I would recommend 5w40. The first number is the weight when starting up. You want it to be thin so it flows faster when you start your bike. 90% of damage happens at startup. The 2nd number 40 is the viscosity at operating temps. So 5/40 is actually better than 20/50. 20/50 is not good for high compression motors. 20/50 is also to thick at startup.

 

Didn't read this through, but just wanna say that good motorcycle oils have contain zinc. This helps to prevent seizure at metal to metal contact when oil pressure is compromized. normal motorcycle oils have 0.13%, some race motorcycle oils have over 0.20% zinc.

some manufacturers use some other substances, but zinc is common. Automotive oils don't contain any zinc, usually because they have to meet environmental values.

JT

 

I second the recommendation of running 5w40. I take back what I said about maybe switching to Mobile 1. First number is for what weight the oil will act like at freezing temps. Second number is for boiling temps. I have switched to Shell Rotella synthetic 5w40. Costs about 12.50 a gallon at walmart and is comparable to Mobile 1 but cheaper. Cant beat that for a synthetic oil. I'm no expert but this is what I use.

 

"Second number is for boiling temps"

NOT really. Second number is just how thick it is. 30 is thin, 40 is thicker, 50 is even thicker. I even asked Bel-Ray helpdesk that is 40 or 50weight better for Suzuki TL. which one will give better oil film at crank. They said 50. It's just thicker film, protects better.

 

Sorry Jaket didnt mean to confuse anyone. What I was meaning when I said that the second number was for boiling temps was, that is what weight the oil will act like at boiling temps. The 40 means it is no thinner than 40 weight oil at 212° Fahrenheit. So, the first number tells us the performance of the oil at or below the temperature of freezing water, and the second number tells us the performance at the temperature of boiling water. And Yes a fifty weight probably would be better to run if you live somewhere hot. I live in the midwest. It gets hot, but nothing like down south. And I ride my bike untill it gets nearly in the 30 degree area. That is why I run 5w40. That is just what I do.

 

well with my expierence I used mobil 1 full synthetic car oil with my first engine and I got 4 months of riding out of it before it blew, now I'm on my second blown engine and I used nothing but Motul 5100 ester synthetic blend and I got a year and half out of it. and I didn't have the big sprocket with the first motor so the streetriding I did with the sprocket and second engine was spinning crazy RPMS the whole time. so from what I have gone through Motorcycle oil is the only way to go. I also noticed that the shifting with the car oil was really notchy and with motorcycle oil it was allways a lot smother

 

I Sell Oil For A Chevron Jober In Socal Bottom Line Is Automotive Oils Dont Have Friction Modifiers For Wet Clutches Motorcycle Oils Do. And Motorcycles Have A Stronger Aditive Package Do To The Added Stress Thats put on these engines.

 

AMSOIL.COM

 

+10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

 

i run yamalube and yamafilter

i change it every 1000-1500 miles and crossthread the oil pan everytime.

but i found a company who makes self taping oil pan bolts. they are the **** i live by them

 

i used mobil 1 in my bike and the clutches started slipping...nothing but the cheap stuff for me now...works great..regular 10w-40..as long as it doesnt have the energy saving crap you are good to go...

 

I run Shell "Rotella T" its made for heavy duty diesel trucks. I have been using it for about a year now, and it works great.....its cheap too! I also have a few friends who run it. Some stunt, some dont....but everyones bikes do great with it. I change it alot anyways though.

 

DIESEL OIL WHO

 

I know it sounds strange, but its just a heavy duty oil that is designed for heavy equiptment and diesels. You can run it in other applications (such as motorcycles). Its a 15-40 weight oil. I run it because a good friend of mine did lots of research on it (he's an oil analysis agent for a big company). He compared it to Honda's factory motorcycle oil, and this stuff tested better! He has been using it in his bike forever, and he has had NO problems. Thats what i run now. :YEAH

 

I Know About Heavy Duty Diesel Oil I Sell Chevron Oil For A Living. Ive Sold About 300 Thousand Gallons Of Delo1540 This Year But I Was Always Under The Impression That A Motorcycle Needs A Friction Modifier For Wet Clutch Applications. But If Rottela T Is Workin Right On Try Delo1540 Haha.

 

Im not sure about the Delo1540, i have no knowledge about it, therefore im not gonna dump it in my bike. I agree that wet clutches need some type of friction modifier. I do not remember what the Rotella T has in it, but i do know that i ride the living **** out of my bike, and i have not had problems with it. The oil analysis guy friend of mine that told me about the oil is a 43 year old man that has been riding motorcycles since the early 70's. He is definitely not a slouch in the knowledge department, and has proven to me time and time again that he knows exactly what he is talking about if he says something. I definitely trust what he says, so i tried out the oil, and like i said i have had NO trouble with my bike. Run what you want and feel comfortable with forsure, but i personally run that oil, and like it. Its only like 8 dollars for a gallon of it. :YEAH

 

I'll stick with mobil 1 and my K&N filter

 

i use a nice extra virgin olive oil

 

took a long time for this thread to make it across the drink. haha

 

I like to run a mix of Schlitz and Natural Light, try it out.