The 905 cage only mounts in 3 places on each side. Both motor mounts and the tranny mount (which is in the way of my leg). The other mount is not a mount, its a bar that passes between the header and oil filter to the other side of the cage. Having the bar wrap under is basically the same thing as having it go between the headers except if its under the exhaust it will help to protect the exhaust should the bike slide into a curb or something. I'd say ur best bet would be to use both motor mounts with a two piece loop. Put two pieces of flat steel bolted together under the exhaust and weld each half of the loop to them. The u just unbolt the sliders and flange and it comes off.

 

like this

 

My camera isn't here right now but when I get it I'll post pics. I have a 91 F2 with custom cage with 2 huge bmx pegs that keeps every part of the bike off the ground. I will take pics of both sides and even put it down on the ground to show you that nothing hits.

 

oh i didnt know that bottom mount was like that.. that wouldnt be so bad, it'd keep the wrap around bar from crushing in at least.. i'll just have to look and see.. but what you said is the basic gist of what i'm gonna do, and i'll look and see if i cant figure how how to get that bottom mount bar cross brace thing, if i cant no biggie.. should hold up.. i'll definitely be testing it.

 

hey FHL



that thing? thought that might be the one you got, seeing as he lives in CO. that cage is FUGLY. i'm hoping i can make mine look a lil' more pimptastic then that and still be bulletproof.

 

i have a bender so i'll be able to get a little creative with it. *shrugs*

 

hey johnnygsxr, you know that you cant weld normal steel to stainless right?

youre gonna have to get all stainless and tig weld it.

and dont use a grade 8 or above bolt either, its too strong and something else will break before the bolt does, like motor mount. use a grade 6

 

u sure about the whole stainless deal? maybe i'm wrong, maybe it was cleared stainless or plated or something cause my friend had no problem welding to it. I'm going to be using grade 10, i believe fi uses grade 8 or 10. I still think the bolt will bend or break before my frame does.

Thanks anyways.

 

see if a magnet will stick to it. my header was stainless and it cracked, couldnt weld it with my mig, had to take it somewhere to have it tigged. i know you cant weld dissimilar metals. same with chromoly steel, ive tried to weld it and it wont penetrate the metal

 

this is exactly what my friend told me this morning when we were discussing it. he thinks it would be easy enough to imitate the bmx pegs with normal steel, and that way we wont be welding dissimilar metals together. i have a bad *** digital so i'll be taking lots of pics of the entire process. its ridiculous that there's only one maker for cages for the f2-f3, when its such a popular bike. :YEAH hopefully with jonny and i making our cages for our bikes, we'll give other f2-f3 owners a good idea of what they need to do to make their own cages.

 

Yeah that's my bike, believe me, nothing touches, it's just about perfect.

 

The bmx pegs are just steel, the must be either clear coated or nickel plated or something to get the shine. We noticed that where they've scraped the ground they've started to rust so obviously not stainless steel...

 

well this is my progress so far, i decided to do my cage a little differently, i mounted a bolt with two pieces of flat steel to the mounts for the center stand, and welded the steel bars to the bar that goes under the bike for more stability. it was very easy for me to make, granted i have a TON of tools and an entire metal working shop to play with.



i'll post up more pics tomorrow of the fully painted, installed finished product. i think it'll hold up very well, and i bent it so that i'm not gonna rub the cage unless i'm tryin to be Rossi or something, which i dont do.

 

That looks awsome man, exactly what i envisioned. Post up some more pics, especially what u did under the bike. Did u bend that pipe urself? Did you have a pipe bender?

Looks sweet man, Jon

 

actually dude, at first, i tried bending it with the pipe bender, and it looked like ****.. it was goofy lookin. but then i got frustrated and started playing around with the blow torch, and voila.. i got exactly the bends i wanted. worked great! i'm finishing up on the grinding and prepping the cage for paint, and i'll be sprayin the cage with some cheap *** 98 cent flat black spray paint. . i'll take a bunch of pics when i'm totally finished.


*some more thoughts. i thought about making a flat piece of steel and supporting it like you depicted in that first pic you made on the first page, but that was looking like it was gonna be a pain in the ***.. i think the way that i did it will end up being alot stronger, and shouldnt move much at all during slow stuff. i'm not entirely sure how well it'll hold up under a fast wreck, but there's not really any cage that would hold up perfectly going 50-60 mph anyway right. All in all, its not that hard to do, but if all you have is a welder, you probably wont be able to make it look exactly like i did. i do have a full array of metal working machinery afterall.

 

Sweet, i was trying to figure out how i was gonna make the bends on mine. I don't have a pipe bender but a friend said he coudl do it at work. But i do have a vice and a blow torch so maybe i'll give that a shot. What size pipe did u end up going with?

Nice job man, now u need to "test" it.

Jon

 

Heres another tip, measure the id of the peg u used. Go here http://www.mcmaster.com/ and look up "derlin" buy a rod with the same diameter as the inside of your peg (1.25 if u used a walmart peg). Get a foot or so. Once you get the rod, stick it in the peg and then cut it leaving about an inch sticking out past the end of the peg. Drill a hole threw the peg and rod and put a bolt threw it. The derlin won't dig into the concrete like the metal peg will so it won't jar it as much, it also won't mess up the end of your peg, that way you don't have to keep making cages every now and then. Derlin is the same thing that most $50 sliders are made out of, but on that site it cost about $4 a ft...

 

nice! i was wondering how i was gonna do that, you answered that question. Thanks! :YEAH

 

btw the tubing that goes under is 3/4. not really sure how strong it's gonna be, but 1" looked way too big. i think this will be good enough for me.

 

its DONE!! hooray! lol i got tired of waiting for the paint to cure, and decided to just throw it on anyway. so here's the final pics.







and this wouldnt have turned out nearly as cool without the help of my great (but slightly homo) friend ben.