nope fab no one does you have to keep on doing what your doing
we slot our own too then get the degree wheel out
addict you still dont comprehende what i typed and youve now repeated yourself like you said your not a 50 guy so stfu
the plug is black DOES mean something
i dont drag race,where you got that from only you know
when you can answer my simpleton questions you may respond
your a stump its okay i understand but dont coment on what i say when you yourself say you dont know ****, talking out your *** again
oh and i know what I have
i said IF he had a stock set up, the needle is in the middle thats twice ive told you that now third graders get that but apperently you dont why is that
my nine year old at least knows the answers to the questions i asked

 

a proper plug chop will show different than if you just take out the plug and look at it, it can be misleading.
asking about plug temerature and cam timing, i dont know that stuff because i have no need to know, its USELESS information unless your a drag racer fine tuning for that extra .03 of a second.
JUST READ HOW YOUR FIRST POST COMES ACROSS!!! THATS WHAT IM GOING OFF OF!
are you talking stock carb settings? it seems like your advising to me
hahahhahahhaa
im done with you
stik6shift93, how is it running now?

 

good

do you want a motor that runs at top end or one that runs with alot of bottom end
thats what the cam stuff helps produce the correct power curve or power band as some may call it ,so cam timing isnt usless along with other factors such as timing, mine has points so i can make it fire where i want it too its an older 4 speed sl 70 motor and another factor of timing is the advancer, and you can vary that by the springs you put on it,but you cant do that with the xr's unless you have an inner rotor kit thats adjustable like a kitaco
so here the answers to your simpleton questions
you set the point timing at the f mark (1 degree advance for bottom end,2 degree retard for top end,I just eyeball it and call it a stump hair either way) , point gap is .0013
cam timing is + or - 3 degrees (for bottom +, for top -) this can be different depending on the cam you use we usually clay the squish band to determine
how much we can get away with, for mine i use not the degreed cam sproket, the cam i have is plenty for the stock head
plug temp at the head 265-285 degrees @90 degrees ambient temp depending on the fuel you run ,and the plug you run ,and temp testing is better than plug readings them days are gone,i dont have to pull a plug to tell if its lean or fat just read the temp it tells all
mine is set up for bottom end same thing you want for stunting
allthought my only stunt is crashing

 

still runs like ****, haven't really touched it since it's cold out here now.