. and parts A&B all fit for a 10mm.

omr, the Helicoils im getting are 15mm long, i called em up and they said that if the bolt/hole is longer, i could just put more inserts in there...(im guessing 3 or 4)....

 

sorry to hear about all this by the way, stuff like this seems to happen to me alot too....

sometimes its just worth it to take it to the shop to get stuff done, then again it would REALLY suck if they didnt even tell you that its stripped, and just to be sure cause I was re reading this... do you know for certain that it is stripped, cause you said you heard it strip... I am thinking that maybe you just backed the bolt ALL THE WAY IN... and what you heard may have just been the end of the bolt twisting on the back of the engine mount hole...

when ur havin sex with ur girl, you can get it all the way in and hear her moan, but it doesnt mean that the hole is messed up... just means that you got it in just the right spot.... lol

retarded analogy but only one I could think of on short notice...

 

whenever I stripped out a hole I was putting a bolt in I never could tell from hearing it strip, the bolt all of a sudden would just keep spinning...

like I said above, might have been just the metal on metal rubbing noise from the end of the bolt twisting on the back of the engine mount...

 

Heh, Jay, you might want to think twice about doing this yourself.

Basically, you need to take a drill bit and drill out the spacer on the frame a little so that you can completely see the motor mount. This way when you drill the actual mount out nothing will get in your way and **** up your alignment. Next, take the tap and tap the hole. And yea, you're going to want to use 2 15mm inserts if you want the threads to be as long as they were originally, but doubling up the inserts is tricky. Basically, drive one in all the way to the back. Then you want to drive in the second one being careful to leave about 1-2 threads in between the 2 inserts so the bolt can wiggle a little and slide freely between the 2 inserts.

 

LMAO



ya, im pretty sure its stripped, some of the threads came out when i took out the bolt.

the only thing i'm worried about now, is that the tap/drill (13/32) will be long enough because the threaded part of the hole is roughly 5.5 inches in from the point that the drill-bit/tap will be going in.