Does anybody think that the sliders may be to long, creating greater leverage on the bolts and motormounts? I would think the length of them makes it the first spot of impact taking the initial and hardest blow. Would it be a good idea to cut the ends down closer to the pipe going across the case. This way there would be a better chance that more of the cage will involved during the point of impact

 

if you were to do that, the lever and clip-ons would bend and break a lor easier, because they are going to hit the ground hard. Also, the reason that the sliders have a delron tip on them is so the delron (which gives and can be ground away) takes most of the impact.

the thing i think most people forget is that on NO CAGE does it say, "nothing is going to break" or "the cage is indestructable". It is there to provide protection for the motor in crashes. and from the sound of it, it did its job, but at the cost of cracking the frame.

and like jethro says, if you have a beat up bike anyway, why would you worry about one more weld? Ride it until it is dead. Again, this is only my opinion.

 

well, i guess i was misunderstood..i'm not complaining, it did it's job but it just tore up something i didn't want to screw with.

david, do you think running weaker bolts and having those break would be worth it? i figured they would take a lot of impact but then break causing less impact on teh rest of the bike, and them being the weak point in teh cage and not my frame being the weak point. just a thought. I'm trying to figure out a way to make it so something breaks that isn't as expensive as snapping a motor mount. replacing a bolt only takes a couple minutes verses getting time to weld this.

also, i forgot to answer, this was at a local cruise in spot with tons of imports around and they were all wanting to see some stuff....most don't know anything about bikes, let alone that people can do what we do with them. I was doing good until that last one, it was the "i'll do one more before i head home" deal and it screwed me.

lifting with my back...ya, i know i'm a bad boy, both my parents are chiropractors so i hear all about it.

and yes, very violent crash, it came down and just slammed strait on the right side. I think it walked away pretty good, i wasn't mad at it, i just gotta do some re-engineering to fit my needs.

 

binder, changing the bolts might work for you. If you do that, you may want to carry spares with you at all times though, just in case one breaks and you are a good ways from home.

But you have to look at both sides of it. It could work wonderfully, and save your motor mounts and frame, and all you would have to do is replace the bolts if they break.

But on the other hand, the bolt could break, causing the cage to move out of position and or rip it completely off of the bike, and then your motor is left exposed. The choice is up to you though.

 

I think the bottomline is this.
1. Even with the cage there is a very good possibility that the frame mounts are at least gonna get tweaked. That being said if the impact is great enough to actually do this then there is no doubt that without the cage the engine, frame, and alot of other things are going to be really phucked up = $$$$$$$$

The cage helps for sure but like DPOB said it aint meant to protect your bike from all damage.
Cheers
SK

 

.....I've been thinking about this topic alot lately(mostly cuz I crashed a 12 and broke my block in 2 places) and the one thing I keep coming back to is "If I wouldn't have crashed then it wouldnt be busted". Bottom line is,we have noone to blame but ourselves. No cage,no sliders,no anything is gonna protect our bikes from the **** we put them through. ...........just my opinion though. later, Paw Paw

 

Not complaining about the cage here. Just trying to figure out a possible solution to avoid this problem if there is one. I think everybody will agree here that if it comes down to running a cage or not, we would most def use the cage. I feel that if there is a way to improve something, then go for it, if not then it was worth a try.

 

sucks

 

hey binder, i was thinking, dont run a lower grade bolt. bad idea. the cage will fail for sure. give me a call on my cell 469-323-4338 or pm me your number and i'll call you.

 

No problem man. I just used Vegas Video 3.0, did a little bit of editing to slow it down and converted it. It's a great program. You can probably find it on Kazaa.

 

thanks alex, i'm getting Vegas 4.0 but i need the code for it. I'll try 3 if you have the code.

and ya, again to make it clear i'm not blaming anything here, just trying to think of a way to damage something else during the crash taht is easier to replace than a snapped motor mount and frame.

something hasto give and i figured bolts yes, that way it takes the impact to a certain degree but then it fails causing the cage to break and then ya, my cases will get banged up but they won't take the full force of the crash. basically to make the cage slow the force down and reduce the injury. when i had the long sliders on there that's what it did. i dropped a 12 just like this, it bent the bolt and snapped the slider and my case got some rash and foot peg and bent my clutch lever, but it didn't hurt anything else. so teh slider took some of the force away so it minimized impact and i had to buy a new slider.

anyways, david, i'm going to call you and see what you have for me. i appreciate all you guys's comments and help with this.

 

I had a friend crash from a 12 on his cage and nothing happened. the difference betweeen some of the cages is that they connect at more points and more solid points on the bike so the stess is distributed more evenly around the bike then just at one point per side. my thoughts on the matter...

 

I have the solution.. How about taking an FI cage and whacking the sliders off and welding some rear suspension springs from an 84 ford LTD on there. HAHA! You know it would work! They would bend and flex and look ghetto as hell..

Somebody give me two dollars and 47 cents for a taco and a 40.

 

i just talked to david from POB and he explained everything to me. Very smart guy and i'm glad he was willing to spend some time on the phone with me. I'm gonna get my bike welded and put normal bolts back in it.

although i might still do the drill it through and put a nut on teh backside cause i don't want to re-tap the threads.

 

Explain why not the lower grade bolts?

 

ya, basically the right side motor mount ont eh frame on 929's is weak..you need to strengthen it up.

I still don't know about drilling it all the way through though. I'm gonna call tim barnes and ask him about that before i do it. he knows a lot about 929's and mounts.

also, david, i don't know if you remember but we were the bikes right next to you at the stuntlife show. I'm on taht orange and blue bike

 

Damn that was a pretty bad crash.

 

yaya, i know how to wreck a bike

anyone want to help me on slow wheelies...i'm having problems with brake control.

 

Why don't we see any rubber-mounted crash cages on the market?

 

Hey binder929rr I learned break control on my xr 50 before I ever did anything on my 929. There pretty much the same just the balance point on the 929 is way up there and disc brakes are much better than drum brakes.