Here's whats involved. 10 minute easy job, makes a much cleaner idle, seems stronger. Definitely easier to adjust. The stock adjustment sucks for some reason.
Prop the front of the tank up, take the air filter off and its right there.

The little stopper screw that I'm holding gets taken out and replaced by any Honda idle screw. I used one off of a 92 F2- its plenty long. I put a little lube on the threads. The factory adjuster does it internally somehow and it makes the idle irregular and make the thing run real rich and bizzare. The new idle screw just cracks the throttle plates open just like if your opening it with the throttle.

 

nice job. Im hoping to get a f4i so I'll come back to this post. Thx

 

Add some hose into the picture and it makes it even easier to adjust with gloves on

https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/sho...ighlight=cable

Check out the pictures

 

good help boys

 

i turned my screw out yesterday and have been having a ***** of a problem getting it to go back in...did you all take the throttle bodies off to screw it back in ?

 

i just did this and i was doing everything i could to not have to take throttle boddies off cuz im lazy...287ridah-alex fished his hand and got that ***** up in there...

what i recommend is puttin a small piece of electrical tape over the spring and washer at the end of the idle cable so u dont loose those in the jungle of hoses down there.

next go in above the chain almost comming from the back of the bike with ur hand manunver it all the way to where it screws in(called the wax unit) its pretty much a shot in the dark but if u can get ur finger on the hole where it screws in chances are ull get it...took me 3 times of ****ing around to figure out to go from the back rather from the side where the original cable goes....

its really handy to have a honda manual that way u can see the wax element and what u are feeling when u are doing it

does that help?? lol

 

and since ur this far. cuz i did this with tank and airbox off, u might as well add that second idle cable and do some ****!!!!

 

i installed a secound idle cable the way described....
the first one fell out while riding... took forever to getg it back in...
an now it does NOTHING when i skrew it in or out an if i unskrew 2nd cable till it doesnt affect idle it has a high idle an stock adjuster does nothing... anyone know how to fix this?
do i need to rebuild the wax unit?

 

Bump. Do this... It works, and takes 30-45 min start to finish

 

the stock idle (called the fast idle wax unit) controls the air to fuel mix,,,so when you unscrew it it throws off the throttle bodies,and when replacing the stock one your supposed to adjust the throttle bodies(valve adjustment),,, had my go bad had a shitty shop fix it(the didnt and told me they did) cause me to crash bend a clipon and rotor,,,,due to the fact that when they removed the throttle bodies they spunn the throttle cables(twisted)and the bike was running on 3 cylinders,vac lines wer kris- crossed, soo i was just going around a turn and the bike went wide open i hit a curb and went flying though the air.........................

moral......fix it yourself,or have someone who knows what they are doing,,and i mean----really knows........thank you for listening


as standupnfall would say............post counts a climbing

 

[quote=martino;2313715]Here's whats involved. 10 minute easy job, makes a much cleaner idle, seems stronger. Definitely easier to adjust. The stock adjustment sucks for some reason.
Prop the front of the tank up, take the air filter off and its right there.

The little stopper screw that I'm holding gets taken out and replaced by any Honda idle screw. I used one off of a 92 F2- its plenty long. I put a little lube on the threads. The factory adjuster does it internally somehow and it makes the idle irregular and make the thing run real rich and bizzare. The new idle screw just cracks the throttle plates open just like if your opening it with the throttle.[/quote

Thanks fo da info:YEAH

 

wow, lol, BEFORE you do this mid, make your idle perfect 1300 stock and tuck the stock adjuster away and forget about it, then put the new one in, if you up the idle with the new adjuster, then mess with the stock one, you will mess up the idle air mix and youll be all screwed up, the stock one just bypasses the butterflies using the airbleeds, the mod moves the butterlies instead, which is better cuz thats the closest thing to actually twistin the throttle tube, okie dokie?

 

i did this mod, and when i started the bike the rpms went to like 9 grand. I turned the new idle cable to bring it down to like 2. But now when i turn it nothing happens and it stays at stock idle. Is it possible that i turned it to much and it fell out.

 

i had to cut the end of the new idle cable down some so it would fit right

 

my stock idle fell out a few weeks ago. the bike seams to run well. i dont even know where to start to put it back in. i know alot of you guys say leave it in and leave it alone or else itll run like crap. but mine seams to run well. should i not worry about it?

 

well i screwed the new cable in as far as the stock one was at. But then when i started the bike the rpms were hecka high then it went down when i turned it but then it did not do anything after that

 

does anyone have any detailed instructions on where and how to put the stock f4i idle cable back in?>

 

there is no stock idle cable for an f4i.