you could make small body parts like trick lookin intake covers for f4i's where the old duct covers went, know what im sayin? get rid of those empty spots on the front of the tank

 

I just want a billet aluminum easy pull clutch perch and lever

Someone please make it already.

 

I notice everyone running without an upper zip ties their gauge cluster to the frame or wherever it will be out of the way..... Maybe a bracket for it would make it look pimping clean? Heel gaurds with different symbols, like FTP or whatnot (maybe a Durren heelgaurd LOL).....

I'm gonna think about ABS and go look at my bikes, and maybe come up with more ideas. I'd love to help!

 

cheaply priced undertails
colored non transparent windscreens for the ff crowd
bar ends
extended sliders for the street
self adhesive 905 cage caps(for the bars we hit shins on)
seat cowls
headlight cover plates (fill the open space when u take your headlight out)

 

There's a few good ideas there.

 

I work in a body shop, and 3M makes some good **** for fixing plastic. You MUST figure out what type of plastic it is first (ABS, TPO, PP, EPDM, etc..) then follow the repair procedures. We fix our plastics instead of buying them, and my friend w/ a daytona 600 lowsided a right hander onto already re-built plastic, and the breakage was in a new area with rash all over the first repair... I don't mean we put an inch of **** on there either. Just proper surface prep, adhesion promoter (as necessary), mesh reinforcement in the repair material, and 3mm or less of build on the inside.

some 3M part numbers:
08235 + 08239 + 04240 for repair (each for diff application)
05887 + 05885 to smooth out the surface.
use 3M 05907 for adhesion promoter on TPO
use 06396 for adhesion promoter on PP EP EPDM (this is like a wet wipe in a little package)
Urethane "plastics" suck to fix... luckily that heavy **** isn't really used on modern bikes.

plastic type code is almost always cast into the part somewhere. other wise put it in water, if it floats, treat it like TPO, if it sinks treat it like PP

 

I like the undertail idea, but what if Nags worked with Ian to develop undertails that are pre-clearanced for round bars so you only had to trim a little bit of the tail plastics and the taillight is replaced with some good looking brakelight/ turnsignals? Or put an inserts in the tool so you canget them without any brakelights or turnsignals at all for lot bikes. 03-04 636, f4i, 929, 954.

 

oh yeah, you treat ABS, and Xenoy like TPO

 

Those are actually some pretty decent ideas.

 

the upper stay mounts to the frame, and the frame tabs are kinda rough when you cram wires right near them and stuff a acerbis headlight on there, maybe a smooth cover for the frame tabs so your harness doesnt get eaten up, maybe? hmm? A-D-D kickin in gotta stop posting

 

Didn't read all of the post so far but what about:

Make a replacement pass seat with a hole and step already molded for your foot and maybe a peice that comes down to meet the front seat like a tail saver would do but mounting from the top instead of bottom.

It would be an instant replacement for a stock seat and be a tail saver reinforcement at the same time. Easy to make a mold of all bikes passenger seat to build off of I would think.

 

I think you should get the most popular items for an IE like ho heys rearsets , handbrake ,clip ons, SI roundbar and cage much more.

 

What?

 

i'd buy 2

 

i don't get it

 

I thought about that but I don't think anything would be as solid as a stock rear seat with the gangster metal brackets and what not.. Plus everyone likes there holes a little different

 

I


Sorry bout the thread jacking nags. but this is a lot of info to process

I hear you on that, my brother also works in a body shop and we have explored almost every option that he had available. Though I will double check some of the numbers above tonight.

I've gone down the road with a bunch of 3m industrial techs about repair and no procedure or compound they have come up with have worked satisfactorally. Ive done it all with 3m some SEM products, plastic weld, plastic weld with some of the same plastic, melt in wire mesh etc and I still can't get a bond that is as good as the original formulation.

I think it's because is the ABS / Polycarbonate blend they use, the polycarbonate I think is predominantly the problem with the bonding process.

 

The "hook" on my rear seat is already plastic and the part that locks it in is bolted on couldn't you make it with a threaded sleeve inside so you could bolt the stock lock tab things on? (hope that made some kinda sence)

 

already said but radiator braces and cheap sliders to fit all cages. si cage sliders are rediculously expensive for a piece of plastic

 

right-o. repaired plastic is Not as good as never broken pastic...