I can get it cheap , does anyone know how it works
What mean 19, and what 16
http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInf...ctid=X10.48.50

 

http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/radialbrakes.php Here you go this article is an awsome write up on radial masters

 

That will work but its not the best Brembo bore/pivot size for a hand brake...

From what everyone here says the 16x18 is the best size, I just bough one and havent been able to test it out...But just playing with it, it feels very nice and better then the GSXR radial I had before it.....

The first number is the bore size in mm, the 2nd number is the distance between the pivot point and the push rod in mm.....So that master your looking at has too big of a piston size......Ive used the 19x20 and it works but has no feel to it, its either on or off full power and is very hard to modulate pressure.

Are you sure the one you can get cheap is a 19x16? Just askin cause that size is rare around here.....Most guys buy either 19x20 or 19x18 for racing or street bikes

 

**** it than =) must buy 16/18

 

Totally different feel, the 16x18 has better feel and gives more feedback
the bigger bores like 18 and 19 are very stiff and just on or off, no feel

 

buuut the 18x19 is supposed to be an awsome upgrade for the front brakes right, since theres 2 calipers and you need more force? At least thats my undersatnding
18x19 for front bnrakes, 16x18 for hand brake for the best setup..

 

For dual caliper front brakes everyone uses either the 19x18 or 19x20, those are the most popular sizes used for front brakes on modern sport bikes.....

 

i have used most of them and the 16 x18 by far feels the best , that is the one ment for single caliper versus dual caliper , the 16x19 16 x20 is for dual caliper set ups ,

 

you got that a little mixed up there is no such "16x19 16 x20", only sizes availible in a 16 bore is 16x16 or 16x18 and both those are designed for single caliper front brakes.....Or clutches

Other then those sizes there are 19x16 19x18 19x20 and those are all designed for 2 caliper front bakes setups....

 

woudn't a 19/16 be the key for peeps havin power issues on theyre HB? with such a short distance between pivot and bore, must get much power quickly right?

 

ok my bad i am sure your right but 16 x 18 works fo shizzle

 

anyone running the 16x18 with the full throttle rear master, a buddy of mine has it and he cant get the last bit of air out so u have to pump it once to get it back to normal...its has alot of feel, tons of squish in the lever, but it still works real good, which is wat i like about it...anyone kno how to get the air out or shud i jsut deal with it

 

Aw thanks little buddy...you are trying to help out on my little problem.

 

I just did that exact setup Brembo 16x18 with FT master on my 636, didnt have a problem bleeding it but Ive become a pro and bleeding HB's. I dont use a VAC and do it the old fashion way with some clear hose on the caliper and some patience......Sometimes I do have to take the bike for a spin and some wheelies to loosen up air bubbles stuck in the system. Then once I do that they come right out on the rebleed Other then that all I can suggest is tap the lines jiggle things around to try and free up the stuck bubbles....

That squish you mentioned is what I consider "feel" I can pull mine in just a bit and it will lock the wheel, then from there you have about 1/2" of modulation(squish) in the pressure......The 19x20 setup I did is like a rock and the lever has no feel(squish) at all

 

yah that squish is feel thats what i should have said, but right now i use the 954 master and FT rear, and its hard as rock but works dam good...my hand gets tiredthough, so ive been thinking bout switchin to a radial, and when i used the 16x18 it had alot of feel and squish to it, but had more power then my 954 master..

when u say u bleed the old fashioned way u mean pump the hb, crack the bleeder on the caliper?...also when u bled it did u bleed it in the hb position, or have the 16x18 right side up?

 

sorry i cant...i think they make pills for that though

 

I had to start it right side up because it wouldnt start pumping fluid upside down, but as soon as it started pushing fuild and a little came out the rear caliper bleed screw I turned it back upside down....Try and keep the res as full as possible when bleeding it, and try it with the cap on the res not open...Sometimes their just a bitch and that last bubble takes forever, then you get it out and its perfect...

And yes I do it that way pump pump pump, hold, open bleeder, let the lever go almost to the bar, close bleeder, repeat.......

 

i had the same problem with my brembo (i pump hesitation), but i was running an adaptor not FT. i fixed my problem by pumping up the hand brake and footbrake at the same time then while holding pressure on the footbrake use the handbrake to bleed (if that makes any sense).

-the mexican

 

When you guys bleed your hand brakes, do you just bleed it at the 1 bleeder screw on the caliper?

Or do you bleed it at every cable connection?

I just installed my hb like a month ago, shindy 14mm master with a hai junction peice..

I had no problem getting all the air out in about 10 minutes.. No pump up, I could go out there right now after not riding for 2 weeks, and the brake is solid..
But I also bled it up at the master cylinder, then down at the junction valve, then going into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper itself...

 

i have done both < top and bottom bleeds and really they both end up the same no matter what , but i do always end up at the handbrake itslef