Originally Posted by f4rider

Why clutching wheelies is the best method for launching wheelies
Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant. I also have never read about any major problems as the result of the extra tension on the drive train. There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. powering wheelies. 1. It allows you to wheelie bikes that don’t have enough power to power it up. 2. You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point. 3. The launch is more predictable. When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point. From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all. 4. All of the pros that I know of clutch every wheelie. You want to be like them don’t you?

How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple different methods for clutching wheelies. I prefer the second method.
Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpm’s before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn’t get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch. I is not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble.




Using the rear brake: Slowing wheelies down / 12s
Wheelies are slowed down by riding the wheelie behind the balance point. This is one of the hardest parts of learning to wheelie, not because of skill, but because of the ***** required. To learn how to use the rear brake, you basically need to grow some *****, bring the wheelie up behind the balance point, and tap the brake. Soon this process will become second nature. To slow a wheelie down, you must give the bike enough throttle to get the wheelie behind the balance point. Now if you get scared and push the rear break hard at this point, it will quickly bring the wheelie forward without slowing it down much. To slow it down, you must keep it behind the balance point by gently riding the brake. To 12, you just do the same thing, only you get off the rear break enough to allow the bike to lean back on the tail. Unless you plan on parking a 12, make sure you get back on the brake before the wheelie slows down enough to stall the engine.

Riding slow wheelies
After you get good at slowing down wheelies, then you should be able to ride slow wheelies out. First of all, turn up your idle. I do slow stuff with the idle at 3.5k rpm’s. The high idle allows you to ride slow wheelies much smoother. Be careful, however, when first turning up the idle, because you will have to use the rear brake, when going slow, to keep from looping. When riding slow wheelies with the idle high, with some practice, you should be able to ride the wheelie by using the brake, and only blipping the throttle if the wheelie starts to come down.

Once you have learned all of this, all of the wheelie variations will pretty much be self explanatory.

I don’t care if you guys ***** this information out on other websites. It would be nice to have some recognition for writing this, but I don’t think I want my name attached to this for legal reasons.
If you know what you are talking about, post up suggestions regarding this post. I will be editing if there is better information/ tips for beginners. Feedback would be nice.

Originally Posted by gixxercan

Well, I'm new to this site. but i've been riding for 3 months and stunting for 2..

I've got my stand ups and sit downs to a Dime on getting them up

*2nd gear I'll pop them up at 4,000rpm*

Buckle up has seen my progression so he knows i'm not being a squid or a wack and just trying to wreck me or the bike

i've been practicing.. my only problem is now.. How can I ride it out longer.. i set it down at 10g's. but I can only go about mile.. mile and half.. then I set it down.. how do you go longer.. i know ride the brake but it doesn't seem to help i either give it to much or to little.. Would a hand brake set up help me with this?

Originally Posted by gixxercan

Well, I'm new to this site. but i've been riding for 3 months and stunting for 2..

I've got my stand ups and sit downs to a Dime on getting them up

*2nd gear I'll pop them up at 4,000rpm*

Buckle up has seen my progression so he knows i'm not being a squid or a wack and just trying to wreck me or the bike

i've been practicing.. my only problem is now.. How can I ride it out longer.. i set it down at 10g's. but I can only go about mile.. mile and half.. then I set it down.. how do you go longer.. i know ride the brake but it doesn't seem to help i either give it to much or to little.. Would a hand brake set up help me with this?