Installed jet kit, runs like shit, help!!
02-23-2003, 03:45 AM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: IL
Age: 42
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Installed jet kit, runs like ****, help!! I installed a Dynojet jet kit this weekend on my '01 R6 and now after putting everything back together, it runs like ****. Sounds like a lawnmower, runs kinda rough. Any ideas what the problem might be? Could it be the clamp between the carbs and intake? I was only able to reach 2 out of the 4. Think maybe it's sucking in air thru the other 2 that aren't tightened very well? I knew things were going way to well when everything was installed and put back together in under 2 hours... Help please, very frustrated!
02-24-2003, 08:11 PM
#4
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: orlando,FL
Age: 47
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if it sounds like it is hitting on the cylinders unevenly itis most likly the carb boots " it will run very lean like that"
if u think it is running rich check and make sure u got the floats in right and the hight is adjusted right.
the float thing could cause either rich or a lean condition so if u do not see a leak right away on the boots go to the floats next..
hope this helps you
if u think it is running rich check and make sure u got the floats in right and the hight is adjusted right.
the float thing could cause either rich or a lean condition so if u do not see a leak right away on the boots go to the floats next..
hope this helps you
02-25-2003, 12:08 AM
#5
florida! finally
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: clearwater fl
Age: 42
Posts: 4,882
have you ever done this before? do you know how to sync your carbs?
If you have answered no to either of these questions........TAKE YOUR BIKE TO A DEALERSHIP OF A GOOD MECHANIC.
If you have answered no to either of these questions........TAKE YOUR BIKE TO A DEALERSHIP OF A GOOD MECHANIC.
Last edited by Nate-VMC; 02-25-2003 at 12:11 AM.
02-25-2003, 05:24 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
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There are a lot of things to say here.
First, you made a mistake going with Dynojet. The reason is that with the R6, the main air and pilot air jets are pressed into the carb bodies. To properly rejet the bike, these really need to be addressed. There are two kits that do so: Ivans (ivansperformanceproducts.com) and the Factory Pro 1.7. Both are basically a full carb rebuild. They require drilling the above jets out, tapping the carbs, and putting in the supplied jets. The drill bit and tap you need should be supplied with both kits -- I know they are with Ivan's kit because I have it. Really, a night and day difference. Also, Ivan's needles are probably the best out there. His attention to detail is what really makes his kit shine, aside from the thoroughness of it. For example, the shims (washers) he includes are very 'expensive' washers because they are VERY precise. They cost about 5x the amount that Dynjojets shims cost. Also, Ivan will provide all his own tech support via phone.
Now, onto the other stuff...
As already asked, are all 4 cylinders firing, or less? If you're not sure, let the bike warm up. Then, take a damp paper towel and press it against the 4 primaries on your header. If one or more is cold, you're not firing on all 4. The first thing I'd check here is that your plugs are all good and the coils are on correctly. I don't know why you'd have touched these, but hey, maybe you knocked a coil loose. If that doesn't do the trick, you should test your coils. A huge problem with the R6 is that when the coils fail, they still like to be within spec according to the manual. Download the service manual from www.yzfr6.net. Easy way to test is swapping coils around or taking the plug out with coil attached and grounding it and seeing if it sparks.
Next up.. what's it sound like when you rev it? Does it hang up in the RPMs and slooowwly come back down? If so, your problem is a vacuum leak. Solution: pull everything back apart and put it all back together. It's VERY easy to get a vacuum leak or a crimped vacuum hose when working on the R6 carbs -- trust me, I know! Make sure everything is hooked back up properly and that the carbs are FIRMLY seated in the boots and that the airbox is FIRMLY seated as well. It's VERY easy to not seat the carbs correctly. And yes, it's tricky to get to those clamps that hold the carbs down. Long, ball-end allen keys are what you need.
BUT, if it doesn't do the above (hang up in the RPMs), I don't know what to tell you. But I can give you a hint. The bike is running lean if you give it some gas and the revs fall back down to JUST above idle and then eases back to idle (different than the vacuum problem where the RPMs just float and take a long time to work back down). It's rich if you blip the throttle and the revs dip just below idle and then climb back up to normal idle.
Anyway, you're gonna probably have to take the carbs back off no matter what. I honestly feel like Dynojet is not the way to go. It might produce similar peak power, but it will just not run 'right.' If you want to know more about this stuff, call Ivan and talk to him (he's an honest, level headed guy) or call/email Factory Pro as they also have exceptional customer support.
First, you made a mistake going with Dynojet. The reason is that with the R6, the main air and pilot air jets are pressed into the carb bodies. To properly rejet the bike, these really need to be addressed. There are two kits that do so: Ivans (ivansperformanceproducts.com) and the Factory Pro 1.7. Both are basically a full carb rebuild. They require drilling the above jets out, tapping the carbs, and putting in the supplied jets. The drill bit and tap you need should be supplied with both kits -- I know they are with Ivan's kit because I have it. Really, a night and day difference. Also, Ivan's needles are probably the best out there. His attention to detail is what really makes his kit shine, aside from the thoroughness of it. For example, the shims (washers) he includes are very 'expensive' washers because they are VERY precise. They cost about 5x the amount that Dynjojets shims cost. Also, Ivan will provide all his own tech support via phone.
Now, onto the other stuff...
As already asked, are all 4 cylinders firing, or less? If you're not sure, let the bike warm up. Then, take a damp paper towel and press it against the 4 primaries on your header. If one or more is cold, you're not firing on all 4. The first thing I'd check here is that your plugs are all good and the coils are on correctly. I don't know why you'd have touched these, but hey, maybe you knocked a coil loose. If that doesn't do the trick, you should test your coils. A huge problem with the R6 is that when the coils fail, they still like to be within spec according to the manual. Download the service manual from www.yzfr6.net. Easy way to test is swapping coils around or taking the plug out with coil attached and grounding it and seeing if it sparks.
Next up.. what's it sound like when you rev it? Does it hang up in the RPMs and slooowwly come back down? If so, your problem is a vacuum leak. Solution: pull everything back apart and put it all back together. It's VERY easy to get a vacuum leak or a crimped vacuum hose when working on the R6 carbs -- trust me, I know! Make sure everything is hooked back up properly and that the carbs are FIRMLY seated in the boots and that the airbox is FIRMLY seated as well. It's VERY easy to not seat the carbs correctly. And yes, it's tricky to get to those clamps that hold the carbs down. Long, ball-end allen keys are what you need.
BUT, if it doesn't do the above (hang up in the RPMs), I don't know what to tell you. But I can give you a hint. The bike is running lean if you give it some gas and the revs fall back down to JUST above idle and then eases back to idle (different than the vacuum problem where the RPMs just float and take a long time to work back down). It's rich if you blip the throttle and the revs dip just below idle and then climb back up to normal idle.
Anyway, you're gonna probably have to take the carbs back off no matter what. I honestly feel like Dynojet is not the way to go. It might produce similar peak power, but it will just not run 'right.' If you want to know more about this stuff, call Ivan and talk to him (he's an honest, level headed guy) or call/email Factory Pro as they also have exceptional customer support.
02-25-2003, 05:27 AM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Age: 41
Posts: 278
One last note..
Did you mess with your float levels at all? It's possible you messed up and they are either off or one is sticking.
Also, whatever you do, don't get pissed and yank out the heatshield between the carbs and the motor. This is a very important piece of equipment.
One more final note: with Ivans kit, you remove the coolant valve that flows through the carbs. The ONLY purpose of this is to heat the carbs up and help the bike warm up. I've started my bike in 20F weather without a problem, though. It only took about 5 seconds of full choke before I was able to ween the choke off and it would idle on it's own.
I will also use this as a sounding board about using the choke: don't do it unless the bike needs it. The only purpose of the choke is to get the bike running before it can idle on it's own. Do NOT use it to warm the bike up unless you think fouled plugs are cool.
Did you mess with your float levels at all? It's possible you messed up and they are either off or one is sticking.
Also, whatever you do, don't get pissed and yank out the heatshield between the carbs and the motor. This is a very important piece of equipment.
One more final note: with Ivans kit, you remove the coolant valve that flows through the carbs. The ONLY purpose of this is to heat the carbs up and help the bike warm up. I've started my bike in 20F weather without a problem, though. It only took about 5 seconds of full choke before I was able to ween the choke off and it would idle on it's own.
I will also use this as a sounding board about using the choke: don't do it unless the bike needs it. The only purpose of the choke is to get the bike running before it can idle on it's own. Do NOT use it to warm the bike up unless you think fouled plugs are cool.
02-25-2003, 01:59 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: IL
Age: 42
Posts: 5
Yeah my room mate's the one who's doing the install. He's only worked with dirtbike and harley carbs though and not any sportbike carbs so he asked me to post something on here to see if there's anything in particular or different that we should know about when doing the jet kit install and tuning... Thanks again for the replies!
02-25-2003, 02:51 PM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 1,918
iv jetted an r6 before, they are a pain in the but to work on, the jet kit you used is ok, i used the same one, ivans is generally made for either a slip on, or 4 into one exhaust.
did you follow all the directions, dial out the air mixture screws correctly, choose the correct main jets, and needle posistions, is it for a slipon or full exhaust. And you have to sync the carbs afterwards too....for that kit i dont believe you need to change the pilot jetts, in fact i dont even think they come with a different set, you also dont need to mess with the floats at all.
bring the bike up to wi and id take a look at it, im no expert but ive messed arounf on the r6 quite a few times.
jesse
did you follow all the directions, dial out the air mixture screws correctly, choose the correct main jets, and needle posistions, is it for a slipon or full exhaust. And you have to sync the carbs afterwards too....for that kit i dont believe you need to change the pilot jetts, in fact i dont even think they come with a different set, you also dont need to mess with the floats at all.
bring the bike up to wi and id take a look at it, im no expert but ive messed arounf on the r6 quite a few times.
jesse
02-25-2003, 03:31 PM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Age: 41
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You didn't answer anyones questions or tell us if it's been fixed yet. You can't expect people to help you without an accurate description of what the problems are or at least keeping us up to date on what's going on!
Also, a bike with stock exhaust will do just fine with a rejet. All a slip-on will do is give you 1 or 2 extra HP. There are several people that have used Ivan's kit and had a stock exhaust. Slip-ons are for sound, not power.
Also, if you want to go the full exhaust route, make sure the jet kit will work properly with whatever you choose. For instance, Ivan's website tells you what kind of headers you can use based on their dimensions. But I wouldn't go the full system route because you will most likely just gain top end and lose some bottom end power. If you're racing and constantly above 8-9k RPM, that's cool.. but if you do mostly street riding OR stunt riding, you want as much low-mid range power as the R6 can muster. There's not a lot down there, so every bit of it helps! I wonder if my bike is even on when it's below 8k, I can't imagine what it'd be like to have an even peakier powerband.
Also, a bike with stock exhaust will do just fine with a rejet. All a slip-on will do is give you 1 or 2 extra HP. There are several people that have used Ivan's kit and had a stock exhaust. Slip-ons are for sound, not power.
Also, if you want to go the full exhaust route, make sure the jet kit will work properly with whatever you choose. For instance, Ivan's website tells you what kind of headers you can use based on their dimensions. But I wouldn't go the full system route because you will most likely just gain top end and lose some bottom end power. If you're racing and constantly above 8-9k RPM, that's cool.. but if you do mostly street riding OR stunt riding, you want as much low-mid range power as the R6 can muster. There's not a lot down there, so every bit of it helps! I wonder if my bike is even on when it's below 8k, I can't imagine what it'd be like to have an even peakier powerband.
02-26-2003, 02:07 AM
#11
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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Age: 42
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Sorry, didn't get a chance to mess with it all weekend to post an update until tonight. But here's the deal... We took everything back apart, checked it all out and hooked and clamped everything back up. It runs alittle smoother it seems. When i rev it, it bogs down for a split second and hangs at about 4 grand before coming back down to idle. Seems to be running rich as hell, smells damn near like straight gas coming out of the exuast (which is a micron slip-on by the way). I don't know if it's the same on other bikes but the design for mounting the carbs is horrible, can't reach the mixture screws or anything without taking the carbs off again. Makes adjusting while running impossible it seems. We're going to try synch'ing the carbs this week when we get a chance.
I know ya all want me to go with an Ivan kit it seems but that's pretty much out of the question at this point in the game. I dont really want to turn around and pay for another kit ya know... I'll keep ya posted, in the mean time, any suggestions about anything, especially anyone who's installed a jet kit in an R6 is appreciated!!
I know ya all want me to go with an Ivan kit it seems but that's pretty much out of the question at this point in the game. I dont really want to turn around and pay for another kit ya know... I'll keep ya posted, in the mean time, any suggestions about anything, especially anyone who's installed a jet kit in an R6 is appreciated!!
03-01-2003, 04:00 PM
#12
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Location: malden , ma
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IF ITS HANGING UP AT 4 GRAND AND BOGGING TAKE THE TOPS OFF OF THE CARBS AND CHECK TO MAKE SURE ALL OF THE RUBBER BOOTS ON TOP OF THE SLIDES ARE SEATED IN THE GROVES AND THAT YOU DIDNT RIP THEM . ALSO WHEN YOU SET THE AIR FUEL SCREWS DID YOU TURN THEM ALL THE WAY IN BEFORE BACKING OUT TOTHE SPECS DESCRIBED IN THE INSTRUCTIONS . ALSO ON SOME DYNO JET KITS YOU HAVE TO INLARGE THE LIFT HOLE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SLIDE DID YOU CHECK THAT, I DOUT VERY MUCH ITS CARB SYNC BECAUSE I WILL ASSUME IT RAN FINE BEFORE YOU PLAYED WITH IT . I'VE INSTALLED A MILLION JET KITS AND UNLESS THE CUSTOMER COMPLAINS ABOUT A RUNNIG CONDITION BEFORE HAND I USUALLY NEVER CHECK IT GOOD LUCK DJ
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