There is a long story behind this bike but I'll stick to the main problem.
It will crank eventually if i give it about 1/2 throttle, I had to push it off a few times. It runs like crap till it gets warmed up to about 200. After that it'll crank fairly easy and runs STRONG but it never idles below 1500 smoothly. I have the second idle cable mod done but my problems were there before that.

It doesn't have any FI codes stored.

My Cam chain tensioner is rattling at 5k but I checked the timing and it's still right.

Could it be valve adjustment?? Isn't that a pain in the *** with taking out the cams and all? The bike has about 17000 on it.

 

new plugs and a clean air filter is where i'd start... if that doesn't cure the problem (and make it run smooth at idle and start easy) i would check your valve clearances.

 

yup. my bike runs fine cold once it warms up and always starts within one second of pressing start....... and always has. plus one on plugs and airfilter....maybe check plug wires too.....

 

Put new plugs in and air filter is clean, no wires just coil packs on an f4i. It did foul two plugs once. iridiums are expensive as hell!
I dread the valves.... It has caps and shims instead of rocker arms. If it's the valves keeping it from running right wouldn't it be from them staying open and leaking compression??? How would this happen with shims? Oil caked up maybe??
Also, just for the record the throttle bodies, rail, and injectors have been swapped and same problem as before .

 

" I have the second idle cable mod done but my problems were there before that."

Second cable messes up the balance between stock adjuster and the new one. This is probably at least big part of the problem. before you shut the bike down, try to change the balance between them. Like roll the second adjuster to 2000 and lower with stock adjuster to 1200. Then try next time is it better, if not roll the stock adjuster to 2000 and lower it down with new adjuster. Ones you get the best setting, just use the new adjuster, newer use the stock adjuster again.

JakeT.

 

yeah sorry i am a dumbass....i know they dont have plug wires....i meant the wires involved with spark.......my bad,,,,,maybe a good ol compression test could give you some insight......

 

Gonna try to check the lash tonight. i dont have a compression tester yet. I'm sure i will soon if the lash is right

 

I have seen a fuel pump go bad. If its been run out of gas a lot, it can cause them to not work very well, or it could just be failing. Just a thought

 

yeah sounds like valves or compression to me...

 

your problem definatley has nothing to do with valves or compression, I say that because both of those problems will exhibit symtoms no matter the temperature of the enginge, but leaking piston rings could be kinda of a longshot. Your problem sounds to me like a fuel problem (leaky injector, sticking injector, or anything else that is causing your A/F ratio to go totally out of whack. Hope that helps, if u need anything else just ask, i'm a ASE certified master auto technician and certified by American Honda Motor Company (for cars). Laterz

 

Thanks
So far I've checked the timing, my Cam Chain tensioner is rattling but I ordered a manual one, repalced the entire throttle body set up-injectors, fuel rail, vacum lines, map sensor,TPS, IAT, Spark plugs (twice), Battery & ECT sensor. I also took off a timing advance and put it back stock.
If I hold the throttle wide open, it will eventually crank, but sometimes it throws a FI code for MAP sensor while trying. Once I get it running and warm I reset it and rode and never had a trouble code. I did notice that it doesn't run as it should until 9000rpm. The fuel pump seems to be working.

The guy I bought it from said it was gradual. He said he first noticed that it was hard to start, then harder, then it got to where he had to push it off.

This dam thing is about to get me, I've got a comp next weekend so I need all the help I can get.

 

check all the vacume hoses and the look for any cracked or broken wires around engine and computer, find someone with a f4i and swap computers see if that helps.

 

Wrong, He said it isnt running great but better when it warms up. I just swapped heads from my old motor to the one im running for the same problem and cleared it right up. I had a couple of burnt exhaust valves and 1 bad intake and almost no compression on 2 cylinders. wouldnt fire when cold for **** but as soon as it warmed up it ran, not great but would wheelie and still run past 100mph fine.