So im about to start taking the 50 down and send it to my powder coater. While its down, i'll be putting the 88cc stage III kit it as well......Im just curious, should i put the manual clutch in it while im at it. Or should i just stick with the semi clutch (but buy a heavy duty one)......I know everything has its advantages and disadvantages. So im stuck trying to decide if i should go manual now or go manual later....=-)

 

Do it. There really isn't a down side to the clutch. You can learn how to use it instead of your HB and it makes merks way easier, plus it can save you when things go wrong with the extra power...

 

I kinda figure it will help on when learning uni's. But havent thought much more into it then that. Is it hard to change the clutch with the engine in or should i just say **** it and take care of all of it while its out......Was just curious incase i wanted to do the manual later on.......But if it makes things alot easier. I'll just do it while the engine is out and save myself the hassel later on...=-)

 

You can change it out with the motor in. Worst thing you have to do is just pull the peg stay and kicker off. Super easy to do. Should only be a 15-30 minute job. Just make sure to have the clutch nut tool and an impact driver...

As for unis, it is all or nothing, but you can at least cut the drive to the rear by pulling the clutch in, and not run yourself over if you chase one.

The clutch is the only thing I know, I have rode the semis and they are just lacking. With the manual, the clutch stays ingaged all the time, even at idle, so you don't have to worry about the clutch dis ingageing like the semi. Coasters are super easy with the clutch, and what could be better than clutching up a 3rd gear wheelie for a dead stop and creeping it on idle...

If you buy a manual, buy the TB or Takegawa one, stay away from Brand X. Both TB and Takegawa have 3 plate clutches, where Brand X only has 2 plates.

 

Yeah makes alot more sense to go with the manual now that u say that, LoL. I'll probably just order it all from Ryan in a week or so and go from there. I see Ryan as the TB with the 3 plate clutch, so sounds like everything from him should work just fine........Id rather do it all in one wack instead of waiting and doing things later.......I bet there is a night and day difference between the manual and the auto, hehe...=-)

 

Totally different, plus first gear will be a little longer to with the change from semi to manual. The manual gives you a different ratio. Much better than stock, and doing it all at once is easier to while the motor is out. Levers will have to be changed to your liking. I run 2 ASV's F3 on the clutch side. I will try to get you some pics so it will be easier to figure out.

 

What size rear sprocket should i go with?

 

34 on the back is perfect, but a 15 on the front is even better for streching out gears...

Just an idea, you can get with Terry w/Firepower Minis and get a TB 88 kit with race head piston and get one of his e22 race heads for a bill so it totals you up to 180 shipped and he will throw in a new cam chain and magnetic drain plug for free, plus he also has the clutch as well. The head will have new valves and a mild MX cam... If you need his contact info, pm me...

 

So $180 shipped for the full kit with the race head?

 

Yep, that's right. The e22 head is the same as the TB race head... Modded heads are 100 bones, and 80 for the TB cylinder and racehead piston, with all gaskets and everything else. I bought the TB kit with the e22 head and a AHP 4 speed for 260 shipped with a free cam chain and magnetic drain bolt... Terry with Firepower Minis is on Planet Minis... One hell of a guy, and super helpfull. Plus his shipping is 3 days max...

 

Respect, here are the pics of the lever set up.... Clutch is on top...

 

http://www.firepowerminis.com/fifties.html


Scratch my last price statement. 224 shipped for a stage 3 kit... 100 for the head, and 124 for the slug and jug...