Track riding
07-01-2010, 04:17 PM
#82
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07-01-2010, 04:34 PM
#83
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07-01-2010, 08:49 PM
#84
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Re: Track riding
Hey Zuki, do you know how long the stinger to waterbox exhaust hose is? I need the measurement for just the hose from the stinger to the 90 fitting going into the waterbox. Mine is missing so I need to go to vatozone and buy some radiator hose.
07-01-2010, 10:54 PM
#85
I Chose to No Longer Post
Join Date: Apr 2004
Age: 44
Posts: 37,859
Re: Track riding
Daytons? What is this bray 1990? You been watching some menace 2 society? Trying to get some Daytons and Vogues? Might as well throw some feelers on too ... 
You need some 35s and a lift kit with exhaust and intake and a tuner - thats a mans truck.
You need some 35s and a lift kit with exhaust and intake and a tuner - thats a mans truck.
07-02-2010, 08:35 AM
#86
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Location: Lauderdale
Age: 34
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07-02-2010, 08:39 AM
#87
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Location: Lauderdale
Age: 34
Posts: 13,773
Re: Track riding
35's and a lift kit?.. I live in South Florida.. maybe if i had a diesel.
Intake Exhaust and headers is about all this LM7 is gonna get lol...
LQ4 swap would be dreamy.
07-03-2010, 10:32 AM
#89
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07-03-2010, 02:27 PM
#93
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Re: Track riding
Got an exhaust hose at NAPA and installed it. Also got the fuel tank and battery box in. Now I need to get the pump and driveshaft installed so I can drop the engine in.
Zuki, can you fill me in on the proper way to silicone the pump to the ski? What kind of silicone should I use? Does it matter which way the driveshaft seal is installed? I know it has to be the right way back/forward so it doesn't leak, but what about axially? Also do you know anywhere that has all the water lines and pump fittings? There is 2 fittings on the pump (one is missing a fitting) and 3 in the hull. What is the other one for and which goes to what?
Zuki, can you fill me in on the proper way to silicone the pump to the ski? What kind of silicone should I use? Does it matter which way the driveshaft seal is installed? I know it has to be the right way back/forward so it doesn't leak, but what about axially? Also do you know anywhere that has all the water lines and pump fittings? There is 2 fittings on the pump (one is missing a fitting) and 3 in the hull. What is the other one for and which goes to what?
07-03-2010, 04:33 PM
#95
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Join Date: Oct 2002
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Re: Track riding
im at my mother in laws house right now, using firefox without adblock. i totally forgot how much **** is on stuntlife that i block. each page takes 5 seconds to load
07-03-2010, 04:40 PM
#96
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07-03-2010, 04:41 PM
#97
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07-03-2010, 04:49 PM
#98
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Posts: 37,984
Re: Track riding
Got an exhaust hose at NAPA and installed it. Also got the fuel tank and battery box in. Now I need to get the pump and driveshaft installed so I can drop the engine in.
Zuki, can you fill me in on the proper way to silicone the pump to the ski? What kind of silicone should I use? Does it matter which way the driveshaft seal is installed? I know it has to be the right way back/forward so it doesn't leak, but what about axially? Also do you know anywhere that has all the water lines and pump fittings? There is 2 fittings on the pump (one is missing a fitting) and 3 in the hull. What is the other one for and which goes to what?
Zuki, can you fill me in on the proper way to silicone the pump to the ski? What kind of silicone should I use? Does it matter which way the driveshaft seal is installed? I know it has to be the right way back/forward so it doesn't leak, but what about axially? Also do you know anywhere that has all the water lines and pump fittings? There is 2 fittings on the pump (one is missing a fitting) and 3 in the hull. What is the other one for and which goes to what?
HPIM0306.jpg
HPIM0307.jpg
07-03-2010, 10:16 PM
#100
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Location: Bangor, ME
Age: 45
Posts: 16,000
Re: Track riding
You need a 90 degree fitting for the pump with a nipple on it. It's just a brass piece with pipe thread. For hoses I used the stock ones in the pump area and the thread reinforced clear stuff like a soda machine uses in the engine bay. You can get it dirt cheap at Home Depot. I used GE Silicone II for the pump. Seal all mating surfaces with the hull and then run a bead in the gap around it and smooth it with your finger. You want to make sure no air gets into the pump cavity or it will cavitate like crazy.
There are 3 pipes through the bulk head. The hose off the pump cone goes to the water inlet for the motor. It feeds your cooling system.
The 90 degree fitting goes to the factory bilge pump under the drive shaft on the inside of the engine compartment. It's just a plastic box that sucks the water out. Make sure the hose runs high in the engine compartment before going out or you'll take on water.
The third connection comes off the bottom back side of the exhaust elbow. It gets rid of some water before it gets to the exhaust cone. There is nothing connected in the pump cavity for this one. If you have an aftermarket pipe, you may not have the water outlet which means you you have block the connection in the bulk head or use it for dual cooling.
As far as the seals, you just have the one at the bulkhead that keeps water from getting in and another where the drive shaft meets the pump. You grease the splines before you assemble it to keep corrosion out. The seal keeps the grease from getting washed away. If you have a stock aluminum prop, you need the factory seal. I have a Skat Trak SS impeller that just uses an o-ring you can get from a hardware store. The seal at the bulk head should be left loose until you get your pump in and tightened down. You're supposed to shim everything into alignment. I never bothered and don't seem to have any issues. Once everything is tight with the pump and the motor, tighten up the bulkhead seal. It should be centered on the drive shaft since there are bearings inside.
I think that's everything.
There are 3 pipes through the bulk head. The hose off the pump cone goes to the water inlet for the motor. It feeds your cooling system.
The 90 degree fitting goes to the factory bilge pump under the drive shaft on the inside of the engine compartment. It's just a plastic box that sucks the water out. Make sure the hose runs high in the engine compartment before going out or you'll take on water.
The third connection comes off the bottom back side of the exhaust elbow. It gets rid of some water before it gets to the exhaust cone. There is nothing connected in the pump cavity for this one. If you have an aftermarket pipe, you may not have the water outlet which means you you have block the connection in the bulk head or use it for dual cooling.
As far as the seals, you just have the one at the bulkhead that keeps water from getting in and another where the drive shaft meets the pump. You grease the splines before you assemble it to keep corrosion out. The seal keeps the grease from getting washed away. If you have a stock aluminum prop, you need the factory seal. I have a Skat Trak SS impeller that just uses an o-ring you can get from a hardware store. The seal at the bulk head should be left loose until you get your pump in and tightened down. You're supposed to shim everything into alignment. I never bothered and don't seem to have any issues. Once everything is tight with the pump and the motor, tighten up the bulkhead seal. It should be centered on the drive shaft since there are bearings inside.
I think that's everything.
