stand alone

it ran when i first picked it up too....

ok, so this is the typical no fuel pump no spark, but it gets weird
start button works, cranks over, wont run
both engine cut off and fuel relays tested n good
tip sensor bypassed, white/blk left hangin
pink wire good, 9vlts and not loose
engine kill switch good
checked any wire i cound and everything looks good

ive also read almost all the f4i threads and did all that stuff and still nothing

no relays click, no pump at all, no spark
good batt, solid connections
all good fuses
checked the diode in the fuse box and seems to check out, only resistance between two of the posts in one direction (not much in the book about it)
put power to the pump and it works

now for the odd stuff with the gauges
oil light is flashing, filled with fresh oil
did the FI diaognostic-
FI light blinks 9 times, meaning the IAT sensor, checked and good
if you dont do the diagnostic the FI light stays on.
NOW WHAT IS THE BLANK RED LIGHT TO THE LEFT OF NEUTRAL???
it stays on and i didnt see anything anywhere about what that light is

and, after doing all the things ive seen on here the gas gauge wasnt workin, then after looking at the diode in the fuse bo, its reading, but its saying the tank is full... its deff. not full....

ive spent about 7 hours on end so far and have gotten almost nowhere except stumped.
help...

stand alone

i checked the FI light system again, heres some other codes that came up
9 (like before)
11 (speed sensor)
14 & 15 (#3&4 injectors)
and 19 ignition pulse generator

and please note that none of this stuff was messed with, not even disconnected. the bike ran, all i did was a big cosmetic overhaul. fixed the fan switch wiring (blk/blue wire) and fixed the charging system. no clue why all this stuff is wrong now and wont run

DSC

i know you have probably already retraced all your steps but if you haven't do it again. the only thing i have that might help is one time i switched the two white connectors at the front. didn't do all the things yours did but it wouldn't prime. ecm maybe? other than that better take it to the Dr. house of motorcycles.....whoever that may be

DSC

i just looked at my cluster and i think the light to the left its just to let you know that the key is on but engine is off. mine comes on and stays on until the engine starts then goes off. and of course goes off when key is turned to off

Big Float

if you have the manual, in the FI diagnositics section it will tell you how to clear all the FI trouble codes in the ECU. Ive had a f4i that had a bunch of codes stored in the ECU that didnt apply anymore.

If it were me I would clear all the FI codes to start fresh, then see what codes pop up after they have all been cleared and go from there

stand alone

would erasing the codes possibly cure/reset the system??

Big Float

it could, but I think that might be a long shot. for example if you have the iat code blinking and and the iat is plugged in and good then it seems that you have left over codes in the ecu.

I had a similar problem with a f4i i built with ecu off ebay, I got the bike together and it wasnt running right. it was throwing like 4 or 5 different FI codes and I couldnt figure out why it was throwing the ones it did. so I just cleared/reset the codes in the ECU. then fired it up and waited and it only threw one code, the map sensor code, so I borrowed a different map sensor and it was fixed, no more codes and bike has been fine since

so clearing them might not fix it altogether but it might direct you to the actual problem

stand alone

deff. gonna go that direction for sure. i measured the voltage from the pink wire and im getting 9.67vlts is that to much?? its just a guess as far as the diode possibly failing. other than this im still kinda stumped...

billiebadass

With the gauges going crazy on you, I havent seen that yet, But I do know that if you turn the key on and the switch on and you dont hear the fuel pump, but it cranks over, then you might have the two connectors up front switched or this has happened to me the diode thats in the bottom of the igntion switch itself went bad. the only way to fix that is with a new one.. Make sure our wiring is correct for the tip over sensor stuff.. Good luck

Big Float

+1 on that, those two big grey connector on the front end of the wiring harness look just alike and will plug into each other, Ive made that mistake b4

stand alone

agreed. when i first went to fire the bike and it wouldnt run, i checked the fuses and kept blowing headlights, i found that post on another thread, swaped em, (checking the colors and realizing what i did) and i stop blowing fuses, but it still wouldnt run.

im going to do the "clearing out the codes" and "priming the fuel pump" things first thing when i get to work and see where that takes me.

does anyone know on the pink wire if 9.67 volts is acceptable?? i know its supposed to be 9vlts, but didnt know if that mite still be to much????

stand alone

heres some of the research ive found so far that im going to try tomorrow
-reset the ecu FI codes and see what pops up new
-check the big gray connector under the left air duct, found that some people found that it comes loose and causes some crazy **** on the gauges, just like i have.
-checking the pink wire diode again just to see if the 9.67 volts is passable
-priming the fuel pump, (it may help, but this one is last)

ill check in tomorrow and late everyone know what happens

stand alone

I ****** GOT IT!!!!!

a big thanks goes to big float

he told me to check clear the 6 FI codes and see what comes up after its been reset. i originally thought if you cleared the codes, it wouldnt be able to give any more codes unless it ran, thankfullyi was wrong. i got code 15 again, bad commuinication with injector 4, found that the wire right on the cdi was a lil jacked up, but still connected. repaired it using the stock metal plug clip and a new wire and everything turned right on!! but my gas gauge is still reading full, and its deff not. the book says you have to replace the fuel pump if that happens. anyone know how to cheap fix that? thanks

Big Float

Sweet man, Im glad you at least got it running. As for the gas level reading I dont really know about that.

Sometimes at the lot my reserve bars will show up on the guages and then after riding a wheelie around for a bit they will disappear then reappear again after riding around on two wheel for a bit.

You could always try the ol unplug the guages for a few minutes then plug them back in, or ride it around for a bit and the sensor in there might just correct itself

Sikgixxer750

let me know if you find out about your gas gauge because mine will read accurately if I unplug the gauges after I fill it up. Than when the reserve bars come on if I fill it up they wont go away and it doesn't read accurately anymore. Anyone have an idea on what could be wrong?

crazy_stunter_6

nice job