TS definitely aren't bad cages, I just think they would be way stronger with a cross bar, or on the f4i utilizing the extra motor mounts
I like TS design for the fact the lower part of the cage hits first, making the force 'bend' the cage and bolts in a downwards force.. then it hit's the spring loaded part, making the force push more upwords, so it helps spread the direction the impact hits the bike..

I kind of copied their design for my cage, except added an extra mount. Lower part of my cage impacts first then the slider, got my sliders made by a friend for free, and only like $25 on steel

 

shut up buy a tygershark and never think about another cage again cause youll never need 1!!!

 

impaktech

 

atown is winning

 

I'm a little late on this. But do you know your physics? Because from what I can see that design isn't very good. What's the spring rate on the slider spring? How is the slider meshed with the spring and the cage is there a separate cylinder? You mentioned things needing to give, yes and no. Some give can promote a break. Quick, but probably not very good, example; if you don't torque your cage down properly, the flex and give on the bolts could break bolts more often that normally wouldn't break because of added leverage and the bolt acting as a fulcrum causing a snap. So how does this design work to ensure that once the slider hits the ground it is actually effectively absorbing energy and diverting it away from the motor mount? After all is said and done the cage only has two mount points. Which if my knowledge of physics, thermodynamics and mechanics is correct you would be increasing strain on those points by lacking a cross member, like most/all(I'm sure there are possibly some I haven't seen) the other cages have. Only way I can think of to counter act that with a sprung slider is to have a high spring rate(super stiff) spring behind the slider. Also just sticking a spring in the cage wouldn't achieve that. So how is the spring setup on this thing to make it so great. I'm not being a smartass, I'm being serious. I want to know because I haven't seen anything about it and it seems like a gimmick to me as well. I would like to see/know how the spring is utilized.


To the OP, you can get some cheap extended frame sliders like you see on my bike in front of the cage. They were like $40 on ebay and survived teaching one of my Ex's how to ride. Only thing that got messed up the times she dropped it was one time the mirror got a scuff, the derlin pucks got scuffed, and one other time it bent the mount bolt so I had to make a trip to lowes and spend ~$0.80 for the bolt. If you don't want to go that route racerailz would probably be the next best option. Then A-town because I doubt you want to cut your plastics up to mount the cage like you would a SI cage, since you want to keep it clean looking anyway. Powers you also wouldn't have to cut but I'm pretty sure it would drag.

 

omg....

 

are you serious with that picture?

 

if your worried about drilling a hole in your plastics you should not be buying a cage.

 

Someone learning to ride and just low siding at low speeds isn't a good representation of a crash. I've seen people low side with plastic sliders at 35mph and not break the slider lol

a drop from 12 is a better test of a cage/slider

+1

 

**** I hear you on that.... but no reason to hate on people for wearing bs/other stuff..
Of course if they are a squid, call them out..

But not everyone rocking bs/icon or whatever is a nut swinging squid

I buy anything I think looks tight and is a good deal!

 

LOL wrong thread

 

I agree, but he seems to only want the cage to keep his bike looking good encase his girl drops it trying to learn to ride. I'd still just go with racerailz or extended sliders.

Towlieee, just giving him info. He said he wants to teach his girl to ride and wants to protect his bike. The sliders would be fine. I don't think his girl will be 12 0'clocking and pancaking the bike. Though she might so who knows...?

 

+1 That is what I said earlier. This thread turned into a cage contest though.

I think it depends on the teacher, if you suck at teaching she will still wreck a tank. If your bike means that much to you pretty, get her a beater ninja 250 and teach her on that.

I agree that he doesn't need to make his bike stunt ready just to teach someone. Tell her to take it slow and walk/run along side the bike to catch/support her. If she can ride a bicycle or dirt bike you should be cake.

Bottom line, guy doesn't want to stunt or teach his girl to stunt so a cage is overkill.

Just get a FI cage if you NEED a cage and save yourself some dough. It will give you protection enough to teach/learn to ride. Don't stunt with it though because all it will take is one good pancake to snap motor mounts if your bolts are over torqued.

Rebel 250s and Ninja 250s don't even have cages in the MSF course so I think you're going overkill.

 

beardo cage hands down, discution ended!close this thread!

 

your cage is def. strong but it and your bike are both eyesores...lol....i heard it actually brought the property values on your street down..

 

yeah give bruce at tyger shark a call he will hook u up. He has a street cage and a stunt cage. Little bit of a wait because he makes them to order. But i got the street cage and it wont scrape. And i have dropped the bike a couple times and it held up great. Good pricing to. I had mine sent to me just bare metal and poweder coated it myself. looks really good on the bike

 

i just ordered off the stuntaid website

 

your a dumb *** man...my friend had a tygershark and was all about too..he bust his stator cover twice...then got different cage....that **** is weak! and i run a FI

 

ya my bike looks like crap...not everyone is a glamor stunter like you dick! besides i make my bike look good....hahahaha

 

A-TOWN CAGES ARE THE SICKEST THING OUT THERE!!!!!!...wouldn't go with anything else!!!!......nothing compares and nothing comes close. I yet to see any problems in any way shape or form with their cages.