View Poll Results: What kind of OIL??
Full synthetic
116
56.31%
Semi-synthetic
49
23.79%
Mineral, non synthetic
36
17.48%
Other (Explain)
5
2.43%
Voters: 206. You may not vote on this poll
Oil!
#41
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by nasty6r
i run 20-50 spectrum from a kawasaki dealer which is 16.00 for 4 quarts which, will be enough to do an oil change :YEAH i'm -1 +12 on my 01' 6r and it seems to work just fine. you want the 20-50 because 5-50 is real thin and 10-50 is better, but for stunting use 20 because of the breakdown point or temp, this weight will be a little grogier starting, but offers more consistancy with lubricating when rinning at 12 o'clock temps. it's all about protection against thermal breakdown. :YEAH
~james
~james
I would recommend 5w40. The first number is the weight when starting up. You want it to be thin so it flows faster when you start your bike. 90% of damage happens at startup. The 2nd number 40 is the viscosity at operating temps. So 5/40 is actually better than 20/50. 20/50 is not good for high compression motors. 20/50 is also to thick at startup.
#42
Re: Oil!
Didn't read this through, but just wanna say that good motorcycle oils have contain zinc. This helps to prevent seizure at metal to metal contact when oil pressure is compromized. normal motorcycle oils have 0.13%, some race motorcycle oils have over 0.20% zinc.
some manufacturers use some other substances, but zinc is common. Automotive oils don't contain any zinc, usually because they have to meet environmental values.
JT
some manufacturers use some other substances, but zinc is common. Automotive oils don't contain any zinc, usually because they have to meet environmental values.
JT
#43
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by boostn
I would recommend 5w40. The first number is the weight when starting up. You want it to be thin so it flows faster when you start your bike. 90% of damage happens at startup. The 2nd number 40 is the viscosity at operating temps. So 5/40 is actually better than 20/50. 20/50 is not good for high compression motors. 20/50 is also to thick at startup.
#44
Re: Oil!
"Second number is for boiling temps"
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
#45
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by Jaket
"Second number is for boiling temps"
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.
#46
Re: Oil!
well with my expierence I used mobil 1 full synthetic car oil with my first engine and I got 4 months of riding out of it before it blew, now I'm on my second blown engine and I used nothing but Motul 5100 ester synthetic blend and I got a year and half out of it. and I didn't have the big sprocket with the first motor so the streetriding I did with the sprocket and second engine was spinning crazy RPMS the whole time. so from what I have gone through Motorcycle oil is the only way to go. I also noticed that the shifting with the car oil was really notchy and with motorcycle oil it was allways a lot smother
#47
Re: Oil!
I Sell Oil For A Chevron Jober In Socal Bottom Line Is Automotive Oils Dont Have Friction Modifiers For Wet Clutches Motorcycle Oils Do. And Motorcycles Have A Stronger Aditive Package Do To The Added Stress Thats put on these engines.
Last edited by Scott-; 07-13-2006 at 11:35 AM.
#50
Re: Oil!
i run yamalube and yamafilter
i change it every 1000-1500 miles and crossthread the oil pan everytime.
but i found a company who makes self taping oil pan bolts. they are the **** i live by them
i change it every 1000-1500 miles and crossthread the oil pan everytime.
but i found a company who makes self taping oil pan bolts. they are the **** i live by them
#51
Re: Oil!
i used mobil 1 in my bike and the clutches started slipping...nothing but the cheap stuff for me now...works great..regular 10w-40..as long as it doesnt have the energy saving crap you are good to go...
#52
Re: Oil!
I run Shell "Rotella T" its made for heavy duty diesel trucks. I have been using it for about a year now, and it works great.....its cheap too! I also have a few friends who run it. Some stunt, some dont....but everyones bikes do great with it. I change it alot anyways though.
#53
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by 900RR_UP_ON1
I run Shell "Rotella T" its made for heavy duty diesel trucks. I have been using it for about a year now, and it works great.....its cheap too! I also have a few friends who run it. Some stunt, some dont....but everyones bikes do great with it. I change it alot anyways though.
#54
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by KSFSTUNTER
DIESEL OIL WHO
#55
Re: Oil!
I Know About Heavy Duty Diesel Oil I Sell Chevron Oil For A Living. Ive Sold About 300 Thousand Gallons Of Delo1540 This Year But I Was Always Under The Impression That A Motorcycle Needs A Friction Modifier For Wet Clutch Applications. But If Rottela T Is Workin Right On Try Delo1540 Haha.
#56
Re: Oil!
Originally Posted by KSFSTUNTER
I Know About Heavy Duty Diesel Oil I Sell Chevron Oil For A Living. Ive Sold About 300 Thousand Gallons Of Delo1540 This Year But I Was Always Under The Impression That A Motorcycle Needs A Friction Modifier For Wet Clutch Applications. But If Rottela T Is Workin Right On Try Delo1540 Haha.