Well gentlemen, I tried changing the spark plugs in my bike today so I could ride, and two of them came out fine, but the other two were seized up TIGHT! Evidently I didn't use anti-seize on them when I installed them! I thought I was ****ed! One of two things was sure to happen. Either the spark plugs would snap off, leaving just the threaded portion stuck in the cylinder head. Or the plugs would come out, but take all the threads in the head out with it. So I resorted to pouring WD-40 into the problematic spark plug holes, and let that soak for about a half hour. Then I tried turning them, and they were still damn tight........they would turn only if I put a lot of force on the ratchet. Long story short, I kept working the ratchet back and forth, to work the WD-40 into the threads, and FINALLY they both came out with no damage, and I could finally breath again. Bottom line is don't forget anti-seize when replacing spark plugs. I have been using it for years, but somehow I didn't apply it to the last set of plugs I put in my bike. I will use it religiously from now on. Gotta thank the WD-40 for bailing my *** out too!

 

WD-40...aint you ever heard of PB BLASTER..now thats the **** right dere

 

Glad everything worked out for you. But my God man!!!! Everyone knows to use "anti-seize"!!!! Are you stupid!!??!!

(seriously, i've never heard if the stuff before this thread)

 

ive never used anti sieze in the plugs... usally i just dont crank them down that tight,,., 1/4 turn past finger tight...

 

And thats todays Ninjadude tech tip.

Ninjadude would like to invite you to to read his new book intitled
Boring stories that only Timmy30 could top.

 

**** you Kyle! You ride 90 miles in one day and you think your god!

Marty, it prolly wasn't from overtightening, aluminum is weird cause parts that are threaded into it can seize for no apparent reason. Out of all the plugs I have changed in my day, I have never had this happen before today. But I know it can without anti-seize.

 

was the mtotr hot? Supposed to do it on a warm head. makes the al a little softer and loosens things up. Yeh PB blaster is the shizit that stuff works awsome. Aluminum and other metals love to bond to eachother. I believe its something like aluminum is so soft it will actually work into the "dips and valleys" of the other metal against it. I dunno we nnet over it in a metalurgy class I was in but I slept through half of it.

 

I say that we "seize" this thread. Who's with me??

 

Who is this God fellow that you speak of?

Yeah I am happy about getting 90 miles in, this was the first time I have ever taken the bike out since I bought it.

 

"CARPE THREADEM" Seize the thread

 

bwaaa!! like the pizza roll story?!!!!!!!!

 

I wanted to do it with a warm head, but it wouldn't start cause the plugs were fouled. What is PB blaster? Where do you get it?

 

I like to do "it" with a warm head as well!

Are we talking about the same thing here?

 

Same thing i was thinking.




Timmy is a retard

 

Anymore lip outta you cats and I'll roll both your pizzas!!

 

Is that anything like tossing their salad?

 

There goes Timmy getting all gay again.

 

what an awesome thread-------about anti seize and how gay timmy is?? :-)


dan always cranks **** down tight as hell....finally bit him in the ***....dummy

 

I would have to add... use the silver anti seize vs. the gold.... silver is high temp

also, I work on aluminum dies for plastic thermo forming and they have steel bolts and from what I have learned is: you want the aluminum cold vs warm or hot... aluminum expands when warm, so by warming the motor you would cause the head to expand and tighten up on the plug...

 

pb blaster try auto zone or fleet.... can't member where I got it last...it is an AWSOME loosning agent rusty bolts, corrosion **** like that....and just my plugs "sticken" really got nuthin to do with how tight they are alluminum does sum wierd **** some times when against other metal...o yeah and what corners said to cold is better