Ok so I 'thought' I had a 6 click style gpr, but I actually have a 8 click, so I'm rebuilding it myself.

Wondernig what type of oil and what weight to use?


Also, mine just leaked out around the adjustment ****, and all I had to do was remove the circlip from the adjustment **** and could see 1 of the 2 o-rings were damaged on the adjustment ****.
So is rebuilding this thing as easy as just slapping a pair of new O-rings on it?
If so, I'm surprised everyone sneds them in.. It takes just as long to get the thing off the bike as it does to rebuilt it (other then bleeding it)

 

i think if people have the old style they send them in and they usually get a brand new one back

 

Send it back to GPR. It's worth the wait. Not only do they fix it for free, they'll put any oil you want in it and check the entire damper out. I simply tell them to put the heaviest oil they have in it. Done. You only pay for shipping to and from GPR. Or, do what I do and have any extra damper on standby in case I have to send one in. That way I'm never without a damper.

 

I know I could send it in, but instead of spending $45, If I can do it myself for under $3, I'd rather do that

Already got the O-rings for $1.29


I'm a DIY guy, I built my own cage, I paint my own bike, I work on my own ****. If I can do something and save money, I do it myself.

 

Yo Towlieee, so did you only have to replace those rings after removing the circlip? Also, is there anyway you could briefly explain how to bleed them. I haven't looked over the V1 damper that well, but I would like to rebuild and put a heavier weight oil in it. Thanks in advance man.

 

Good point. The most it's ever cost me round trip is $25. I'd opted to have the peace of mind knowing it was done by them versus trying it myself. Last time I sent one in they rebuilt the entire damper free of charge.

 

**** last time i sent one in it was the 6 click and they sent me a brand new 8 click back and said enjoy......the one you had is 4-5 years old and this one is brand new even let me choose my color i love gpr ill get another one soon.

 

ask a2k about bleeding them... i know that its easier to sink the whole thing in oil and take the 2 screws outta the top and the 2 screws out of the side that faces ur tank and submerge it in oil and just pump the lever back n forth till theres no air that comes out.. and a2k... aka my lil bro put 10w40 in his **** and i know that rowdy runs straight 80-90 gear oil...!!!

 

I was gonna send it in, but then realized I had the 8 click one. Plus this one I have is mint, was on a minty bike that wasn't ever rode hard, just started leaking after a couple years.

Good info!
Yeah I've definitely heard about submerging which is what I'll prolly do.

I've heard 80-90 gear oil is actually close to 10-30 or so (from what I read), and that 10-30 is close to fork oil at like 5-10w!
I know they are all rated different, but not sure how different.

I read somewhere that scotts dampers use either 2.5 or 5wt fork oil.. So I might try some 5wt or 7.5wt fork oil.

 

no no no... Take a moment an grab the 80-90w oil for rear ends in cars and grab the bottle of motor oil you put in ur bike... Prolly 10w-40 or 10w-30... Now pour a lil o the rear end oil on ur finger and move it around a lil bit and watch how it comes out like molasses... Next take the motor oil an pour it between ur fingers and it comes out like table syrup after being heated up in the microwave for a couple seconds... These 2 oils are not even close to being the same... Way different viscositys and different additives and anti foaming agents, etc, etc... The rear end fluid is made to withstand the pressures of a ring and pinion gear and motor oil needs to be squeezed thru small oiling orfices in motors and idk how rowdy is running the 80-90 thru his setup without blowing seals left n right but hes doin it and its stiff as hell!!! My lil bros with the 10w-30 is awesome... Just th right amount of stiffness for endos and still manageable on the street...

 

+1 Saweet man, good info. You and your bro always come through. He's helped me with plenty of things in the past. Hopefully he gets a damn motor soon if he hasn't already. I have seen **** for good deals, just *** rape prices.




Now, still curious about the rebuild. So if mine has started to leak near the adjustment ****, more than likely all I need to do is replace those orings under the ****? The submerging and bleeding seems pretty straight forward. I'll mess with it this weekend.

 

ya just replace those orings like towlee... bleeding those things r simple when u submerge them... u have to move the lever back n forth alot... and i would suggest bleeding it when its set on 1

 

Awww C'mon man you don't want me to set it on 8 and video tape me struggling to move it just to give you a good laugh? That would be funny, sure some noob wouldn't think about it and think he broke something or that it's really just that difficult.

 

i run synthetic automatic trans fluid in my scotts , prob doesnt help just felt like chiming in

 

It dont cost 45 it free all u pay is shipping u cant rebuild them ure self because they pressurize them i called them about it cuz i wanted to take mine apart to powdercoat it and tue said u cant cuz they have to pressurize it or it wont work