Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

new kid on the block hes 5'5 135 and an adrenalin junkie but for that size is he ment to try stunting. i know doing a stand up wheelie will b hard for him so what should i tell him

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

actually, i would think it would be easier. i'm 6' and lik 230-240. it's hard for me, cause of the weight, but i can get it up with relative ease, just learn that throttle controll. Powering up is a cinch. but if you wanna tell him something, i could send you a picture of my kneecap, that i could see, through all the skin that tore off, and tell him that jeans, yeah, just are not enough. get pads man. get a HELMET. i swear to christ get a helmet, and a jacket. i'm alive today because of my gear.

and, tell him to get a roll cage for his bike. they are like 200 bux, that'll get you goin' good. he can drop it, and it won't bust his bike so bad.

but hey, back me up. i'm a newbie.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

some of these peeps should prob just stop thinkin about wheelies and concentrate on really learning how to ride. if you have been on the streets riding for 2 months your prob not going to pick up wheeling for a while. find someone who can show you hands on how to do it, they can ride with you watch you and tell you what your doing wrong and coach you through it. also pratice pratice pratice. one more thing [B]people can wheelie harleys[/B] so stop complaining about how heavy your katana is or underpowered your bike is just get out there and keep trying and you'll get it eventually...my :2cents

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

people can't do shit. sorry, but its true. people are cattle, they are scared and follow, an exceptional rider, now they could wheelie anything

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

[QUOTE=mojo1094]actually, i would think it would be easier. i'm 6' and lik 230-240. it's hard for me, cause of the weight, but i can get it up with relative ease, just learn that throttle controll. Powering up is a cinch. but if you wanna tell him something, i could send you a picture of my kneecap, that i could see, through all the skin that tore off, and tell him that jeans, yeah, just are not enough. get pads man. get a HELMET. i swear to christ get a helmet, and a jacket. i'm alive today because of my gear.

and, tell him to get a roll cage for his bike. they are like 200 bux, that'll get you goin' good. he can drop it, and it won't bust his bike so bad.

but hey, back me up. i'm a newbie.[/QUOTE]

That's true, jeans just don't cut it

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

well heres a vid the day i started practicing to do a wheelie, this was probably my longest run, the rest were like up and down, :laughing but i gotta start somewhere. [url]http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=107_075078[/url]

been only riding for 2 months now and lovin it, too bad im fixin my bike cuz i washed out a couple of weeks ago when i took a turn and hit gravel, well i should be back up soon to get this wheelie thing.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

You are the man F4Rider. I've been riding for about 4 years, but just never really got into stunting. Finally decided to give wheelies a go about 6 months ago but could never really get the hang of it. I ran into stuntlife on a google search and saw your forum last night. Tonight was my first night out trying it with your advice. Took me a few tries but on my 4th or 5th I got up to about 2 feet or so. Damn near scared the piss outta me, but the rush was awesome!! I was only up for a second or so. Still trying to get used to the feeling before I start to try to ride it out longer. Was only out for an hour, but by the end of the night I was feeling a bit more comfortable with the whole routine. Thanks for the "how to" bro. It definitely did the trick to get me started.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

[QUOTE=islandrider]well heres a vid the day i started practicing to do a wheelie, this was probably my longest run, the rest were like up and down, :laughing but i gotta start somewhere. [url]http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=107_075078[/url]

been only riding for 2 months now and lovin it, too bad im fixin my bike cuz i washed out a couple of weeks ago when i took a turn and hit gravel, well i should be back up soon to get this wheelie thing.[/QUOTE]
and u worried about lopping? :laughing

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

[QUOTE=choiboy]and u worried about lopping? :laughing[/QUOTE]

everyone worries about looping when they start. you should be more worried about your spelling :2cents

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way.
 

[QUOTE=f4rider]First of all, I learned all of this from my own experience and from the advice of others on this forum. Following this advice won’t keep you from crashing, getting hurt, and breaking stuff; but it will, most likely, help you learn faster while crashing less often than if you figure everything out on your own.

Bike setup for wheelies

Oil: Many bikes will become oil starved when riding long wheelies, and doing 12 o-clock wheelies. Gixxers and cbr 900s ('93-'95 893cc model) are the most notorious for this. To keep the bike from becoming oil starved, either move the oil pickup in the oil pan back, or overfill the oil. Myself and some others on this forum run 1 quart over. Overfilling doesn't seem to cause any problems with hondas, but I have read of problems with gixxers as a result of this. So the best thing for a gixxer would probably be to fix the oil pickup. You can buy modified oil pickups for gixxers from [url]www.stuntex.com[/url] .

Gears: For learning, gearing the bike down is unnecessary. Almost every sportbike will wheelie in first gear without any problem (maybe the ex250 is an exception). Also gearing to make second gear come up easier is kind of pointless because it just becomes more like first gear with big sprockets. If it doesn’t wheelie in first gear, it isn’t the bike’s fault. For the most part, gears are unnecessary until you are ready to learn highchairs (on a weak 600), no throttle hand wheelies, and circles.

Tires: When doing high-speed wheelies make sure you have a good rear tire. A tire with a flat spot in the middle can cause wobbles. I learned wheelies on a rear tire that was almost down to the cords in the middle, and it would often wobble like crazy when doing balance point wheelies. A new tire almost completely eliminated that problem. Run the tire pressure lower than stock. For doing wheelies above 20 mph, have the tire pressure between 20 and 30psi. For doing wheelies slower than 20 mph, lower the pressure to between 12 and 20. 18-20 psi makes for a good all around psi. Lower tire pressure makes the wheelie more stable from side to side.

Tip over sensor: Most (or all, I’m not sure) bikes with fuel injection have a tip over sensor. This can cause the bike to shut off when riding wheelies high. This should be disabled. For Hondas this can be done by cutting the wires going into the sensor, connecting the two outer wires, and leaving the middle one hanging. For gixxers, that method doesn’t work. The brass ring in the sensor must be removed, or immobilized with something such as silicone.

Steering Damper: While it isn’t imperative that you have a steering damper for doing wheelies, it might save your ass. If you come down from a wheelie with the front wheel crooked, it could cause a tank slapper. This shouldn’t be a problem, though; if you make sure the front wheel is strait when you put it down.

Exhaust pipe: If learning 12s, the pipe may have to be shortened. The stock pipes on some bikes touch the ground at about the same time as the tail when doing a 12 o-clock wheelie. If the pipe hits the ground, it may cause you to crash. My friend just went down a week ago because of this. The pipe can be shortened by simply cutting a few inches off the end of the pipe, and then re-welding / re-riveting the end of the pipe back on. Short pipes can also be bought from [url]www.starboyz.com[/url].

Cage: In the process of learning to ride wheelies good, you will most likely drop your bike. Crash cages provide the best protection. All of these cages will most likely save you a lot of money if you crash, but none of them will completely protect your bike in every crash. Here is a list of some crash cage websites in no particular order.
MXD cages [url]http://eclipsebusiness.net/mxdcages.com/[/url]
Racing 905 Cages [url]http://www.racing905.com[/url]
Powers Cages [url]http://www.powersbikeworx.com/[/url]
Freestyle Ingenuity Cages [url]http://www.freestyleingenuity.com/[/url]
Wicked Crew Extreme Team's Cages [url]http://cantcuffus.com/cages_pics.htm[/url]

12 bar: Install a 12 bar if you plan on learning 12s. There was some debate as to whether or not to learn 12s with a 12 bar. I learned 12s with a bar and didn’t have any problems. You just need to be more careful because a bar is less forgiving than plastic. However, I think tail sections cost way too much to smash on purpose. You can buy 12 bars from Racing 905 or Freestyle Ingenuity. They are also pretty simple to build yourself, at a fraction of the cost.

Protection: Wear a helmet, jacket, jeans, and gloves if you don’t want to get messed up.


Before riding wheelies on a bike
If you have access to a quad, a dirt bike, or a fiddy, learn wheelies on that first. What you learn about throttle control and the balance point will help you in learning to ride a wheelie on a bike. If you’re ready to learn on a bike then: 1. Make sure the rear brake works and adjust the lever to a comfortable height. 2. There should be 1in. of play in chain slack. A chain too tight or too loose will wear out the chain and sprockets faster than normal. 3. Make sure there are no cracks in the foot pegs, and make sure all of the bolts are tight.

Speed and riding position for learning wheelies
I recommend that beginners learn wheelies if first gear. It is easier to launch the wheelie in first gear, and there is more engine breaking in first gear. This means that you can ride a wheelie higher without the danger of looping it. It also hurts much less and breaks less stuff when you crash in first gear. For that reason i don't think it is a good idea to do highspeed wheelies until using the brake is second nature. It is also much easier to go from riding out first gear wheelies to second gear wheelies than vice versa. The only downfall to learning wheelies in first vs. seconds is that the wheelie won’t be as smooth. The throttle will feel much more sensitive. I think fifteen mph is a good speed to launch wheelies while learning; any slower and the wheelie may feel unstable to a beginner. I also recommend learning wheelies standing up with the left foot on the passenger peg, and the right foot on the front peg, covering the brake. While it may feel awkward at first to wheelie while standing, it will be easier after you get used to that part. Most people think it is easier to balance and control a wheelie standing up vs. sitting down. It is also easier to launch the wheelie from standing up.

Why clutching wheelies is the best method for launching wheelies
Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. While it does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal, the difference is not significant. I also have never read about any major problems as the result of the extra tension on the drive train. There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. powering wheelies. 1. It allows you to wheelie bikes that don’t have enough power to power it up. 2. You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point. 3. The launch is more predictable. When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point. From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all. 4. All of the pros that I know of clutch every wheelie. You want to be like them don’t you? :)

How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple different methods for clutching wheelies. I prefer the second method.
Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the tach is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpm’s before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn’t get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch. I is not a good idea to pull on the bars. Pulling up on the bars may cause the wheelie to come up funny and wobble.


Shifting gears
I don’t recommend shifting gears during a wheelie unless you are good at wheelies, and are able to use the clutch in the process. Otherwise, shifting during wheelies is hard on the transmission. It is also hard on the fork seals if you miss a shift. My advice is to learn to ride wheelies at a constant speed. Then there will be no need to shift.


How to set a wheelie down
When bringing down a wheelie, stay on the throttle until the front end is safely on the ground. If it is necessary to quickly bring down the front end, then close the throttle at first. Then as the front is coming down, open the throttle. In that way you will have a soft landing.

Step by step procedure to launch a wheelie for a beginner
1. Drop the tire pressure to about 15-20psi
2. Put the bike into first gear
3. Go about 15mph
4. Pull in the clutch
5. Rev up the engine a little and drop the clutch
6. Repeat step 5, increasing the rpm’s, until the front end comes up close to the balance point.
7. Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point.
8. Cover the rear brake.
9. Stay on the throttle as it comes back down.

Balancing the wheelie from front to back
Balancing front to back is controlled by using the throttle and rear brake. It is a good idea to learn this on a quad, fiddy, or dirtbike first. If the wheelie is in front of the balance point, you must increase your speed to remain at that position. To get the wheelie back to the balance point, you must compensate with more throttle. This is the same, only in reverse, when the wheelie is behind the balance point. When behind the balance point, you must use the engine breaking/ rear brake to bring it forward to the balance point. The balance point is the position of the bike in which it neither has to speed up or slow down to remain at the same position. The height of the balance point is affected mainly by the speed of the wheelie. The faster the wheelie is, the lower the balance point. The balance point is also slightly affected by the weight distribution of the bike and the position of the rider. The object of riding a balanced wheelie is to keep the bike as close as possible to the balance point. This is done by rolling on and off the throttle, and pushing the brake if needed. With practice comes the ability to ride a smooth wheelie with out playing with the throttle/brake much.

Balancing the wheelie from side to side
Balancing sided to side is done by adjusting your body position. It is a good idea to learn this on a dirtbike, bicycle, or fiddy first. When riding wheelies over about 20mph, the bike will balance itself for the most part. It is the slow wheelies that you have to consciously balance side to side. The principle is pretty simple. Quickly lean the same direction as the bike is falling. For example, if the bike is starting to fall to the left, you would quickly lean to the left. This movement would twist the bike towards the left, thereby correcting it.

Preventing / stopping wheelie wobbles
From my experience, I think that high speed wheelie wobbles can be caused by having a squared off rear tire, not being smooth on the throttle, and/or making quick movements. Slow speed wobbles seems to be caused by high rear tire pressure, and/or not keeping the wheelie balanced from side to side.

Steering wheelies
To steer wheelies good, you need to either be at the balance point, or behind the balance point. To steer wheelies which are over about 20mph, you simply slowly lean in the direction you want to turn. However, to turn slow wheelies, you must first make the bike lean in the direction which you want to turn. For example, if you want to turn to the right, first, slowly lean to the right. Then quickly lean a little to the left / twist the handlebars a little to the left. This will cause the bike to start to fall to the right. Then, instead of completely correcting the lean, you keep the bike leaning at that angle. This will cause the bike to turn to the right.

Using the rear brake: Slowing wheelies down / 12s
Wheelies are slowed down by riding the wheelie behind the balance point. This is one of the hardest parts of learning to wheelie, not because of skill, but because of the balls required. To learn how to use the rear brake, you basically need to grow some balls, bring the wheelie up behind the balance point, and tap the brake. Soon this process will become second nature. To slow a wheelie down, you must give the bike enough throttle to get the wheelie behind the balance point. Now if you get scared and push the rear break hard at this point, it will quickly bring the wheelie forward without slowing it down much. To slow it down, you must keep it behind the balance point by gently riding the brake. To 12, you just do the same thing, only you get off the rear break enough to allow the bike to lean back on the tail. Unless you plan on parking a 12, make sure you get back on the brake before the wheelie slows down enough to stall the engine.

Riding slow wheelies
After you get good at slowing down wheelies, then you should be able to ride slow wheelies out. First of all, turn up your idle. I do slow stuff with the idle at 3.5k rpm’s. The high idle allows you to ride slow wheelies much smoother. Be careful, however, when first turning up the idle, because you will have to use the rear brake, when going slow, to keep from looping. When riding slow wheelies with the idle high, with some practice, you should be able to ride the wheelie by using the brake, and only blipping the throttle if the wheelie starts to come down.

Once you have learned all of this, all of the wheelie variations will pretty much be self explanatory.



I don’t care if you guys whore this information out on other websites. It would be nice to have some recognition for writing this, but I don’t think I want my name attached to this for legal reasons.
If you know what you are talking about, post up suggestions regarding this post. I will be editing if there is better information/ tips for beginners. Feedback would be nice.[/QUOTE]

Well boys and girls, if you cant ride wheelies after applying this info, then heres the bottom line. Sell your f*#$ing bike and take up a new hobby! the only thing not stated here is the one thing that can not be stated. YOU have to apply this to your practice. thus mandating that you GO OUT AND PRACTICE!!!!!!!! great article, i wish i would have had ten years ago!!! :apimp

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

you sure you quoted all of it? you might want to do it again just to be sure... hehe

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

why do people do that?? :shruggs

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

I went out for an hour on my FZ1 today to practice some more. I dropped the psi to about 22 and worked on finding the bp sitting in second, and getting it up staggered in first. Staggered in first scared me to death but after about 10 pulls, w/o the clutch, I got it up high enough to ride about 20 yds. I suppose b/c I'm not used to standing, it's too scary. In second, I was able to find the bp several times, though this is the first time I could do it consistently. Again, I was sitting doing it, so I couldn't see well. But, I could tell that when it came up, it would come up favoring to the right a little, and as it rode, it was no longer straight, but drifted toward the right shoulder. This scared me as well. No matter how often I tried, nor how straight I made sure I was, it seemed to pull to the right. A few times, I got on the yellow, looked straight ahead, pointed straight ahead, thought "straight ahead", and clutched it and it went straight. However, those times, I was unable to reach the bp b/c I didn't gas enough before dumping. What's more, after 20 or 30 minutes of riding in 95 degree weather, I was surprised to find the wheel started to spin some before coming up in second. It was a shock at first. It's like in an old truck, you give it gas, nothing happens b/c the rear slips, then catches and suddenly it pulls again. For me, it would raise about a foot slowly while it spun some, then catch and bring it up faster. It was harder to find the bp that way b/c I reached it in higher rpms.
Needless to say, I learned a lot today, even if I didn't get anything done well. I rode a few 2nd gear wheelies out as far as usual, and I began the process of getting used to riding standing up with one wheel in the air. But, I know it's a long hard road ahead to get to be as good as most of the folks on here.

I suppose I should ask:
Why does it pull to the right slightly as opposed to riding straight, when up in 2nd?
Why, after the tire got especially hot and sticky, did it then start to spin when trying to clutch up 2nd?

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

whatup psyko, check out my avatar

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

ok so im kinda new at the stunting scene and im wantin some input about my size ive heard from all my friends that its gonna be hard for me to stunt since im 6'5 180 <true?

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

I've read the whole thing(by the way,damn good tips) but I'm only able to wheelie my 636 for about only 20 feet,I'm sure I found the b/p but just can't keep it up for too long..is it only a matter of playing with the clutch??I need some advice,thanks people..and have a nice(and safe) ride.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

((I've read the whole thing(by the way,damn good tips) but I'm only able to wheelie my 636 for about only 20 feet,I'm sure I found the b/p but just can't keep it up for too long..is it only a matter of playing with the clutch??I need some advice,thanks people..and have a nice(and safe) ride.))

i think ur just goin all into it with full throttle and i dont do that i get it to bp and then i work the throttle not the clutch :2cents

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

don't mess with the clutch after you get it up, just throttle and brake

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

Thanks 21o4u2c and F4rider,you're both right..I notice that i'm reducing the throttle way too soon,I guess i need more practice and more balls since I don't want to mess up my new bike.

Re: Complete guide for learning basic wheelies the right way
 

[QUOTE=sharknail]Thanks 21o4u2c and F4rider,you're both right..I notice that i'm reducing the throttle way too soon,I guess i need more practice and more balls since I don't want to mess up my new bike.[/QUOTE]
By no means am I a pro! I'll just state that first- All of my "know how" is self taught for the most part, with input from fellow riders giving their 2 cents, but yes, the clutch isn't much of a friend when you're up on one wheel- throttle throttle throttle!
I happened to learn the importance of rear brake control the hard way at 80+ 2nd gear in t-shir and jeans, and it aint fun!- follow all the advice on this topic, and your chances of advancement are far better!
Also- I understand that we all do what we do on these bikes, we do for various reasons, but the general concensus is that its "cool"- and by following that logic, I have seen so many "cool" guys PRETEND they know what the hell they are doing in front of everyone..... this usually involves the police, EMS and an insurance hike- why do most PRETEND? 'Cause asking for help or advice isnt "cool"...(supposedly)
Remember one thing- (this may be the most important piece of advice on this whole thread)
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A STUPID QUESTION! this site and all of the people on here are professionals to some extent- they (notice I didnt pretend to be pro by saying we?) have no prob trying to help newcomers come up on knowledge- if they and me for that matter can save someone from 1 crash, it's worth it- I would venture to guess, that 95% of the members of this site have had at least 1 serious accident, and seen and even worse one- Over the past three years, I have buried two friends, and had probably 9 aquaintences die with a M/C involvement- Just dont think people will laugh, or think less- and I'm not harping on you (obviously, as you posted with a question) but anyone who reads this!
OK I'm done......