not to sound dumb but i always just had the dealership adjust and lube up the chain. any pointers on how to do it? my chain looks dirty as **** and i know it'll run a little smoother if it's adjusted and properly lubed.

thanks.

 

yeah, your bike will def. run a little bit better with a clean, tight chain. heres the basics:

1st put the bike on a track stand, in neutral. (i hope you have one, if you dont, cleaning and adjusting the chain is MUCH harder)
2nd, as this job is messy as fu*k, put something down under the bike/chain. (i use a disposable aluminum cooking pan, or a pizza box if i'm just lubing it)
3rd, use kerosene and a natural bristle brush to clean the chain and sprockets. DONT use a wire brush, unless you dont have an O or X ring chain, which you most probably DO. also, DONT use gasoline, as it will damage the O rigns as well.

When the chain is clean, dry everything with a rag, and use a commercially available chain lube (i use bel-ray) that is approved for O-ring/competition chains. jam the extender straw right in the chain on the SPROCKET CONTACT side of the chain. (the INSIDE), and rotate the wheel while you spray. give it 10 or 15 minutes to penetrate the chain before you ride, also, lubing the chain is done much better and easier on a warm chain - once the chain is clean, just lube it occasionally, after you ride.

Adjusting the chain is a little trickier, depending on how your bike has it set up. I'd recommend getting the shop manual and following their instructions. the basic way to adjust a chain is to remove the rear-wheel cotter pin and loosen the axle nut, loosen the chain adjuster lock nuts, (one on each side) and turn the adjustment bolts to tighten/loosen the chain. it should have about an inch (no less, maybe a little bit more) of free play in middle of the chain, in between the sprockets. you have to adjust BOTH chain adjusters, and make sure that the mark on both is in the same place (theres markings) to ensure that the rear wheel is aligned. then tighten both locknuts and the axle nut, and replace the cotter pin.

My advice above all: buy a shop manual if you wanna do stuff to your bike by yourself. the 50 bucks you'll pay for it will pay for itself in answering your questions like this one...

 

thanks for the info. you answered all my questions!