I think my clutch is starting to slip or something. After my bike gets up to operating temperature or higher I havent been able to clutch up 2nd gear sitdowns for shyt no matter what rpm's I pop the clutch at. I go about 45mph in 2nd at about 6000rpm pull in clutch/gas/pop clutch roughly ranging from 9,000-10,000-11,000-even 12,000rpm sometimes. Comes up maybe a foot or two. This has been going on for a while. I am still getting used to clutching the right way after some tips from a friend who told me the correct way. I think my old method is what has burnt up my clutch. I know my bike is fully cable of coming up high without being that high in the rpms because I have done it before. The other day when I first got my bike out to ride and warmed the tires up for about a mile or so I clutched up a 2nd gear sitdown before the engine and clutch got hot and it came up pretty high with alot less rpms, not the first time that has happened either. This is the reason I think it is starting to slip when it gets heated up, although it is not slipping to the point that it pops out of gear under hard accelaration yet. I Need some feedback on what brand Clutch kits are good and who has good prices. I have heard that stock clutches are good enough. That is cool, but if there is an aftermarket kit that will last longer and is cheaper then let me know which one and where I can get the best price.

 

I don't know how long it lasts yet but I bought a Barnett Kevlar clutch kit off of ebay. I love it. The springs are harder than I am used to but it is really crisp and it grabs like a mother. I paid 168 plus shipping for the steel plates, kevlar plates, springs, and a new gasket. Stock was over 250 for the same pieces. Look up an ebay store called 58cycle. I paid with Paypal and got the clutch 2 days later. All of his stuff is "buy it now" so you don't have to wait for the auction to end.

 

What type of bike and how many miles? Unless you do a ton of burnouts
Useually the stock lasts a long azz time but if it is a clutch you need I agree use barnett they also have a carbon fiber clutch that is supposed to be the strongest yet,,I have one and it works like a charm. A bit of advice if you change it yourself, first make sure that everything goes back in the axact order it came out and soak the new plates in new oil for about 20 min. before installing them. oh and one more thing make sure you follow the correct torque specs in the manual, the stock clutch spring bolts are useually crap and sometimes they will break during installation because a) they were designed to break if you over torque them and b) the barnett springs are like he said, a lot stronger. I replaced mine with some higher grade bolts I bought from Ace hardware.
It's easy to do and doesn't cost much.

 

I own an 02 f4i. About 7500 miles on it. The reason I think it is burnt out is because of the way I used to try to clutch 2nd gear sitdowns. I'll try to explain to you my old method. Dont laugh. I would be rolling at about 45mph at about 6000 rpm on throttle, pull in the clutch and kind of ROLL OFF the throttle and then release the clutch and roll on the throttle at the same time. Instead of just staying on the throttle and releasing the clutch I guess I was scared and would roll off unintensionally. This actually worked sometimes so I kept on doing it. It never came up very High of course. I was doing this method for at least 2 to 3 months maybe more, before a buddy told me the proper way to do it. The first time I clutch using the proper method by staying on the gas that mother hucka leaped in the air on me. I was so stoked but like I said it only comes up like that now when the clutch is cool, or if I'm in first gear of course. Do you guys think my old method could have burnt my clutch up. Oh, I have only done maybe 3 burnouts on my bike. Not very smokey ones either.

 

the only thing that burns a clutch up rapidly is just like a car and thats riding it so it depends if you had the clutch all the way during burnouts prolly not.
If you had it just partially engaged (very common with burnouts) it will fry a clutch soo fast. Also think about how long it takes you to let the clutch out if you are like me and let that thing out slowly practicing wheelies (I know its wrong, Im fighting the instinct ,,,no really I am) or slowly durring burnouts that will definatly speed up the process. Other thangs that can happen are glazing the plates just like brake pads clutch disks can "glaze witch makes them less effective" that happens when you are hard on a brand new clutch. <---(I said hard on) or a new clutch wasn't soaked in oil before installation.
The worst thing for a driveline including the clutch is a burnout and mostly thats when you do it wrong ,,,so think about how you ride and that might be able to give you the awnser. If you have questions E-mail me, DusttoDustt@aol.com

 

I think I got the answer now. When I did wheelies using my old method I would let the clutch out slower. I would never let go of the lever. When I say never let go I mean I would kind of let it out as fast as I could without just popping it out. That was one of the things my boy told me I was doing wrong. Now I just pull it in with one finger and let it pop out. The old method is probably what burnt my clutch up.