View Poll Results: What kind of OIL??
Full synthetic
116
56.31%
Semi-synthetic
49
23.79%
Mineral, non synthetic
36
17.48%
Other (Explain)
5
2.43%
Voters: 206. You may not vote on this poll
Oil!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,868
From: Anywhere wheelies happen
Re: Oil!
"Second number is for boiling temps"
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
Yes really..
The first weight is its rated weight at 0c or 32f... The second number is what it thickens to at 100c or 212f..
Now of course, heat makes it thinner. But thats what the numbers mean, freezing and boiling..
at least thats what I learned in all my shop classes
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,868
From: Anywhere wheelies happen
Re: Oil!
man I don't care what oil a person uses, but don't use fram filters!
they are JUNK! Absolute complete garbage!
I personally sun super tech filters, I"ve cut one apart and compared it to a honda filter, appears to be exactly the same.
And super tech filters are produced by the same company that makes K&N filters
they are JUNK! Absolute complete garbage!
I personally sun super tech filters, I"ve cut one apart and compared it to a honda filter, appears to be exactly the same.
And super tech filters are produced by the same company that makes K&N filters
cereal killa
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,352
From: N.S Kanata
Re: Oil!
I heard fram is junk and have had alot of issues with quality....filters collapse inside and don't actually "filter" oil they just let it pass w/o filtering anything. also heard of people having clutch plate problems when going to some other oils....slipping etc....i go conventional 10-40 and keep it changed on the regular.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 699
From: North pole
Re: Oil!
i don't believe the that fram is crap, just because people say they are, maybe in the past they had cardboard endcaps, but i took one apart and it has good design and it's well made. metal endcaps and good quality flow back and overpressure valve.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,868
From: Anywhere wheelies happen
Re: Oil!
Well you risk your bike to save 30 cents then..
But when you can go to any automotive/motorcycle/atv forum and most people say fram is crap, I would stick away..
I hear the same **** on all forums, so why risk it??
If you wanna save money, get anything cheap but a frame.. Supertech filters are made by the same manufacturer as K&N filters, and they run about $2.50, so I personally run super tech.
cereal killa
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,352
From: N.S Kanata
Re: Oil!
good job....you have to break in anyengine with conventional then introduce synthetic cause you have to change the il really frequently to get all the bits the filter doesn't catch etc....i used to put magnets and drop my pans sometimes or get the filters and slam a huge magnet onto it...change the oil every 1k. then after about 5k of that do a few regular oil changes and intro the syn.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,868
From: Anywhere wheelies happen
cereal killa
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,352
From: N.S Kanata
Re: Oil!
the toleranceS in new engines are so small ya need really thin oil.... 
word
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,444
From: virginia
Re: Oil!
Yes really..
The first weight is its rated weight at 0c or 32f... The second number is what it thickens to at 100c or 212f..
Now of course, heat makes it thinner. But thats what the numbers mean, freezing and boiling..
at least thats what I learned in all my shop classes
The first weight is its rated weight at 0c or 32f... The second number is what it thickens to at 100c or 212f..
Now of course, heat makes it thinner. But thats what the numbers mean, freezing and boiling..
at least thats what I learned in all my shop classes
if it thins out as it heats...then why is the second number bigger if thats its heated weight? that makes no sense to me
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,868
From: Anywhere wheelies happen
Re: Oil!
If it didn't thicken up from the chemicals in it, then it would get too thin, and not lubricate at higher temps.
However it thickens slightly to help make up for the fact it's hot
Most modern motor oils are formulated from various grades of oil so the oil will have the best characteristics of both thick and thin viscosity oils. Multi-viscosity oils flow well at low temperature for easier starting yet retain enough thickness and film strength at high temperature to provide adequate film strength and lubrication.
A thin oil such as a straight 10W or even a 20W oil designed for cold weather use would probably not provide adequate lubrication for hot weather, high speed driving. Likewise, a thicker high temperature oil such as SAE 30 or 40 would probably become so stiff at sub-zero temperatures the engine might not crank fast enough to start.
Multi-viscosity grade oils have a wide viscosity range which is indicated by a two-number rating. Popular multi-viscosity grades today include 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50. The first number with the "W" refers to the oil's cold temperature viscosity, while the second number refers to its high temperature viscosity.
A thin oil such as a straight 10W or even a 20W oil designed for cold weather use would probably not provide adequate lubrication for hot weather, high speed driving. Likewise, a thicker high temperature oil such as SAE 30 or 40 would probably become so stiff at sub-zero temperatures the engine might not crank fast enough to start.
Multi-viscosity grade oils have a wide viscosity range which is indicated by a two-number rating. Popular multi-viscosity grades today include 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50. The first number with the "W" refers to the oil's cold temperature viscosity, while the second number refers to its high temperature viscosity.
Last edited by Towlieee; Jun 10, 2009 at 01:53 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Anywhere wheelies happen
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