cam chain help!
05-19-2003, 10:19 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Oswego, IL
Posts: 1,613
F4i right? What a pain in the ***, I'm ready to replace mine for the second time. The only problem w/ the manual ones, you have to remember to tighten it all the time. Check with Honda and you might not have to spend a dime! 
05-20-2003, 12:50 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Aurora, Illinois
Posts: 1,902
I replaced mine today. Best $50 I ever spent!!!!!!! Buy one from A.P.E. ( http://www.aperaceparts.com/ ) They are about the best from what I hear (and I did my homework) and they are a breeze to deal with. Definately go with a MANUAL cam chain adjuster. Everytime you get off the gas the automatic ones allow your cam chain to go slack briefly causing your piston to tap your valves eventually bending them. The manual cam chain adjuster keeps a steady pressure on the chain keeping that from happening.
1) Remove tank from bike
2) Remove 2 5mm hex head screws from cam adjuster housing (on gixxers anyways)
3) Pull out automatic adjust and throw it as far as humanly possible away from your bike
4) Put manual adjuster in bike using new gasket (also available from A.P.E.) and stock screws
5) Tighten it up most of the way
6) Start bike if sound is worse turn it off and tighten it more
7) When sound goes away tighten jam nut and ride
8) If idle drops you tightened it too far / back it off a bit
1) Remove tank from bike
2) Remove 2 5mm hex head screws from cam adjuster housing (on gixxers anyways)
3) Pull out automatic adjust and throw it as far as humanly possible away from your bike
4) Put manual adjuster in bike using new gasket (also available from A.P.E.) and stock screws
5) Tighten it up most of the way
6) Start bike if sound is worse turn it off and tighten it more
7) When sound goes away tighten jam nut and ride
8) If idle drops you tightened it too far / back it off a bit
05-20-2003, 12:53 AM
#6
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Location: Aurora, Illinois
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Originally posted by Papa Kev
The only problem w/ the manual ones, you have to remember to tighten it all the time.
The only problem w/ the manual ones, you have to remember to tighten it all the time.
You should only have to tighten it as the cam chain stretches and if you put on a manual adjuster, it will help to prevent stretching of the chain therefore, keeping you from doing just that.
05-20-2003, 04:48 AM
#7
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Location: Gainesville, FL
Age: 41
Posts: 278
Originally posted by Shaggy
Everytime you get off the gas the automatic ones allow your cam chain to go slack briefly causing your piston to tap your valves eventually bending them. The manual cam chain adjuster keeps a steady pressure on the chain keeping that from happening.
Everytime you get off the gas the automatic ones allow your cam chain to go slack briefly causing your piston to tap your valves eventually bending them. The manual cam chain adjuster keeps a steady pressure on the chain keeping that from happening.
It wouldn't "eventually" bend valves, it would do it right away.
Also, the tensioner is there to tension the chain to keep it from hopping teeth on the cam sprockets. Everything is still turning, so your chain is still turning too. It doesn't matter if there's slack or not when the gears turn it around. When it jumps a tooth is when you run into pistons hitting valves.
Anyway, you really don't have to adjust the APE units very often from what I hear.
05-20-2003, 02:21 PM
#11
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Location: Aurora, Illinois
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Originally posted by smb123
I don't think I believe your info.
It wouldn't "eventually" bend valves, it would do it right away.
Also, the tensioner is there to tension the chain to keep it from hopping teeth on the cam sprockets. Everything is still turning, so your chain is still turning too. It doesn't matter if there's slack or not when the gears turn it around. When it jumps a tooth is when you run into pistons hitting valves.
Anyway, you really don't have to adjust the APE units very often from what I hear.
I don't think I believe your info.
It wouldn't "eventually" bend valves, it would do it right away.
Also, the tensioner is there to tension the chain to keep it from hopping teeth on the cam sprockets. Everything is still turning, so your chain is still turning too. It doesn't matter if there's slack or not when the gears turn it around. When it jumps a tooth is when you run into pistons hitting valves.
Anyway, you really don't have to adjust the APE units very often from what I hear.
05-20-2003, 06:14 PM
#12
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think how much slack there would have to be in your chain in order for the timing to vary far enough for the valves to hit the pistons. i've never heard of this actually happening(not saying that it can't). 
anyway i wish that i had known about how often the tensioners go out in the f4i's or i would have bought a manual one.
anyway i wish that i had known about how often the tensioners go out in the f4i's or i would have bought a manual one. 
05-24-2003, 10:58 AM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Age: 49
Posts: 193
You should see if you could retro a tensioner from a Kawasaki ZX6R. It is designed with teeth that keep it from backing out and require no adjustement. It is one cool lil piece of engineering.
05-24-2003, 06:07 PM
#15
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All right ya got me scared now had mine replaced (warranty) with Honda's new c.c.t they said it was suppose to fix the problem they have been having with these. Bout m.f time but it is still jacked they have had this problem for atleast last two years and still cant figure it out.Now I have to go back to dealer and have another one put in and be without my bike once again.Good idea bout using the kawi ones I hear those r the $hit.Oh well I'll keep taking it back till its right but I'm bout to postal on these bastards after two years you would figure they'd get it right.I just hope it hasent done any permanent damage to my crunchy baby. HONDA
HONDA 
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