Let me first say that I'm no master mechanic, but I have torn the EX motor apart a few times.

Josh, running a bike without oil can lead to numerous problems and if you hear engine noise... that's a big problem. A clinking noise can be completely different from a slapping noise.

Clinking - There's only so many internal parts that can make this noise. Valves and rocker arms are common problems. They're located on the top of the motor, so take a listen to the bike and try to find exactly where the noise is coming from.

Slapping - The only thing that could cause a slapping noise would be the cam chain. It's located on the clutch side of the motor and runs the length of the cyclinder head.

However ..... a blown motor can make all these noises and still run. If your rings are shot, the bike may still fire, but be on it's way to burning up. I managed to limp mine home for almost a mile before it finally gave out. And if you were still able to pull 5th gear wheelies with yours low on oil, tells me that your EX may still be okay, but could probably use some rings down the road.

Soooooooo.... from what I've concluded to from listening to your explaination of the problem, I think you may have bent your rocker arms or worse... your valves. But I want to take you step by step through some problem solving.

First - Run a compression test. The right way... get a compression tester. Unfortunatly, I bought one and found it very hard to get it into the plug hole on the EX because of the tight space. So just start the bike and place your hand over the exhaust. Does it push your hand away like normal? Then try starting the bike without the plug... place a finger down in the hole and feel how much it's "sucking". Try using your Z for comparision. If you don't think it has good compression... you need a rebuild and new rings.... maybe more.

Second - Common engine noise can come from bent valves and rocker arms. Let's hope it's not bent valves, because you'll have to remove the engine to repair the problem. But here's an easy way to find out by checking your rocker arms.
- remove the gas tank and plastic sheild below it.
- remove the two caps on the magneto side of the engine.
* The smaller cap is a "peep" hole to adjust timing
* The larger cap is a 17mm bolt that turns your crank
- turn your crank counter clockwise until you see a "T" mark through the "peep" hole. There's a little notch inside that peep hole that you need to line up the "T" marking with. This means that your engine is at "TDC" or Top Dead Center. However, there is two TDC's on all 4 strokes.... a compression and exhaust TDC. The compression TDC means the piston is at the top of the cylinder getting ready to compress down and make power. The exhaust TDC means the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder getting ready to push up and release all the burned gas. You want to have the engine at the compression TDC in order to adjust your rocker arms. Here's how to tell....
- remove the 4 rocker arm covers located on top of the motor.
- with the timing mark at the "T" position, you should be able to "jiggle" those rocker arms up and down about a "**** hair"... for lack of a better term. If you cannot move the rocker arms at all, the motor is at the wrong TDC and you need to rotate the crank one full turn until that "T" marking appears through the peep hole again. Always remember to rotate counter clockwise. If you still can't move the rocker arms at all... they're bent and you need to adjust em. However, because your motor still runs, but makes noise, I'm guessing you'll find a lot of slop in the rocker arms when you find the correct TDC.
- using a 10mm wrench and flat head screw driver, back off the retaining nut on top of the rocker arm and screw down the adjustment bolt.(the picture showing rocker arms is from an older 4 stroke with only 1 rocker arm on each side. The EX motor has two on the carb side and two on the header side.)
- once you've got the adjustment bolt tightened down all the way, back it off just a hair and re-tighten the retaining nut. Now you should be able to only move that rocker arm up and down about a "**** hair"... just enough to feel it clicking when you jiggle it. The proper adjustment is like .400 using a feeler gauge, but those dont work well because of the access you have through those 4 holes on top of the motor.
- repeat these steps with all 4 rocker arms.
- replace the timing and crank caps as well as the rocker arm caps.
- place your gas tank on top of the frame and hook up the fuel line to the carb. (don't bolt the shield and tank on yet until you've ran the motor and made sure you fixed the noise)

Now I hope you remember to fill the bike with oil before starting all this! I don't think these steps are too difficult for you to perform. Just take your time and don't get freaked out. If you have questions... just call and I'll do my best to walk you through. I hope this helps... sorry for the long post.

-Drew

 

now that's an explanation.

Thanks a ton Drew, Like i said last night.

gonna crack into it tonight to see what's up.

 

Holy tips 101 from Drew... awesome.

~Jared

 

That is the best post that I have ever seen on this part of SL EVER!!!

Flip

 

uhhh... wow... thanks for the props guys. But I'm only trying to help out my fellow stunter!

 

More information in that 1 post than you get in your first year at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute. Bravo.

 

You type nice


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