I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,778
From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by Puer
But if the rotor and pads heat up form excessive use you'll still have the same pickel of a situation happening
Very true. Hot rotors/pads cause a "Gas pocket" to form on your contact surface therby reducing friction. That's the purpose of drilled and slotted rotors on race cars
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 181
From: Sin City
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by mnchvgs79
I guess you could be right... but I was under the impression it was the actual fluid losing viscosity from the heat.
I'd like to be 100% sure but I'm not so anybody else cares to chip in (don't mean to hijack the thread) but I think it's important to know
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Sin City
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by mnchvgs79
Very true. Hot rotors/pads cause a "Gas pocket" to form on your contact surface therby reducing friction. That's the purpose of drilled and slotted rotors on race cars
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,778
From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by xtremehakeem
But does the same principle applies to bikes!!!!
Absolutely. From Brembo's website:
Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
- The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.
- The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.
- Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures
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From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
More:
What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that should not be used with a drilled disc.
Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?
The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).
What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that should not be used with a drilled disc.
Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?
The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Deewhy
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
if theres are holes in your rotors there there for cooling purposes thats why wavie dirlled rotors are more expencive.. But no matter what there sill going to warp the rotor glase the pads if your constantly riding them Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,778
From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Info on Brake fade from EBC's site:
BRAKE FADE EXPLAINED
All pads contain some organic (living) materials. Resins that bind pad compounds together are organic - petro-chemical products. As these overheat the resins revert to gas and cause the pads to “aquaplane” on a gas film which is called fade. Some pads only fade once or twice and then settle down (Green fade or bedding in fade). Other, cheaper pads suffer from continual dynamic fade, sometimes at surprisingly low temperatures.
BRAKE TEMPERATURES
Temperatures between the pad and disc do not normally exceed 700°F even in heavy street use. In race use 900-1200°F is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup race temps. shoot up to around 1500°F where discs will glow red or orange.
ALWAYS CHOOSE A PAD ADEQUATE FOR YOUR NEEDS. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you’re a hot shot. Many/most race pads need “warm up” and don’t become effective till 350°F.
NOT ideal for a stoplight situation in urban traffic.
EBC Greenstuff is effective from cold and needs no warm up. Even so EBC Green feels stronger as you use the brake harder. We call that progressive braking.
All pads contain some organic (living) materials. Resins that bind pad compounds together are organic - petro-chemical products. As these overheat the resins revert to gas and cause the pads to “aquaplane” on a gas film which is called fade. Some pads only fade once or twice and then settle down (Green fade or bedding in fade). Other, cheaper pads suffer from continual dynamic fade, sometimes at surprisingly low temperatures.
BRAKE TEMPERATURES
Temperatures between the pad and disc do not normally exceed 700°F even in heavy street use. In race use 900-1200°F is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup race temps. shoot up to around 1500°F where discs will glow red or orange.
ALWAYS CHOOSE A PAD ADEQUATE FOR YOUR NEEDS. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you’re a hot shot. Many/most race pads need “warm up” and don’t become effective till 350°F.
NOT ideal for a stoplight situation in urban traffic.
EBC Greenstuff is effective from cold and needs no warm up. Even so EBC Green feels stronger as you use the brake harder. We call that progressive braking.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,778
From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
This is an EXCELLENT read if you have the time, you'll know everything there is to know about brakes when you're done:
http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html
http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 181
From: Sin City
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by mnchvgs79
This is an EXCELLENT read if you have the time, you'll know everything there is to know about brakes when you're done:
http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html
http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html
Very good post, thanks for taking the time to do the rechearch
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 181
From: Sin City
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by mnchvgs79
Yeah, sorry about the thread jack. 
) 
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From: Dallas,TX
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Everybody is wrong in this thread. Brake fades because your DOT Brake fluid has a set boiling point. Every bottle a written spec of where it boils at on the back label read it. Buy MOTUL RBF600 Racing brake fluid it boils at like 5 or 600 degrees F where regular stock crap boils lower like at 300 F.
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From: Dallas,TX
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
all bike rotors are drilled so thats no question and steel lines help but stock rubber lines don't really flex and bulge that bad that it should affect you in any way--i rode around with rubber stock lines for a long time never had problems at all.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 553
From: NW Indiana
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
As time goes by moisture inevitably enters the brake system. Brake fade is caused by extreme heat in the fluid (in the rear caliper and going up the line) causing any moisture in the fluid to boil (Hence the phrase boiling your brakes) and creating a pocket of air in the line allowing your pedal to go all the way to the mechanical stop with no additional braking force created. This is why periodically flushing your fluid is a good idea. I generally flush mine every few months, or when I notice my pedal getting softer after using the rear brake heavily.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 181
From: Sin City
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by Armenian
Everybody is wrong in this thread. Brake fades because your DOT Brake fluid has a set boiling point. Every bottle a written spec of where it boils at on the back label read it. Buy MOTUL RBF600 Racing brake fluid it boils at like 5 or 600 degrees F where regular stock crap boils lower like at 300 F.
and you are right because!!!!! read the link mnchvgs79
posted, the brake fluid might contribute but is not the only culprit
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,778
From: Nash-Lantic City, NH
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Originally Posted by xtremehakeem
and you are right because!!!!! read the link mnchvgs79
posted, the brake fluid might contribute but is not the only culprit
posted, the brake fluid might contribute but is not the only culprit
right, it is not the only thing that causes it, but in our application, it's definitely the main reason for brake fade.
Came back-it's still wack
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,863
From: Roanoke, VA
Re: I Need Advice In How To Loose Fear
Man... I GOT your solution...FU(K all these ***** giving you advice...just drink 3 forties then do whatever you are afraid of.
It worked for me.
Hang out with me and crack a fortie sometime and I'll make most of these ****ers look like Don Knotts.
It worked for me.
Hang out with me and crack a fortie sometime and I'll make most of these ****ers look like Don Knotts.
