Jaket

so

I started to install the idle adjuster from 900RR.

You need to take the airbox out, open the top, unscrew the bellmouths, release tubes and raise it up. At the middle of the pic you see the white painted bolt where the adjuster goes, I needed to shorten the adjuster thread to get it in(it hits valve cover). I also left the spring out. Works good at stand still. Thou it's kinda short, i have to find adjuster that is even longer so it would stick out more under the airbox and be easier to adjust.

there is goes


It's there



airbox back



JakeT.

Armenian

great pics man--i did the same thing to my 929 last week--I had to cut off a few of the threads on the end of the adjuster too cuz it was hitting the valve cover. I left the spring in--just so it wont vibrate around and adjust the idle FOR me. Now, I turned my stock fuel adjuster back down and turned the 900rr cable up a bit--felt too touchy so i turned the stocker up a bit more along with the 900rr adjuster up. Feels good.

Z-UNIT

did it to my f4i wont work no matter how much i turn it..and its def in cuz i cant pull it out. no idea wats wrong so i continue to use my stock idle adjuster. also i didnt use a 900rr cable i bought another stock f4i adjustment cable.?!?!?!

Jaket

"also i didnt use a 900rr cable i bought another stock f4i adjustment cable.?!?!?!"

I think this old 900RR uses normal metric thread, when I shortened the threads I tryed with normal nut and it worked(i cleaned the threads with it-after cutting there is always little burrs). The stock 954 has very fine thread, so maybe the f4 has too, if you put it to the throttle stop screw position, the threads go busted?

JakeT.

nags

I tried to do this and couldn't make the bend.. So I cut a few threads off and somehow ****ed the threads up.. So I rethreaded it and made it even worse.. argh

nos96f22

hey i did this mod also but when i thread in the 900 cable it stops turning and just bunches up...anyone else haave this problem and know how to fix it?

Jaket

Both of you may have busted the threads. After shortening the threads, try it out with stock nut, so you know the threads work. Or you may have busted the throttle body threads..

My adjuster works, but it's too damn short. And with 905 style cage I cannot reach the stock adjuster, so it's pain in the ***. I need to find massive long idle adjuster.

Jake

nos96f22

i tryed it with the nut and the threads are good.. so i dont know why it keeps doing it

J-Boogie

Jake you seem to be the man on this 954 idle problem,
i was talking to another stunter on myspace.com and he said the 954 was a difficult bike to stunt because of these issues, but once dialed in its pretty awsome, he said sumthing similar to what you said to me in the 954 Q&A,
these were his exact words

"take the exhaust flapper vavle out. take the flapper out of the air box. leave the servo motor in. Leave your current idle control but add a direct manual control to the throttle body's butterfly. it should be right in the middle of the throttle body set. that'll make it easier to quickly adjust the idle in a very consistent mannor.

if this makes sense to yo can you explain it to me in laymens terms, cause i suck at trying to be a mechanic?

Jaket

""take the exhaust flapper vavle out. take the flapper out of the air box. leave the servo motor in. Leave your current idle control but add a direct manual control to the throttle body's butterfly. it should be right in the middle of the throttle body set."

so lets deal with this step by step.

"take the exhaust flapper valve out. " I think he is saying that remove the exhaust valve, that is inside the exhaust valve 'cover', this can be reached from the left side of the bike, side fairing needs to be removed first. Two cables go to this valve. remove the valve and make some plate that fills the hole.

"take the flapper out of the air box", there is a flat inside the airbox. Raise the tank and you can get to it. But I don't think it's even necessary to remove this, because it opens at 7000-8000rpm's so it doesn't effect the lower revs. Also if you decide to remove this, you can also leave it there, just push it down and slide the edges under the rubber air tunnels. this keeps it open all the time.

"leave the servo motor in." servo motor controls the exhaust valve and the intake valve in the airbox, but you need to leave it there so the bikes computer stays happy. you can remove the cables thou(not electrical cables).

"Leave your current idle control but add a direct manual control to the throttle body's butterfly. it should be right in the middle of the throttle body set.""
This last part is what this idle adjuster 101 thread is explaining. The new cable is installed to the center of the throttle body set. It replaces the throttle stop screw. Check the pictures.

Hope this helps. I haven't removed the exhaust valve yet. You could check also the HASS eliminator. It would be an easy and relatively cheap mod that eliminates the exhaust valve completely.

http://showcase.netins.net/web/draft...ted/page8.html

here is diagram how those valves work.

http://www.cbr929rr.com/images/eliminator/HVIX.jpg

J-Boogie

Thank you! so much!
before i get into the exhaust valve stuff i wanna do the same thing that u did and add a direct manual idle cable adjuster, i ordered one from an 98 900rr,
will this mod alone be enuff to get the stable and consistent idle that i want?
or do u think i should also address the exhaust valve for a better idle consistency?

Jaket

"direct manual idle cable adjuster, i ordered one from an 98 900rr,
will this mod alone be enuff to get the stable and consistent idle that i want?"

It's easier to adjust and you get it higher then with stock adjuster, but it will get wierd over 2100rpm. If you adjust it to 2500 and flip the throttle it jumps to 4-5k, then it sometimes drops below, it's all because that exhaust valve, it opens at 3000 and the engine jumps to higher revs, then at some point it closes. It's all wierd with this the exhaust valve crap.

I think d-aces cory has just removed the control cables from the exhaust valve and wired the exhaust valve to some fixed position, this should work too. you just have to try what position works best for your driving.

N*A*M

not 954 specific but i'm trying to do this on a hornet 919. it's a ***** of a job. as far as i can tell, the spine-type chassis means the airbox is impossible to remove without completely dropping the motor. has anyone done it on a 919?

gixr6r

is the solution to the 954 and 929 issues the same, i'm so sick of f'ing with this idle issue that i'm thinkin of getting rid of my 929, dont really want to though. Is that hass eliminator kit the real deal as in if i bolt that on and install a 900rr idle adjust cable i will be able to set the idle anywhere i want and have it stay consistent?

Jaket

"is the solution to the 954 and 929 issues the same, i'm so sick of f'ing with this idle issue that i'm thinkin of getting rid of my 929, dont really want to though. Is that hass eliminator kit the real deal as in if i bolt that on and install a 900rr idle adjust cable i will be able to set the idle anywhere i want and have it stay consistent?!"

Yep it's the solution, but hass eliminator needs power commander to run right. it comes with power commander map provided with it.

but 600cc is still better stunt bike.

DECEPTICON13

i have a 929, put on a 99 900rr cable, i didnt have to cut the threads or anything. just take your throttle bodies off.

works beautifully

jowalskiMO

dude if you are so sick of f-ing with it, just roll with a low idle... you dont really need an idle higher than 2800 for general stuntriding... (circles, nohanders, etc etc)

kj

Shiaaaat... on my 54's I'm usin 2300- 2400 noooo problem.

No need for any more than that on the 954s anyway.

Merry Xmas

jowalskiMO

see that dude knows wassup