I donnt know what It is!

Its a 96 Gsxr 750, It is making a loud a$$ clanking noise when its idleing,
Ill get on and Ride and it is smooth after I give it some gas....
Help me out, And Ideas....


And also, anone know how much oil is needed to fill this bitc*?

 

dude, your timing chain tensioner is fucked fix it asap, or a 50$ problem will turn into a 500+$ problem quick! it needs the timing chain tensioner replaced. dont think you can adjust those bitches. as far as oil goes, your prob should just google that ****.

 

It has a After market Tensioner on it....
HOW DO I TIGHTEN IT!!!!!

 

Alright I think I got t Figured out,

But What does it mean If there are little Black Bits around the Cam Chain.

It seems like the Chain was just rubbing the Guard.

Should I just clean It all out and Tighten the Tensioner?
Please Let Me KNoW AsAP

 

did it stop making that noise? if it didn't it's not fixed, i don't know what the black stuff is... use your intelect lol, is it the guard ****? or is it grease/grime/grundge etc. lol i can't see it so i can't tell yah.

 

I tighted the tensioner up but the chain kept comeing loose if I would pull on it, But I got it to grip and It tightend so i Put It all back together, started it up and it was Much better at Idle, I took off and then there was a Little bit of the noise, So i took it all back of again and the Chain had loosened all the way up again. So I am Guessing the tensioner Might have went out or ****ed up some how.. So. I Just ordered another one so i am waiting for that to get here and I am hoping that will fix it.....


Could Someone Please Give Me Some detailed info on how to Put The New tensioner In. Thanks!

 

google that **** son! I just took a wild guess at that tensioner ****, i know it's a common problem. and alot of guys with older gix's complain about it. lemme do some link searching. but i do know if you ride it with that **** like that it will **** up some **** you don't wanna **** up bro.

 

its not hard. installed one in a friends 98 gsxr 750 while i was in hawaii.... Unplug the battery, remove the gas tank, remove the valve cover, zip tie the chain to the cam gears so it doesn't jump a tooth when you remove the tensioner.

i installed a manual adjuster model instead the factory auto one. if i remember correctly without having it in front of me its behind the fairing on the right side of the bike.


http://gsxrzone.com/sprockets.html




Parts / Tools:

New CCT (duh)
New CCT gasket
2 zip ties
angle snips to cut said zip ties
metric alan wrench set
metric socket set
drive wrench / extensions for the socket set, fool!
Long phillips-head screwdriver
Gasket Maker (High Temp RTV silicone, usually the red stuff)

Procedure:

** NOTE: some of these steps are not necessary, i.e. it may be possible to leave the tank propped up, it just makes life a lot easier to remove the tank. Also to remove the tank you might want to remove the tail bodywork, but it is not totally necessary. **

-Remove the right side fairing (bunch of alan head bolts).
-Remove the rider's seat (2 bolts under rear corners of seat).
-Lift (4mm alan) then remove the fuel tank (this procedure is a little different for the 98-99 750's), but in general - unhook the electrical and hose connections to the tank, remove the (2) 12mm bolts that hold the tank hinge bracket to the top of the subframe, lift the tank away from the bike and set it aside.
-Remove the airbox (10mm bolt in front and Phillups for the TB's etc)
-Loosen the TBs from the motor, then push them down and back as far as you can.
-Pull out the spark plug wires (and cam sensor wire if applicable)
-Remove the valve cover (6mm alan) and the top chain guide
-Remove the crank bolt cover on the right side of the crank (10mm alan, silver in color, larger of the two silver caps)
-Turn the crank CLOCKwise (14mm socket) until you can see a hole in both cam sprockets. Never turn the motor counterclockwise.
-Use the ziptie on each cam to hold the chain to the cam (this keeps the chain from jumping when you remove the CCT)
-Move the TBs as far to the front of the bike as you can
On the right hand side (inside) frame rail there is a bracket that holds a few parts to the frame, the bracket is held in with 2 bolts (10mm), remove them then push the whole bracket out of the way.
-Remove the stock CCT (5mm alan). Inspect the old CCT to make sure it was not eaten up by the motor, and little bits are floating around the motor.
-Put a *small dab* of Gasket Maker on the edge of the new CCT gasket and put the gasket on the new CCT. Put the Gasket Maker only on the CCT side of the gasket, not the motor side. And, only use enough to hold the gasket in place so you can get the bolts threaded and down... you shouldn't need much.
-Put the new CCT in the bike and tighten to 16.5 ft-lbs (you can use Loctite if you like)
-Turn in the CCT adjusting bolt until you see the cam chain start to get tight.
-Cut off the two zip ties
-Tighten the CCT until there is about 1/4" deflection in the chain. Measure this equidistant between the two cam sprockets, from top to bottom.
-Turn the motor by hand about 1/2 turn and check the chain again (do this a few times to make sure you get it correct)
-Tighten the lock nut on the CCT to the base of the CCT
-Replace the Valve cover and the bracket on the right side of the frame. Be sure to seat the gasket properly and torque the bolts down to spec. Do not overtighten these bolts!!! they could make your life a living hell if you mess this up.
-Replace the TBs
-Replace the airbox
-Replace the tank
-Replace the crank cover cap
-Replace the right side bodywork
-Replace the seat

I am not sure if the valve cover gasket *must* be replaced, if it looks deteriorated in any way it is wise to replace it, but you will be able to tell if it is not seated properly very quickly if you run the motor --- as it will puke oil like mad!

 

Alright I just ordered that Exact one. And that is the One already on the Bike, Hope this one works

 

i didn't read the whole thread...but why did you order ANOTHER one?

i can't think of ANY possible reason that a aftermarket cam chain tentioner would go bad...it's CNC machines and the chain can't grind it so WTF?!

 

p.s. just read your other post....unless you

1. tighten the LOCK-NUT on the manual tentioner
or
2. hold it with your hand before you turn on the bike

it WILL loosen itself from the vibration...that's normal...just hold it with your hand...and if you still hear the noise, tighten it...do NOT overtighten it. i repeat, do NOT!

i'm super cereal.

 

alright But the reason I Bought a new one is because as I am trying to tighten this one, the chain kept popping loose..And there were those Black chunks inn there. Idk I hope it all works. Thanks for the Help

 

Is it ok to tighten it and then Start it withiut taking the whole Valve cover and what not off? Also, is there any way is could make that Ticking Noise with it to tight?

 

you shouldn't even have to take off the valve cover...wtf?

can you post up pics or a video?

and yes, even with it perfectly adjusted, it can still rattle...at that point, you have a bad cam-chain....but this is un-likely.

here is an easy way to adjust it. (kudos to OMR)
1. tighten it till hand-tight.
2. hold it with 1 hand so it doesn't vibrate itself out.
3. slowly loosen it until you head it rattle, stop once you start hearing it.
4. turn off the bike
5. tighten it 1/4 turn
6. lock it in place.

again, post up pics of you can.

 

I thought you had to take the valve cover off to check the tension of the chain for 1/4 inch play. But dam thats hella easier than what I have been doing. and Should I just back the tensioner all the way out, then tighten it to hand tight, then Do i start the bike>? And Adjust it towere the rattleing stops while it is still running correct?

 

i'm about to go to sleep bud...sorry...it's 610am here and i havn't slept for 22 hours.

do exactly what i said above...and post up wut happens. so ya...
loosen
tighten
fire up
loosen
fire off
tighten 1/4 turn
lock.

i'm sure someone else will help ya out.

p.s. i thought you meant head cover...lol...it's late... the opening the valve cover is the "correct" way of doing it. my way is the "blind" way but still effective.

 

Alright thanks for the help. Illletya know how it workS

 

The black pieces are from the cam chain guides

 

"loud noises!"

 

Alright I have been On this for hours....HELP!