clutch wheelies
#1
clutch wheelies
I read the sticky on wheelies, and I've been trying to clutch it up lately. Tried what it said it the guide, didn't seem to work on my bike. Tried from about 6k rpm's (max power is 8500) and under throttle let the clutch in and out quick. Just sprints forward. Also tried it from almost a complete stop, it comes up but not stable or very high. I have been sitting far back in the seat, even trying a little seat bounce and also with my left foot on the rear peg. Next I was going to try standing on the rear pegs. All the videos I see it looks so easy, so what am I doing wrong? Throttle wheelies are no problem though
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2003
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Re: clutch wheelies
Originally Posted by davestriffler
I read the sticky on wheelies, and I've been trying to clutch it up lately. Tried what it said it the guide, didn't seem to work on my bike. Tried from about 6k rpm's (max power is 8500) and under throttle let the clutch in and out quick. Just sprints forward. Also tried it from almost a complete stop, it comes up but not stable or very high. I have been sitting far back in the seat, even trying a little seat bounce and also with my left foot on the rear peg. Next I was going to try standing on the rear pegs. All the videos I see it looks so easy, so what am I doing wrong? Throttle wheelies are no problem though
#5
Re: clutch wheelies
I've tried clutching it as far as 8k rpm, it only revs to 10,500. Ive tried everything aside from flat out dumping it, I was trying not to kill the clutch. But I guess you gotta go through one to learn right? Sorry I know you guys probably get these questions a lot, but I read a few pages of previous posts and couldn't find anything to this detail.
#6
Re: clutch wheelies
Clutches aren't difficult to change, and don't generally cost a mint. Looped bikes are expensive to fix though. Keep the clutch covered (don't just snap it free of your fingers) after release and the brake covered.
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: El Cajon CA
Age: 44
Posts: 34
Re: clutch wheelies
Originally Posted by davestriffler
I read the sticky on wheelies, and I've been trying to clutch it up lately. Tried what it said it the guide, didn't seem to work on my bike. Tried from about 6k rpm's (max power is 8500) and under throttle let the clutch in and out quick. Just sprints forward. Also tried it from almost a complete stop, it comes up but not stable or very high. I have been sitting far back in the seat, even trying a little seat bounce and also with my left foot on the rear peg. Next I was going to try standing on the rear pegs. All the videos I see it looks so easy, so what am I doing wrong? Throttle wheelies are no problem though
#8
Re: clutch wheelies
Originally Posted by joey23792003
This is what I do: Try first gear. go 20-25mph, pull clutch in with one finger while opening throttle at the same time, then let go of clutch while holding the throttle hand steady. the time to do all of this is only about half a second. good luck.
This is probably the easiest to understand/ most accurate information he pretty much pin pointed exactly what you gotta do.
First gear is goin to be really "twitchy" but you'll get used to it soon enough and it'll teach you great throttle control.
Cover that rear break, Its as important as learning to clutch the bike up. Get used to applying alittle bit of preasure on the rear break every time you bring it up and feather lightly on the rear break once its up in BP to keep it there. Instead of rolling off the throttle if your travelling to far back get used to using the break and holding the throttle steady.
#9
Re: clutch wheelies
I've been trying power up 1st but cant get over a foot. Plus I have no damper and I tend to cut the wheel when I hit it scares me a little. I can hold the bar straghter learning to clutch, which is better 1st or 2nd. Should I be aganist tank or sit back I am on a dirt bike and should a damper be my mod or gearing .
#10
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: AZ, where you can pwer wheelie all year long
Age: 41
Posts: 405
Re: clutch wheelies
there is no mod that you need to do
i might try to be going at like 2k-2500 and then rev it up really high in the power and then let the clutch out fasst.
try to use only one finger with the clutch and only pull it in the bare minimum to get it to engage.
if you have someone to ride with that knows how to do it then it will help to hear exactly what they are doing to the throttle and clutch
dont be afraid to rev the bike
i might try to be going at like 2k-2500 and then rev it up really high in the power and then let the clutch out fasst.
try to use only one finger with the clutch and only pull it in the bare minimum to get it to engage.
if you have someone to ride with that knows how to do it then it will help to hear exactly what they are doing to the throttle and clutch
dont be afraid to rev the bike
#11
Re: clutch wheelies
it's a lot easier standing up, I prefer to be staggered, left foot on the passenger pegs and right foot covering the brake. When you clutch you want to be going slower, like around 3-4k rpm's, if you clutch from around 6/7/8 you're going to run out of revs real quick.
Now you said it hops when you clutch but doesn't come up, most likely that is because you rev it a little bit, drop the clutch, and then let go of the gas. For the bike to wheelie you have to stay on the gas! if you let off you're just going to get engine braking. Keep it at about 1/2-3/4 throttle and just get used to it. And clutches really last quite a while, I've put just under 10k on my katana 600, which requires a lot of abuse of the clutch to wheelie, and the clutch is still fine.
Another thing to help bring it up is to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound to help you out, but with the 1100 I doubt that you need that extra boost, just practice practice practice and you'll get more and more comfortable with it.
And wear your gear, it's not like it's all that hot out anyways.
Now you said it hops when you clutch but doesn't come up, most likely that is because you rev it a little bit, drop the clutch, and then let go of the gas. For the bike to wheelie you have to stay on the gas! if you let off you're just going to get engine braking. Keep it at about 1/2-3/4 throttle and just get used to it. And clutches really last quite a while, I've put just under 10k on my katana 600, which requires a lot of abuse of the clutch to wheelie, and the clutch is still fine.
Another thing to help bring it up is to bounce the front suspension to get the rebound to help you out, but with the 1100 I doubt that you need that extra boost, just practice practice practice and you'll get more and more comfortable with it.
And wear your gear, it's not like it's all that hot out anyways.
#12
Re: clutch wheelies
Originally Posted by NovaMan
This is probably the easiest to understand/ most accurate information he pretty much pin pointed exactly what you gotta do.
First gear is goin to be really "twitchy" but you'll get used to it soon enough and it'll teach you great throttle control.
Cover that rear break, Its as important as learning to clutch the bike up. Get used to applying alittle bit of preasure on the rear break every time you bring it up and feather lightly on the rear break once its up in BP to keep it there. Instead of rolling off the throttle if your travelling to far back get used to using the break and holding the throttle steady.
First gear is goin to be really "twitchy" but you'll get used to it soon enough and it'll teach you great throttle control.
Cover that rear break, Its as important as learning to clutch the bike up. Get used to applying alittle bit of preasure on the rear break every time you bring it up and feather lightly on the rear break once its up in BP to keep it there. Instead of rolling off the throttle if your travelling to far back get used to using the break and holding the throttle steady.
#13
Re: clutch wheelies
I fully disengage my clutch almost every time. Sometimes i get the clunk too thats from basically dropping the clutch instead of slipping it.
just go about 15 MPH start accelerating slowly think about what your about to do (pull in the clutch till it disengages) as soon as you get the clutch disengaged give it about half throttle or so and release the clutch fast but dont drop it. This should all happen within a second. Get used to how its suppose to sound when you clutch a wheelie dont worry about watching the RPMs.
Also get used to doing standups cause they come up much easier than a sit down
just go about 15 MPH start accelerating slowly think about what your about to do (pull in the clutch till it disengages) as soon as you get the clutch disengaged give it about half throttle or so and release the clutch fast but dont drop it. This should all happen within a second. Get used to how its suppose to sound when you clutch a wheelie dont worry about watching the RPMs.
Also get used to doing standups cause they come up much easier than a sit down
#15
Re: clutch wheelies
Originally Posted by NovaMan
I fully disengage my clutch almost every time. Sometimes i get the clunk too thats from basically dropping the clutch instead of slipping it.
just go about 15 MPH start accelerating slowly think about what your about to do (pull in the clutch till it disengages) as soon as you get the clutch disengaged give it about half throttle or so and release the clutch fast but dont drop it. This should all happen within a second. Get used to how its suppose to sound when you clutch a wheelie dont worry about watching the RPMs.
Also get used to doing standups cause they come up much easier than a sit down
just go about 15 MPH start accelerating slowly think about what your about to do (pull in the clutch till it disengages) as soon as you get the clutch disengaged give it about half throttle or so and release the clutch fast but dont drop it. This should all happen within a second. Get used to how its suppose to sound when you clutch a wheelie dont worry about watching the RPMs.
Also get used to doing standups cause they come up much easier than a sit down
#16
Re: clutch wheelies
You just got to go for it and get used to it. Go staggered and start off slow in first gear so if you crash you won't get banged up too bad. On your first 10-20 wheelies after the front wheel comes up just press the rear brake right away. Don't worry about bringing it up so high. You'll get a feel for the rear brake and then you can worry about getting higher and it will be easy using the rear brake from there. It worked for me. Anybody else got better ideas?
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