Question for cory
09-29-2003, 03:32 PM
#1
JUST CLOWNING!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 39
Posts: 2,296
Question for cory
i saw you make most of you own parts. (mountian dew over flow lmao) did you make your 12 bar? i am thinking about making one for my 95 900rr and also getting a crash cage any tips/tricks?
thanks
shawn
thanks
shawn
10-02-2003, 02:21 AM
#2
D-Aces Stunt Pimp
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wausau, Wisconsin
Age: 47
Posts: 406
Yes, Dan and I do all our own work to our bikes, maybe that is why we work on them all the time.
Make your bar 13 inches wide.
You want twelve O'clock or 1 inch past. The line from the center of your front axel to the center of your rear axel should be a right angel with the line from 1 to 2 inches bigger than the rim (not tire because it will flatten out in twelve) and the surface of the scrape bar.(confusing, I know)
Make sure the bar is flat side to side. Find a center point at the front of the bike (I use the middle of the steering stem) and measure from there to each end of the bar, if the distances are exactly the same on each side, your bike will sit flat, not leaning to one side.
Angle your bar so the top of it (when on two wheels) hits first. You will need to take into account that most sub frames will flex back when scraping, this will change the angle and cause your bar to scrape on the bottom surface. So sight down the surface of the bar, you will want it to sight about 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches from your rim, that should be enough to get the correct angle.
Hope this helps and makes sense.
Next you will be asking how to weld up your broken subframe and your broken tabs on the main frame. (not trying to be a dick, just telling what is to come
)
Make your bar 13 inches wide.
You want twelve O'clock or 1 inch past. The line from the center of your front axel to the center of your rear axel should be a right angel with the line from 1 to 2 inches bigger than the rim (not tire because it will flatten out in twelve) and the surface of the scrape bar.(confusing, I know)
Make sure the bar is flat side to side. Find a center point at the front of the bike (I use the middle of the steering stem) and measure from there to each end of the bar, if the distances are exactly the same on each side, your bike will sit flat, not leaning to one side.
Angle your bar so the top of it (when on two wheels) hits first. You will need to take into account that most sub frames will flex back when scraping, this will change the angle and cause your bar to scrape on the bottom surface. So sight down the surface of the bar, you will want it to sight about 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches from your rim, that should be enough to get the correct angle.
Hope this helps and makes sense.
Next you will be asking how to weld up your broken subframe and your broken tabs on the main frame. (not trying to be a dick, just telling what is to come
)
10-06-2003, 06:18 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: fort atkinson wi.
Age: 47
Posts: 4,277
Originally posted by dAcesCory
Yes, Dan and I do all our own work to our bikes, maybe that is why we work on them all the time.
Make your bar 13 inches wide.
You want twelve O'clock or 1 inch past. The line from the center of your front axel to the center of your rear axel should be a right angel with the line from 1 to 2 inches bigger than the rim (not tire because it will flatten out in twelve) and the surface of the scrape bar.(confusing, I know)
Make sure the bar is flat side to side. Find a center point at the front of the bike (I use the middle of the steering stem) and measure from there to each end of the bar, if the distances are exactly the same on each side, your bike will sit flat, not leaning to one side.
Angle your bar so the top of it (when on two wheels) hits first. You will need to take into account that most sub frames will flex back when scraping, this will change the angle and cause your bar to scrape on the bottom surface. So sight down the surface of the bar, you will want it to sight about 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches from your rim, that should be enough to get the correct angle.
Hope this helps and makes sense.
Next you will be asking how to will up your broken subframe and your broken tabs on the main frame. (not trying to be a dick, just telling what is to come )
Yes, Dan and I do all our own work to our bikes, maybe that is why we work on them all the time.
Make your bar 13 inches wide.
You want twelve O'clock or 1 inch past. The line from the center of your front axel to the center of your rear axel should be a right angel with the line from 1 to 2 inches bigger than the rim (not tire because it will flatten out in twelve) and the surface of the scrape bar.(confusing, I know)
Make sure the bar is flat side to side. Find a center point at the front of the bike (I use the middle of the steering stem) and measure from there to each end of the bar, if the distances are exactly the same on each side, your bike will sit flat, not leaning to one side.
Angle your bar so the top of it (when on two wheels) hits first. You will need to take into account that most sub frames will flex back when scraping, this will change the angle and cause your bar to scrape on the bottom surface. So sight down the surface of the bar, you will want it to sight about 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches from your rim, that should be enough to get the correct angle.
Hope this helps and makes sense.
Next you will be asking how to will up your broken subframe and your broken tabs on the main frame. (not trying to be a dick, just telling what is to come
) and 4 motors in 6 month and the list goes on
10-23-2003, 12:13 PM
#5
JUST CLOWNING!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 39
Posts: 2,296
yeah it helped i havnt had mutch time to work on it though
but thanks for asking! when summer comes we will have to go for a ride!
i noticed on not guilty you were going around corners in a stand up any tips on turning and switching lanes while mid wheelie?
but thanks for asking! when summer comes we will have to go for a ride!i noticed on not guilty you were going around corners in a stand up any tips on turning and switching lanes while mid wheelie?
10-23-2003, 10:46 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Age: 44
Posts: 102
Originally posted by 120clown
yeah it helped i havnt had mutch time to work on it though but thanks for asking! when summer comes we will have to go for a ride!
i noticed on not guilty you were going around corners in a stand up any tips on turning and switching lanes while mid wheelie?
yeah it helped i havnt had mutch time to work on it though
but thanks for asking! when summer comes we will have to go for a ride!i noticed on not guilty you were going around corners in a stand up any tips on turning and switching lanes while mid wheelie?
where do u ride at in green bay? we have spots all over...
if u wanna ride let me know... you're welcome to come out, I'll email u the spots in GB
10-24-2003, 05:37 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Wisconsin
Age: 44
Posts: 102
Originally posted by 120clown
bro! that would be great! i have so many tickets due to nowhere to ride! that would be great!!!
bro! that would be great! i have so many tickets due to nowhere to ride! that would be great!!!
we're riding tonite. If u wanna roll send me an email and I'll let u know where it's at.
jason
LooseScrewXtreme@aol.com
10-28-2003, 05:19 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Denver, CO
Age: 41
Posts: 54
I had a couple questions for you as well, I noticed you built rearsets for your tl. I have broken three rear sets on my tl doing 180 stoppies (snapped around the peg on the bracket when I came down). I was wondering why you built yours. I can see that you reinforced them to the subframe, but I can not tell where you mounted them. I'm sick of breaking mine, and I'm thinking about building something like yours. I was wondering if you could tell me how you designed yours.
Thanks
[line]
Brownie
DSF Riders
TLS & TLS
Thanks
[line]
Brownie
DSF Riders
TLS & TLS
10-28-2003, 11:44 PM
#10
D-Aces Stunt Pimp
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wausau, Wisconsin
Age: 47
Posts: 406
I did build the right side rearset, I only did it because my tabs broke off of the frame so I had to make them mount a different way. I do not recommend it, if you do try, make it so that the rearsets will break before the tabs on the frame do. Those rods are not supports for my rearsets, it is the other way, the rods are to support my subframe.
The biggest thing that will stop your rearsets from braking is to put a puck on the low part of the frame under the brake and shifter. I will get pics in a day or so of what I did. I think this is obvious but don't use solid mount pegs either.
The biggest thing that will stop your rearsets from braking is to put a puck on the low part of the frame under the brake and shifter. I will get pics in a day or so of what I did. I think this is obvious but don't use solid mount pegs either.
11-10-2003, 06:37 PM
#16
JUST CLOWNING!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 39
Posts: 2,296
Originally posted by dAcesCory
My bad, I forgot to get the pics. I am in CA till Tuesday for the IMS show, I will try to get you them middle of next week.
My bad, I forgot to get the pics. I am in CA till Tuesday for the IMS show, I will try to get you them middle of next week.
just kidding looking forword to seeing those pics!
11-15-2003, 02:18 PM
#17
D-Aces Stunt Pimp
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wausau, Wisconsin
Age: 47
Posts: 406
Sorry it took so long to post pics, been busy. The following pics are the pucs under the pegs. Since I put these on I have not busted any pegs or anything.
This is how I did it: bla bla bla
One is made out of UHMW, (the stuff all pucs are made of) I would not make it out of that because they ware out really fast being down there. I made one out of steel, it slides on the ground just as good and it does not ware out. I used a pipe cap, welded a peice of steel to it. Get a hardend coarse thread allen bolt to mount it. Then drill the pipe cap big enough so the head of the bolt will go through, and drill the welded peice of steel so the head does not go through. I put that aluminum plate under it because it helps to prevent the puc and allen bolt from just bending up and braking. Make it so that it butts up with the top part of the frame as seen in the pic. Then drill and tap the aluminum in the main frame to bolt everything to. The aluminum is thin at that part of the frame, if everything is made without any slop it will be strong.
This might work too:
Weld a aluminum block on the frame were I have mine bolted on. Tap into that block and mount your puc to that.
Let me know how it goes.
This is how I did it: bla bla bla
One is made out of UHMW, (the stuff all pucs are made of) I would not make it out of that because they ware out really fast being down there. I made one out of steel, it slides on the ground just as good and it does not ware out. I used a pipe cap, welded a peice of steel to it. Get a hardend coarse thread allen bolt to mount it. Then drill the pipe cap big enough so the head of the bolt will go through, and drill the welded peice of steel so the head does not go through. I put that aluminum plate under it because it helps to prevent the puc and allen bolt from just bending up and braking. Make it so that it butts up with the top part of the frame as seen in the pic. Then drill and tap the aluminum in the main frame to bolt everything to. The aluminum is thin at that part of the frame, if everything is made without any slop it will be strong.
This might work too:
Weld a aluminum block on the frame were I have mine bolted on. Tap into that block and mount your puc to that.
Let me know how it goes.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
