Towlieee

Blah blah blach wrong forum shut up this site is dead anyways

Boring **** up top, important **** in BOLD BELOW
For my f4i ignition, information is spotty at best (yes I've googled it, it seems no one talks about actual technical **** anymore, everyone's too zoned out on facebook and snap chat instead of doing brain learning stuff)

So this clapped out f4i I picked up, was wired to run on a toggle switch, it still had a half *** busted *** ignition hidden and taped up under the gas tank with the factory diode setup going on. I bought a new ignition on ebay ($30 for 2 keys, ignition, gas cap, and seat lock which I never use), and it turns out the ignition they sent has no diode, derp

So, what is the best/cheapest/MOST IMPORTANLY RELIABLE way to get 9v to the pink wire. I was considering just soldering the factory diode off the old ignition in line with the pink wire, but while I'm here fixing this fucked up wiring job this f4i has, I'd rather get a new diode/resistor setup so I don't have a weak point that could fail and kill me.

What I'm wondering, is what is the tolerance for the pink wire. I always hear "9 volts", but how much can it vary? I mean clearly, during cranking, the bike could drop below 10volts, and at full charge high rpm it could be over 14volts. So how far can I vary from 9volts to the pink wire and still have the bike run?

And what is the prefered setup? REsistor? Diode? Both? Anyone that actually knows anything care to chime in? I have 20 years of education, I graduated tenth grade twice. I mean, I can use google and get the proper resistor value to keep me as close to 9v as possible, but, I want the most reliable setup possible, don't want my bike shutting off mid wheelie, or mid chase, or not being able to start if my battery is low!

Mr Weber

I am not for sure on what it takes, I do remember reading multiple threads on this subject over the years between here and on stuntride, so maybe keep searching? The ignition you bought, what was if off of? How did it have no diode?? If it was me, I would either just run the ignition as it was from the factory, with the correct wiring and key or go with a keyswitch elimination harness. In my opinion taking someone elses word, off the internet, might not be the safest or actual correct way it should be done. As you said, I would also hate to see the bike die or fry the wiring harness and cause more problems down the road. The sic shop sells a nice harness, made from a well know manufacture, that I think is a safe bet. This is just my opinion, here is a link to what I was talking about http://thesicshop.com/index.php?main...oducts_id=1033

Towlieee

Well whoever wired it before, took the bottom of the factory ignition off, and had it just taped up and sitting near the engine, ghetto as ****.

So it still had its diode in the little bottome portion that they wired up. The kit I bought said it was for an f4i, I mean, it bolts right up, plugs right in, but no diode, If I recall correctly, I'm like 99% sure this ignition would work fine on a 600rr (no diode I think, yet same plug)

anyways, for anyone else in the future who needs the info!!!!!!!!!!

I took their ghetto setup, busted out the multimeter, and a power source, and found out that you need a setup that drops the voltage close to 4 volts! The factory setup is just a diode, a diode that clearly has nearly a 4v drop across it. So you need a zener diode that has a 4v drop.

This is what I measured with my multimeter. Btw, to test a zener diode, you MUST have a load on it. Without a load, the zener diod only showed like a 0.8v drop, with a 20ma load it showed a 4v drop.

12.06v source dropped to 8.20v = 3.86v drop
13.85v source dropped to 9.76v = 4.09v drop

All I had recalled was back in the day people talking about using a resistor, and needing 9v, but the fact the bike operates anywhere from 11v to 15v technically speaking, what u really need is a 4v drop for the pink wire! I'm not positive that a resistor alone would provide a reliable 4v drop across that voltage difference. I'm not an electrical engineer, im a HS drop out, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

loko

I think you need 5v on the pink wire but I would have to find a manual to be sure. If you cant find a manual let me know and I will try to look it up and send the schematic to you somehow. But if the original is there and working just solder it into your new setup and it should be fine. If it’s not right it will not run. Without 5v on the pink wire you will not have spark.
Hope this helps!