ThePrimeR6

So my bike hasnt been starting for the last month in a half. It will crank all day but no fuel or spark. When I turn the key to the on position it won't prime and I pulled one coil out with the spark plug and cranked the motor and there isn't spark. I tested my fuel pump and it works, I tested it by attaching a wire to the fuel pump power wire and then connecting it to the battery. What happened with my bike is I was riding and my front wiring harness caught fire because it got too close to the header. My bikes a stunt bike so no gauge cluster, lights fairings, etc. eve since it will crank but no start. I took it to a shop got a brand new wiring harness installed. Still no start.
This is what I've done so far:

Bypassed the fuel cut relay. (fuel pump still won't turn on when I turn the key)

Bypassed BAS (Tip Sensor, and still nothing)

Checked for spark and checked spark plugs (No spark and spark plugs look fine)

Checked fuses (All good)

Checked Battery (Good 12.4 something volts)

Checked all sensors and there all good (They were all installed and checked by the shop)

Checked grounds (All snug)

What else am I missing? Or what else can I do?

Also If you live in North Bay Santa Rosa, CA area let me know I'll pay to have it checked out.

adichino

you will have to check your starter relay - i had a similar problem and this was my issue

get a multimeter (and manual) and check if you have any voltage on the R/Bl wire that goes to the ignition switch

there's no reason to bypass the fuel cut relay - its there for a reason ... be sure to have bas and clutch sensor bypassed so that ecu can send commands to the fuel cut relay to send voltage to the fuel pump (then you should hear it priming)

i guess ecu doesnt send any command to cpg (the one in charge with giving spark ) if this flow is not achieved: ingnition switch - bas - fuel cut relay - fuel pump priming ...

ThePrimeR6

Alright thanks. I'll check all that as soon as I get home later today and i'll let you know how things go. Also the shop I took it to suggested it may be a bad ECM.

ThePrimeR6

Ok so I checked for the clutch switch and I'm guessing it's supposed to be on the clutch lever? all I know is it should have 2 black wires going to it. Theres no switch on my lever whatsoever. My bike would start without the clutch in so I guess it's already bypassed and the bike cranks right now without the clutch.

I checked my starter relay which i'm assuming is near the battery and has a 30 fuse attached to it. I unplugged it and with my volt meter I attached the negative side to the battery on the negative side and then with the positive side of the voltmeter I touched that to all 3 plug on both female and male side and only 2 of the plugs gave a reading and it was 12 V and that was on the actual relay side where the Yellow/Red & Green/Red wire go into but the other side of the plug (Closest to battery and not the relay) didnt give off anything on all 3 plugs. I then checked the Red/Black wire in the ignition and it gave off nothing. I attached the black side of voltmeter to frame and the red side to the wire where it's soldered. I did this with key on and off.

adichino

check this image http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/7...hsidestand.jpg
you need to locate that connector and wire togheter the G/W G/R and G wires (only G/W and G for bypassing clutch switch, G/R with G for bypassing side stand if you wanna)



you're right thats the starter relay

there's a R/Y wire that leaves from + of battery ... goes to a 20A fuse then turns R/W and goes to engine stop relay (you must have 12V all the time on this wire)

the G/R from clutch switch goes to starter relay (if clutch switch is not bypassed then it wont start)

the R wire from starter relay goes to ignition switch and here you should have 12v all time

check your R/Bl wire from ignition switch to see if you have 12V WITH key ON

ThePrimeR6

Ok on that diagram you showed me it only shows one solid green wire. I found the connecter on my bike and jumped the G/W to the one Solid G and still nothing.

The R/Y from + side of battery has 12V and the R/W that goes to engine stop relay has 12V

I pulled the plug off the starter relay and tested voltage on G/R and got nothing all the others read 12V

The R from starter relay that goes to ignition has 12V

And when the key is turned on the R/BL in ignition switch has 12V

old man roger

i didnt read the whole thread but has any one mention the resister in the ignition switch ? pretty common for them to go bad on the f4i

ThePrimeR6

No no one has. How do I check that? And if it was bad would that be why my spark plugs don't spark?

old man roger

easiest way to check it would be to plug in another ignition switch and see if the bike starts ..lol

i dont remember what wire it is coming out of the ignition switch but one of them will have a lowered voltage because of the resistor around 7 volts i think , it's kind of a security feature to make the bike harder to hot wire ..

ThePrimeR6

Ok well it shouldn't be that because the ignition switch is brand new just installed by a shop 2 weeks ago.

I almost thought maybe my bike wouldn't spark because of the cam pulse generator but it reads 483 ohms so thats good. My coils read 1.1 ohms is that ok?

old man roger

i wouldnt know ..

ThePrimeR6

Ok. I think the last thing to check is the ECU. Is there any way to check without getting a new or used one?

old man roger

you dont know any one else that rides an f4i ?

GORBO

+1 on the ignition, a buddy that I ride with just went throught this same thing and it was a damaged diode in the ignition

old man roger

it's really common , they go bad from drops and from shorts

ThePrimeR6

I highly doubt it because when the shop replaced it they tried getting the bike to run like a minute after installing it and it still wouldn't spark. And no I don't know anyone else with a f4i.

old man roger

you had it at a shop and they couldnt get it running , i wouldnt go to that shop any more

ThePrimeR6

Yea it was at a shop for over a month. They replaced the whole wiring harness, ignition switch, front sub harness, and engine kill switch. They think it's the ECU.

The whole story behind my bike is I was riding it and part of the harness got to close to the header and caught fire. It would crank all day but no fuel or spark. The fuel cut relay is jumped right now so when I turn the bike on it doesnt prime it just stays on. So the fuel pump is fine and the relay is fine. Spark plugs are good here a little tan but I pulled the coil out and attached a brand new spark plug and when I cranked the engine there wasnt any spark. I bypassed the BAS by connecting the green and red wires and leaving white wire hanging and I bypassed the clutch switch by jumping the two wires.

Starter relay is fine, red and black wire in ignition is good, battery is good, cam pulse generator reads 483 ohms and its good if its anywhere from 480-500 ohms so that's good. Grounds are all tight and snug. So only thing I can think of is the ECM

MikeM

Do you have gauges?

ThePrimeR6

No I dont. Mines a stunt bike/ street fighter. Has race fairings and no gauges.