OMR SUBCAGE[S]
available subcages:


Honda

• CBR F4i - 01, 02, 03 <<< click here, will also fit the single seat style with minor mods
• CBR 954- all years
• CBR 929- all years <<< click here
• CBR 600RR - 03 , 04 , 05 , 06 , 07 , 08<<< click here

Kawasaki

• zx6r/rr (600/636) - 03, 04, 05, 06 07 08 09<<< click here

Suzuki

• GSXR 600 - 01, 02, 03, 04, 05 ,06, 07<<<click here
• GSXR 750- 00, 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06,07 <<click here
• GSXR 1000 -01, 02, 03, 04

Yamaha

• R6 - 03, 04, 05 <<< click here
• R6s (old body style) - 06, 07, 08
• R1 98, 99, 00, 01

$175 Shipped
pay pal accepted





Tech

• The CBR 600RR , Yamaha R6 ,03 04 gsxr 1000 and the f4i pegs are lowered and moved back and out for better peg position! !
• The 01-03 GSXR 600 and 750 have the pegs moved out two inches because of the big tail section
• THE 07 600RR pegs are located 2-1/2 inches lower and 3 inches wider (Than stock)
• The zx6 models are slightly wider than stock to keep your leg from being pressed against the tail
• other omr subframe cage models are in the stock location except they are rotated on their axis so they don't fold up unless you fold them up, this also puts your foot on the grippy part of the peg during a wheelie.
• omr subcages are available for all makes and models but only the ones listed above are available for shipping

click here to contact >> old man roger

the original folding peg subcage!!!!!

>>click here to see why i only sell folding peg subcages<<

 

time to do work ...bbl

 

hey hey was up guys?

 

just stopping by bump

 

hi .

 

Hi y'all

 

Howdy..

 

the timing on my chevy was advanced to 30 degrees at idle. i turned it down to 12 and it ran shittier. best idle was around 18-20 degrees

 

some older small blocks liked a total timing advance of 35 to 40 and an initial advance of about 5 with the vacuum advance module unplugged and around 18 with the timing advance module plugged in

 

doing it this way will show you if you have any problems with your mechanical advance or your vacuum advance

 

total timing is checked by simply revving the motor

 

ok so im in a good spot now so to speak

 

i just checked the timing because when i googled "stalls in gear" a lot of entries came up about timing possibly being way off. in my case it didnt seem to make a difference except now the engine starts easier.

 

how high?

 

depends on the springs in your distributor but in most cases the timing will be at total advance by 3000 ..

check your initial then unplug the vacuum advance[bell shaped thing on side of distributor] and plug the hose it should drop to around 5 then plug it back in and rev the motor and it should total out , that way you know every thing is working right ..

if your idle is too high it will mess with your results so make sure your idle is low enough while you are checking every thing ..

have you tried starting the truck in gear to see if it trys to drive away ? you can either disconnect the neutral safety switch or disconnect the linkage and manually shift the tranny into low gear , just make sure you keep your foot on the brake and your hand on the key ..lol

 

i want to try that but my brakes dont work good enough. i suppose if i put enough 2x4's in front of it as speed bumps...nah i just need to fix my brakes. thats a whole nother issue

 

ya no brakes would be bad ..lol if they work at all though you can always just turn the key off

 

I can also jack up the rear end in about a minute

 

either my masters no good or theres still air in the lines. i took the rear drums apart today, the cylinders move freely enough. when my friend steps on the brake, the drums cylinder moves out about an 1/8 of an inch, and i can overcome it with my hands.

 

but that wouldnt tell you any thing really , well i guess if you dropped it once it was running it would tell you