That was only once but yeah thats a good part of why I'm sore too

 

Construction Equipment
Albury - New South Wales - Australia
3,158.00 (Approx. 158 Loads)
871.50 (Approx. 114 Loads Left)
12/25/2008 - 1/1/2009
$1.82
P.A.R. Trucking
$7,895.00
$47,370.00

 

Im still flying. Ima try to get my earnings over 200k but I dont know if it will happen since i sleep a lot and miss hours every day

 

i charged my battery, the old volt meter i had laying around read me 12.98 and when i turned the bike on... stayed the same, when i rev'd it... didn't nudge... so i'm assuming its the rectifier... i think it over heated and fried it... i dont have a spare here with me... so i'll have to wait till i get back home from the holidays.

i'm envious.

 

Neil are u serious... it was the battery?

 

and the wiring harness

 

It wasnt the battery - we put Mikes battery in the bike and Julios battery in the bike and it did the same thing. It was the wiring harness but then after swapping the wiring harness it was still acting up (not completely the same) so I'm assuming from constantly draining the battery and charging and boosting from cars etc, that in the process the battery got toasted. Trust me brah - the first thing I did was put Julio's battery in. Then when I went to Mikes we put his battery in - and at your place you had the battery hooked up to your car - with your car running giving it full juice and it didnt wanna start. Im guessing when the first motor was put in that maybe the harness got pinched somewhere even though there was nothing that I could see visibly wrong. Maybe a wire was loose from the wiring clips or some **** - Iono but it definitely wasnt as easy as the battery

 

Dont be envious Took me 3 months to figure out what the **** it was - and 2 motors At least it looks like you figured your **** out quick

 

I shouldve swapped the harness before putting another motor in but I didnt see why the harness would be fucked up It was fine when my motor cracked but whatever - its done now and I can ****** wheelie again

 

flywheel,stator or voltage reg'. not likely the flywheel or stator unless she took a bad hit. check the 3 pin connector coming from the stator, if it has 4-6 volts coming from it before the voltage reg while running, then it's the regulator bro. use ur voltmeter on the 10 or 20v scale to get the best readings.

 

it's gotta be the regulator... cause i changed my stator.. and when i looked at my old one.. nothing look wrong with it... the bike only started acting up after I did a 5 hour session with my new full fairings, the tail section was a full tail instead of my old half cut one... and I had the regulator zip tied to the lower plastic undertail piece, i guess before it was getting enough air to cool it down enough... the regulator is suppose to be attached to the subframe, ie: metal absorbs heat, and plastic is an installator. so like i said, i really think i fried it...

crossing my fingers anyway...

and actually it has taken me 3 months to figure this out... that and i've been lazy about it, and been riding my dirt bike instead. ha

 

take the old stator and measure resisitance between the 3 pin terminal and the body of it/bike frame. (when it's installed on the bike) there should e none....if there is, the stator has failed.

check ur charge fuse...that'll do it, or the stator or regulator. you gotta do some tests to pinpoint what is the failed unit because now you are just buying and installing parts for no reason.

take your time...i just told you how to check this **** out, or take it to a shop/friend to get it looked at. The time you spend buying unrequired parts could be going towards the investigation to fix it right the first time and not get caught somewhere in the backroads without a working mule. good luck, figure it out bro.

 

sorry i missed this thread, not that I could've helped but i had a very similar problem with my 900. I had a small drop on the right side, picked it up, and it wouldnt start. Ice cold it would start perfectly, after 5 mins it wouldnt start. I tried a new starter relay, cleaned all the connections and put some dielectric grease on all the couplers. still didnt work I checked my starter button, kill switch, still nothing. then i checked the wires from the starter relay to the main harness and saw 1 had almost about 3 small wires barely hanging onto the connector on the one wire

 

yea man, doing resisitance checks can fail as a reliable test cause those 3 tiny strands of wire will give you continuity on an ohms test and make you think you have a good connection...it just can't carry the load or amperage that the starter needs/relay req's to close the switch. most of the time doing load testing or voltage draw when trying to start, between the battery and ground, starter and so on...

if you have voltage missing, ie-10v...where are the other 2 volts??? (when you have a fully charged cell 12.6v) it all goes somewhere right and what's using it? could be as simple as a power/live wire touching the body/frame..causing heat and using the energy.

3-types of short circuits.....can you figure them out?

 

probably not, i'm horrible with wiring!

 

just don't lick ur fingers when seperating the live wires.....

naw dude honestly...anybody beating the **** out of their bike without a sponsor to fix all that you have fucked up in a day should have the essentials to electrical...DVOM/multimeter, test leads, 12v test light, battery charger etc....

if you think you can't learn get a friend to help[ you man, if you are interested in wrenching on bikes, then i'm sure you can divulge the info and retain it to when you have to do it again or help a buddy in need. a test light is like 10-15 bucks...DVOM's are ....say cheap...50$$ and the Fluke meter/DVOM's are like 250-500....

.you can do crazy small amp draws from ur battery, and just crazy in-line testing IE...injector and oxygen sensor outputs/inputs, p[retty much all bikes inc the new trail bikes are going FI so i think it's Kawi or Yamaha are the only dealers with carb'd bikes anymore..........

 

yeah thats probably what happened to mine but i havent went back out to check the old harness to see whats what.

 

poni-

very true on the equipment, I'm gonna pickup a multimeter and a testlight. This is honestly the first time i've ever had a "wiring" problem. stators/regulator-rectifiers/batteries are pretty easy to diagnose. but this one made me want to

 

that's good man.....you are interested in the mechanical...get some reliable tools. once you learn it ,you'll remember what it was you did. if not....take some notes and piks....i get into some real intricate **** where i work...there would be no way from memory i could reaaemble some of the transmissions and engines by memory alone. I take digital piks and write out the dissasembly of the entire unit and any side notes or "tricks" to get er done.

the subject gets pushed out and a month or so later the parts come in just like months down the road you may have to re-test the same old **** again......good thing you got ur notes eh???? and the piks!! i think neal knows about my tranny rebuild and the valves i bent in my head when i was doing a burnout and the gears didn't mesh quite like how you want em to.....first time ever tearing a whole motorcycle engine down to the crank being out....

i had coffee cups labeled, piks and online/DVD manual w diagrams blown up so i could get the theory,read, prepare...then get the bike on stands and break it down install my gears and valves and reassemble......the bike werks great now.....

so get a friend and a camera....some specs for ur bike. (my CDrom for my bike was 10 bucks on ebay) and go at it.

neal must be bald from the hair he was pullin out trying to deal with his bike.....

 

very true-- good to see you on here, people **** **** up every day!