cause u weren't holding it HIGH, take it off the damn clip on. Hold it right side UP.. have some one hold the RESI north of the MC and tilt the MC to where the air could ESCAPE to the Hose that LEADS to the resi, pump the MC Lever then hold a pump completely down and WATCH the bubbles BILLOW out from the MC Resi.. Takes a Secound for the bubbles to start Flowing, BUT HAVE PATIENTS

After u get alot of Bubbles Pump the rear brake lever, then pump the HB and hold it closed n have some one crack the bleeder on the rear caliper. then pump some more then hold the lever on the MC closed again and crack the MC Bleeder.. it will Squirt like a ***** so watch ur damn eyes

 

I'll try again tommorow but I really just think the master is f*cked

 

i know another person who thinks there's is to.. u realize that the only way a "master cylinder" could be ****ed is if the seals are bad.. which that might be the case if u put it in a open fire a hour or some other kinda haness act.. M/C's have 2 little o-ring style gaskets, one is on the front of the rod which cause's the push/compression, which to make it "push/compress" requires brake fluid in front of it.. no brake fluid infront of the seal it will NOT expand and compress what is infront of it. thus is why motorcycles use Dot 4 brake fluid..

Here you go. this is a 01 R6 rear brake M/C... same set-up/function as the radial Different cast M/C and rod/seal/Bore size.

 

The only reason I was leaning towards a bad master was cuz this came off a bike with front end damage.. one of the bolts that connect to the "C" piece on the clipon was snapped off and the lever was snapped pretty badly

 

this m/c sat in az heat in the SUN with no dot4 in it and went thru rain, works perfect still

 

on your bleeder screw... do you have any teflon tape or some type of locktite so air can't get past the threads???

I've had this happen w/ stock bleeder screws and it looks like it's sucking mad air.... i only use speed-bleeders now... they come pre-locktited and are a breeze to use.

FWIW.... I got the best bleed ever from hookin up the vac opening the bleeder on the rear caliper and goin through about a bottle of some cheap $4 fluid... then letting it sit for a while... then tap on all the lines w/ a screwdriver, starting from the rear caliper all the way up to the hb makin sure to correct any spots that slope downward (even by taking off the rear master and turnin it upside down and sh*t).... then opening the hb bleeder screw(and turnin that all different directions, all while the resi was up and level) and hooking the vac to that for a bit.... THEN... take out the good $15 a bottle RBF600, adding that to the resi and pumpin it all the way through the system w/ only the rear caliper bleeder open. My levers are rock solid... foot and hand.

If you touch the rear lever AT ALL during the whole process, for some reason it creates bubbles like a ****.... when I asked Bill a while back he said don't touch the lever, only the hb lever to pump. Don't remember why. THIS IS ALL W/ A FULL THROTTLE SETUP BTW.

 

A cbr1000rr radial pump...:YEAH

 

You should never have to seal the threads on a bleeder, they arent designed to seal from the threads. If you pull it all the way out you'll notice the bottom is cone shaped, that creates the seal when its tightened and pushed into the MC..... If you over thighten them the MC gets all messed up and they dont want to seal anymore.

 

Then why do most factory bleeders come w/ sealant tape on the threads?

What I'm talkin about it when you open it up, and use your mighty vac or what ever you use... if the threads are not sealed, air can get sucked past them, creating a bubble effect w/ the fluid your pulling, which LOOKS like you have air in the lines... but it's just coming from a leaky bleeder.

 

Never on any of my bikes and if there was then it would be to lock the bleeder so it doesnt vibrate loose(thread locker not sealer). As I said the seal is not made from the threads, the cone pressing into the caliper creates the seal. Any sealer or tape could contaminate the brake fluid...That little amount of fluid that leaks there doesnt affect bleeding anyways, atleast for me. I bleed everything by hand(no vac) and HB take less then half the time to bleed compared to front brakes, no more then 10-20min and you should have it bleed %100 or your doin it wrong or have a leak....I cant believe some people waste so much fluid to bleed.

 

Yes... I know how the bleeder seals.... thats not what I'm talking about... what I'm talkin about it when you crack it open.

If your using a vac... air can get sucked past the threads, then out the bleeder hole... mixing w/ fluid, making it look like you have tons of air in the system.

I dont know what system your runnin... but on the full throttle, there's lots of little places for small amounts of air to get trapped (ie, 4 banjos, 2 masters, 2 lines, 1 caliper). I waste the cheap fluid cause it's cheap.

And I like piece of mind of a completely air-less, rock hard system, so time make s no difference.

my - a front system is WAAAAAY easier and quicker to bleed then the hb.... it's all straight vertical. 10min topps.

 

FT setup on my bike no VAC bleeder and its hard as a rock, and Id love to know how a 2 line setup for front brakes is easier to bleed than an inline HB system where you only have to bleed from one caliper? In my part of the world beeding a one caliper system is faster than bleeding 2

Im not going to debate with you because you obviously dont know what your doin if you use a full bottle of fluid to bleed a HB, no matter how cheap the fluid is... less than 1/2 a bottle does HB and front brakes, any more and you dont know what your doin PERIOD. Sure you probably get the job done but theres no need to waste that amount of time and fluid....

 

Your right, I don't know what I'm doing. But your still from canada.

I do know that bleeding front brakes is tit.... open one bleedr, su(k fluid through... open the other su(k it through. Open the master bleedr (or just crack the banjo it you dont have a bleeder up there), pump remaining air and your done. Quick, easy and yes, less then half a bottle of fluid.

Fronts aren't as critical to get as complete of a bleed... you've got 8 pistons and 2 rotors, a little air isn't gonna be a big deal.

I have no problem w/ the hb... never did.... but there are TONS of threads on here about people having lots of trouble getting all the air out of they're systems, so they don't have a mushy lever.

It's obvious that you are just not getting what I'm saying, cause all you keep trying to tell me how bleeder screws work and how I don't know what I'm doing cause I waste some fluid.

Yes, I said "about a bottle"... I have a cheap bottle of prestone dot4 that they sell at freekin CVS for $3.99 (thats 4.65 canadian), that I used up getting ALL the bubbles out of my system. If it makes you feel better it wasn't completely full.

My point was to not waste the expensive stuff... get off your high horse. Do you not waste any fluid as you bleed? I'm tryin to help people out here... JEEEZ

Heres a bleedr straight outta a 954 caliper. And btw... teflon tape is never used to keep things from vibrating... it's a SEALANT.

 

Well.. had a friend help me tonight.. spent about an hour bleeding it... still not a drop of pressure.. pretty sure the master is bad

 

I got the GP fitting on my 636. Took about 10 minutes to bleed by hand--works marvelous!

-Alvin

 

try another master, grab one off ur other bikes just to see if thats the problem

 

the 954 master I just took off worked sick with no problems at all

-nags

 

anyone got a cbr1k master for sale?

 

put that in ur sig, it works really well for getting parts

 

"Your right, I don't know what I'm doing. But your still from canada."

That shows exactly just how intellegent you are right there, Im from Canada so that makes me what? Your from the US so your automatically better at everything right? Whos on the High horse now?

"Fronts aren't as critical to get as complete of a bleed... you've got 8 pistons and 2 rotors, a little air isn't gonna be a big deal."

OoooooK! front brakes arent as critical as a rear brakes......Im not even going to touch that one your stupidity speaks for itself on that one...I'll just say I bleed everything properly and %100

I will stand by my opinion If you have to run even half a bottle through your lines to bleed you either dont know what your doin or have a leak! Go to a shop and ask them what they do...I know I would be asking questions if on the invoice I was charged for 2 bottles of fluid 1 cheap stuff and 1 good stuff.

And I'll say this one more time "you probably get the job done but theres no need to waste that much fluid and time"....