Just to get rid of the clutter and answer some questions here are a few help and how tos for the 04/05 GSXR 600/750. This is how I have done everything. It may not be the best way but is done to the best of my knowledge. Post up if you know better than I do.


STUNTEX OIL PICKUP:

A GSXR really needs a modded pickup to keep from starving the engine of oil while in a wheelie. Nearly all the years suffer from this problem due to the stock location of the oil pickup. The Stuntex design is a simple and cheap solution that moves the pickup to the rear of the case so that the pump keeps drawing oil even in a wheelie. You may encounter problems when in stoppies but overfilling by ½ to 1 quart of oil can help combat this problem.
I do not have pictures of the installation procedure but I will still explain it. First you must remove the fairings. Then the radiator must be unbolted. There are two bolts on the top and one on the bottom. You may also want to unplug the temperature switch at the top of the radiator too. The radiator can then be allowed to hang loose on the hoses. The next step is removing the exhaust. There is a bolt on the right rear foot peg, one under the bike, and two per header pipe. With the exhaust off you have easy access to the oil pan. Make sure that the engine is empty of oil and then you can unbolt the oil pan. I believe that they are 8mm bolts. The pan can then be pried off if it is stuck on. The black plastic pipe that hangs down is the oil pickup. There are two bolts that attach it to the engine. Remove these two bolts and put the new pickup in its place using the original hardware. Before you replace the oil pan you will want to clean all the surfaces that join together between the pan and engine. Smear a light coating of RTV (you can pick it up at any auto parts store) on the pan where it contacts the engine and bolt it back up. Put the exhaust on and then the radiator. Don’t forget to re-fill the engine with oil and start it up checking to ensure you get oil pressure.

 

DISABLING THE TIP-OVER SENSOR

By disabling the tip-over sensor the bike is less likely to kill while in a wheelie and will continue to run while on its side. The tipover sensor is located under the tank up against the plastic attached to the subframe. It is shown in the first picture. You need to pull it off its mount and unplug it. After disassembling the TO you will see the parts in the second picture. You can use tape, glue, epoxy, or zip-ties to secure it oriented like in the picture. Put it all back together and your tip-over sensor has been disabled.

 

RELOCATING THE COOLANT RESIVIOR

I moved the overfill bottle when I streetfightered my bike because it was vulnerable to crashes and is ugly. Here is how:

You shouldn’t have to drain the coolant from your system to do this. Just make sure that it is below the cap on the radiator. First remove the old coolant reservoir. You shouldn’t need anything off of it so you can toss it. I then fabricated a new reservoir out of an old brake fluid can and a couple of steel pipes. The steel pipes were brazed into place although you could JB Weld them in place too. It is seen in the first picture. I then located the can under the tank and held it in place with zip-ties. From the top nipple you need to run the overflow hose. Make sure that it routes higher than the top of the radiator otherwise you could create a siphon and you could drain all your coolant. It can be routed along with the tank drains on the right side of the bike. From the bottom nipple run a hose to the radiator. See the second pic for the final setup.

 

ACCESING THE IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW

Because of the constant changes you want to make to the engines idle speed you need to make the adjustments easy. The idle adjust screw is on the right side of the throttle bodies under the tank. This is not a good location because it is difficult to get at. See the first pic for its location. Using ¼ inch drive extensions and swivel joints I fabricated and extension to the end of the idle adjust screw. I welded it all together but once again you could just JB weld it too. The setup is shown in the second and third pictures. The handle that I use to adjust the idle is in the third pic.

 

SHORTENING THE EXHAUST

The stock exhaust will hit the ground before the tail does which is usually a bad thing. It also looks like ship being so long so it needs to be shortened. I shortened it from the end so that the mounting point isn’t moved. Simply remove the end cap and chop it shorter using a hacksaw or chop saw (suggested). The internals are shown in the first pic. After you have it to the length you want gob some rtv all over everything and stick the end cap on as seen in the second pic. Then screw the cap to the internal cap. I also drilled and screwed the end cap to the side of the pipe which can be seen in the third picture.

 

I have done a lot of other stuff like a custom gear indicator, heated grips, adjustable streetfighter headlight mount, speedo recalibrator, custom damper mount, and some other stuff that I cant remember right now. If you want some help just PM me or reply on here.

 

Good shi** man!!

 

Everyone with a gsxr needs a STUNTEX oilpickup...one of the cheapest and easiest thing you can do that will save you so much trouble in the long run

 

damn that gixxer is setup right

 

i have an 03 600. went to the wreckers and bought a 96-97 i think it was. idle cable/adjuster. replaced it with the original screw and screwed it to my cooland overflow. works perfect and easy to get to. comes out the side of your tank no worries. this is my set up anyway. will see if i can get some pics

 

Or you can go to the suzuki dealer and order a idle adjuster for an 2000 gsxr 750 with the bracket that bolts to you over flow. everything you need shold cost you about 35.00

 

Here is the damper mount. I made it to save money and improve the stock Ohlins mount. The stock mount breaks indexing pins and doesnt use the complete stroke of the damper. This mount braces on the upper tripple and also uses the forward tank mount. It is made out of 4130 steel and relly doesnt take too long to build.

 

how did you mount your gage cluster?

How hard was it to wire up?

any other info you can give me on the install

How did yo mount you turnsignals?

Pics would be great. Im trying to decide if i want to to this so all the help i can get would be awsome thanks. O yeah im have an 03 gsxr

 

you can also use the idle adjust tube thats stock on 636,R6,zx10,R1 and am sure theres others but it works great and it takes 2 sec to install

 

Why did you relocate the overflow bottle???

also the idle extension seems like it would be constantly moving around and banging off the motor,does it ???

 

he said because it was in a bad sport for crashes and he thought it look like sh**

 

Got it I guess I just seem to overlook **** when I read. The wife says the same **** about me while she's talkin to me.

I ride an '02 and didn't know if there was a benifit to relocation. But I also have side fairings.

 

The gauge cluster is the same harness. I chopped the mounts off of it and zip-tied it to the upper tripple tree. The headlight is easy to wire up. I soldered some pins to the ends of the wires and plugged them into my existing headlight harness. Its a 5 minute job to wire them up. The connectors cost under a buck. As far as the mount for the headlight, it comes with some rubber straps that attach to the fork tubes. I did not use these because I needed more clearance for the gauges and I wanted the lights to be aimed correctly so a made up some mounts. I will post the pics of the mounts Tuesday evening when I get home. The turnsignals are screwed into the headlight.

 

The extension is ziptied so it doesnt bang around.

 

I just took the overflow bottle off.u don't need to have it,just make sure once in while open radiator and add some coolant if needed.and tip over sensor the easiest way is 2 drops of superglue on each side.no mess and easy.