Yeah, I use the silver stuff.

Is there anymore puns you guys are gonna think of for this fine anti-seize thread?

 

vin 929 you got that **** right. i work at o'reilly auto.... that **** is bad ***.

 

Ummmm.... I uhhhhhh... was leaking some "silver stuff" and the doctor gave me some anti seize antibiotics.

that sucked

 

WEAK Timmy

Is this where your split personality chimes in?

 

when I put my plug (or bolt) into holes I use lubrication to prevent it from getting stuck when I pull it out....and once again it swells or expands with warmth (from friction) so removal is easier when its cold or not quite so expanded...that being said I would STRONGLY recomend HARDENED bolts they seam to do the job better... just ask your plug recepter she'll tell ya

 

Vin wins.

Timmy sucks.

 

In Timmy's case He will tell ya

 

But everyone knows that when the hardened bolt is no where to be found the plug recepter replaces it with something electricaly charged (spark plug). So make sure your recepters gap is still within tolerance when you get home from a long weekend at the races.


Did that make sence?

 

And sometime to make it easier to slip the plug in, you'll want to lick the exhaust pipe.
And it's a lot easier when you take all the bodywork off before you begin.

 

yes sometimes when the "hole" is vapor locked or has a "flow problem" it is nice to go around to the exhaust and put your plug there too


and yes EASIER with the body work off but *** on now we've all gotten impatient or been in a hurry to go ride and either went forward with the job around or in between the body work... and in sum extreme cases cracked the body work in our hurry to move or remove it to get the necesary access to the area in need of attention

these are MUCH better now

 

if you *** home to find tolerances out of spec.... that usually means some else has been out poundin on your machine worse than you do and you may have to "tune it up" .... or if its to tore up and beat to **** just put the thing in the bone yard and go find yourself a newer (or older in some cases) BETTER model that fits your particular riding style.... you gotta have a machine that takes your "imputs" (into corners cough cough) and gives you alotta feed back in the front and rear end so you don't get a nasty high or low side..... and lets not forget the worst problen..."pre ignition"
that can damage your crank and a whole lotta other things internally

 

And sometimes when your really workin' the hole and not being careful, you'll end up with a "mini bike" on the way. That's when you have to take a sledge hammer to the engine to get the "mini bike" outta there.

too much?............sorry

 

you dont want too old of a model though cause then the bags drag on the road, shes loud as hell. constantly leaking wierd fluids, never wants to start up on the first try, way overpriced, and is always in the shop! now i myself perfer a newer type, smooth lines, nice curves, sweet smell, screams when ya hit the gas and begs to be driven!

 

yeah but some of the older models are a lil top heavy...me likey :boobies:

 

Yeah but sometimes you can steal an older model with lots of accessories and if you ride it quietly the true owner will never know you've been railing his ride. The older models are harder to start and may smoke a lil but once you get some fresh fluids in er she'll run like a top.

Don't forget:
1. If you can't get er started choke er!
2. Make sure you clean you tool and bearings before you put them away.
3. When lubing your ride to much is better than not enough!
4. If it spits and sputters send it down the road!

 

Kyle, you are wise beyond your years.