Any airbox that has a crankcase vent hose hooked to it should be modded/re-routed . If you stunt it ,lay it over etc ...

 

so theoretically you just have to reroute the crankcase hose, but still the crankcase needs to be vented as omr said

the green hose is the crankcase hose and the orange hose splits in two and goes in the motor i guess

the red ones goes to the airbox and the black one stays there for outer ventilation
what do u think if i will take the green one and the orange one and where the orange splits in two - basically there is a t valve there, put a + valve and stick the crank case hose there

 

as i said before it is hard to tell from the pictures but as far as i can tell by looking at them i dont think you want to hook your crank case vent tube to the tubes that go to the carbs , if those two hoses go to the intake then you would be venting the crank case right to the combustion chambers and thats exactly what you are trying not to do...

 

Bump, hahaha, I was ready to do this after the first page.Read all 15, an if I **** this up, I will kick myself in the nuts. Its like a damn encyclopedia up in here. Thanks OMR for the tollerance., Now I just waiting for my 2nd idle screw to come in so I do both at one time. I did the tip sensor mod, is there anything else I should knock out of the way?

 

wire your fan so it can be turned on to stay running but if you forget to turn it on it will still come on at the factory setting , just run a switch to ground off the wire that goes to your thermal switch on your radiator , leave the wire hooked up to the thermal switch just tap into it ...

that way when you put the switch on the fan will stay on but if you forget you wont cook it ..

 

Thanks for the info OMR, much appreciate it.

 

I did this mod to my 01 f4i along with a oil change and sparkplugs.. now when i start the bike i hear almost like a knocking noise or the cylnder going up and down but then i thought maybe its just the noise that would normaly get muffled by the airbox?? and also ive yet to disconnect the pairvalve could that be it? the noise is constant while the bike is running. any info is appreciated!

 

if you havent disconected the pair valve then you are creating pressure in your crank case when the pair valve closes , did you read the thread at all ?

 

you can us the pair valve but you have to unplug it so it stays open

 

I guess i miss understood the thread.. get a little lost in such a wide spread thread..

Thank you for the quick answer though I hope this is the ticking and hopefully i didnt break anything

 

no the worst thing probably would just be a blown out gasket or a vacuum hose getting blown off

 

Could this be the cause of ticking im hearing?? I also over filled the oil a little like everyone says to do... I just bought the bike like 3 weeks ago and everytime i started it im pretty sure it didnt have the tick are f4is noisey like this maybe and im just over reacting?

 

unplug it and see if the tick goes away

 

true gonna try that in 10 min

 

ok i took the tank and airbox off again and disconnected it...i didnt start it yet but I have a question..

I read all 15 pages and i did like it said 1 and 2 to the T 4 into the bottom of the T.

Now my question is 4 comes out of the crank case and 1 and 2 come out of the engine also.. so where does it vent too? sorry if its been said already because i couldnt find it.

 

you didnt read the thread there are ports that go to the exhaust via reed valves that are under the covers where the top two hoses go and the reed valve only allow suction from the exhaust but dont allow pressure so this mod creates a vacuum in your crankcase , the easy way to see if you got i right is to take your oil filler cap off and cover it with your hand , you should feel suction on your hand while revving the bike

 

Thanks i appreciate it!

 

I got the mod down right but... valves are ticking so I'm gonna have to take care of that now, thanks for the help!

 

cam chain tensioners on f4i's also make a ticking noise when they go bad and are alot cheaper than a valve adjustment ..

easy way to tell if it's the cct is to hold the bike at about 7 thousand rpm in neutral and then let go of the throttle , as it idles down it will sound like bb's in a tin can ..

another common thing they do when they go bad is they will rattle real bad when you are cruising down the road at about 5 or 6 grand but if you go a little faster the noise will go away ..

 

im gonna try that 7k thing see what happens but it sounds like as i rev it the ticking gets faster with the rpm but its hard to tell ***** loud :O
id love for it to be on the cam chain tensioner