brake bleeding
#1
brake bleeding
Ok, I have a new full throttle rear master. I have it all hooked up , but it will not bleed, So now i have 3 places to bleed it , The rear caliper , the rear master and the hand master/ lever. Why cant i just bleed it at the full throttle rear master? Or can I? I was told thet i could open the rear ( caliper) bleeder nut and hook a hose to it and put the hose in a bottle of brake fluid and then open the bleeder nut at the lever and pump tell i get solid fluid. Has anyone done it this way? Soem step by step info would be cool, thansk for the info.
#2
Re: brake bleeding
i dunno about bleeding all the spots. but you can use that method of bleeding all it does is instead of pulling air you pull fluid into the system. i find the best way is with two people but if you are alone that is a good way. on my 1000rr when i put steel on the front i had to bleed the lever then bleed the calipers. so if they have bleeder screws you probably need to bleed them but if not just go to the caliper. just my .02
#3
also known as OMR
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OMR INDUSTRIES in west palm beach florida
Posts: 79,288
Re: brake bleeding
i have always just opened the bleeder on the caliper and pumped the hand brake untill i got a good flow then i put my finger over the bleeder and keep pumping ...
your finger will let the fluid and air out but wont let the air back in, a whole new system will have alot of air in it so i suggest you pump like two or three resivoirs worth of fluid through it onces you get a good flow going.....
and don't forget to rinse your brakes realy good with a garden hose ,and if your pads are new they are going to take some time to brake in ...i just say this because i have seen to many people think they need to keep bleeding when they realy just need to brake in there new pads....
your finger will let the fluid and air out but wont let the air back in, a whole new system will have alot of air in it so i suggest you pump like two or three resivoirs worth of fluid through it onces you get a good flow going.....
and don't forget to rinse your brakes realy good with a garden hose ,and if your pads are new they are going to take some time to brake in ...i just say this because i have seen to many people think they need to keep bleeding when they realy just need to brake in there new pads....
Last edited by old man roger; 02-24-2007 at 11:06 AM.
#4
Re: brake bleeding
i find once you get good pressure that the most air usually stays right at the hand master. and i bleed it by cracking the line if you already didnt know. everyone does it different. if you follow the instructions that came with your full throttle setup you should be good
#6
Re: brake bleeding
i have always just opened the bleeder on the caliper and pumped the hand brake untill i got a good flow then i put my finger over the bleeder and keep pumping ...
your finger will let the fluid and air out but wont let the air back in, a whole new system will have alot of air in it so i suggest you pump like two or three resivoirs worth of fluid through it onces you get a good flow going.....
and don't forget to rinse your brakes realy good with a garden hose ,and if your pads are new they are going to take some time to brake in ...i just say this because i have seen to many people think they need to keep bleeding when they realy just need to brake in there new pads....
your finger will let the fluid and air out but wont let the air back in, a whole new system will have alot of air in it so i suggest you pump like two or three resivoirs worth of fluid through it onces you get a good flow going.....
and don't forget to rinse your brakes realy good with a garden hose ,and if your pads are new they are going to take some time to brake in ...i just say this because i have seen to many people think they need to keep bleeding when they realy just need to brake in there new pads....
#7
also known as OMR
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OMR INDUSTRIES in west palm beach florida
Posts: 79,288
Re: brake bleeding
yea it works the best this way because it doesn't give the air bubbles any time to float back up like it does when you stop and start over and over
#8
Re: brake bleeding
I could never bleed my full throttle system right. I have the 16x18 brembo, steel braided all around and new pads and rotor. My hb was always garbage. I tried and tried to bleed them, even called bill at full throttle to see if he could help me get thru the problem. Finally, and this is the best thing i have ever done, I removed my whole system from the bike. This only took like five minutes, so it was not that bad. I bench bled the whole system and I C-clamped the pads and piston to the caliper so the piston was held all the way in. I just did it pretty much how O.M.R. said to do it, and it worked soooo good. It works much better from the bench stand point cuz you can have the front master on a work bench and have all the lines running down to the floor and just have your caliper on the floor. It only took like 5 minutes to get all the air out.
#9
also known as OMR
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OMR INDUSTRIES in west palm beach florida
Posts: 79,288
Re: brake bleeding
glad it worked for you mike #2 but you would have been better off putting the caliper higher then every thing since thats where you want the air to escape....
but as long as you just keep pumping it will push the air down hill also....
but as long as you just keep pumping it will push the air down hill also....
#10
Re: brake bleeding
hey old man roger why would my foot brake lose pressure when in a high wheelie when the hand brake feels good the whole time. oh yeah , fullthrottle adapter and gsxr master if that helps
#12
Re: brake bleeding
actually I just bled the whole system again and went to test it , when it was up in the air the front lever went to the bar and the bike went to the 12 bar kinda of scary , i dont know what the fu**
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