ya ya this has been discussed befor but i cant find any thing. my idle will not stay at 3000 rpms it jumps to like 4500 what was the airbox mod that your saposed to do also any other things you need to do like the evhaust flaps , anything electrical etc. thanks

 

It was my understanding that the 954's had some issue where u couldnt set the idle higher than 2200. No matter what ya did.

Thats where I set mine, and I dont touch it. If i go higher than that, it races and jumps up and down.

 

ill give u a bump.
dont you need a 900rr idle cable? if its like the f4i the idle cable is just a mixture screw and adjust the air fuel mixture. it doesnt actaully open the throttle bodies
you might need a new idle cable along with the stock one that can adjust the throttle bodies!
good luck
somebody knows wut u need to do

 

the cable dosen't fix the problem...

i don't think anybody on here has completely fixed the problem.

set the idle at 2400 and leave it... thats what I did and it pulls fine on idle.

 

yea you need the 2nd cable bro, they've said that the stock adjuster only adjusts idle and doesn't really bring your actual engine revs up to 3000ish like it should.

 

again...

the 2nd cable DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. I tried it.

It will still jump all over the place. 2400 pulls hard enough if your geared.

 

Fixes it without a problem for me.. the idle cable to the throttle bodies is the equivelent of just holding the throttle solid in one position with your hand

 

I know...

Mine still did the same thing though And a few other people on here too.

 

I had the same problem with my 929, I put a 900rr cable into the throttle stop underneath the airbox but it still jumped around until I cut the wires going to the clutch and hard wired them. Doesn't jump around now. What ever you do don't pull your exhaust valve out because it does nothing but take bottem end away.

 

What do you mean cut??? I got the same issue w. 954.

 

Is this true? Cuz when I bought mine it was already wired open...........

 

There are two wires that plug into the clutch, if you hard wire them the idle stops jumping around.
The exhaust valve has nothing to do with the idle, what they do is run a bigger cam for top end but throw the exhaust valve in to give more back pressure for bottom end. I pulled my exhaust valve out and it made no difference to the idle but I lost bottom end and the engine would cough every now and then when I was clutching it up.

 

your telling me the clutch switch is somehow related to the idle?

 

what two cables are you refering to?

got a pic?

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/frames...20&parent=5320

tell us what you mean

 

Not cables, there are wires going to the clutch so that when the bike is in gear you can't start the bike without the clutch pulled in. Don't know how they are related but trust me my idle was jumping around when I put the 900rr idle screw in to the throttle stop but when I joined the two wires that go to the clutch it stopped.

 

weird I don't even have that switch anymore. I grounded my Nuetral so it can start in anygear.

 

If you've streetfightered your bike and unplugged all unnecessary wires from your loom you'll have to short them out at the plug.

 

Short as in the same as the tip over sensor ???

Just connect the two ends??

 

Have you got the 'wiring harness' that attaches to your indicator/highbeam unit. There should be two wires coming off the unit to the clutch, unplug them and connect the two ends. If you don't have the 'wiring harness' then you have to join them by basically putting another wire or safety pin into the plug where the two wires would have gone back where the harness would have plugged into the rest of the loom.

 

cam: you could be right. my 954 has broken clutch switch so I have to start the bike up always at neutral. i have 900rr second idle cable and it still jumps around if I adjust it over 2200 or so.

I have noticed that engine high idle (2000) changes when I switch between neutral and first gear. It changes about ~200rpm. lot of bikes run different fuel injection/ignition maps for neutral. usually neutral map is used also when clutch is pulled. so hard wiring clutch switch probably forces the bike to run constantly neutral map. usually this kind of hard wiring is bad for top power, because neutral map doesn't work that well. but for stunting it could be the right setup.

I have to attach a switch to neutral wires and check how it effects.

it could be that when the bike is running neutral map it's not using any accelerator pump feature or something like that. if it's running first gear map it can pump more fuel in and that makes the idle to jump up and run high for a while.

but that is certain it runs a different fuel/ignition setup for clutch pulled or not.(neutral or first gear).

JakeT.