Hey, I just picked up my first stunt machine. Its a 1995 CBR900. Im putting on MXbars this week, along with streetfightering it out.

My question is though... What kinda of gearing do I need to get for this bike so I can rock slow stuff, but enough top speed so I can drive on the highway, and ride with my buddies in the riding group.

Is it possible to get a gearing where I could go 140 and still do slowspeed stuff?

Bear in mind that I am a beginning stunting motorcycles. Im pretty good at wheelies. I can almost (sometimes I can though) rock the balancepoint on my ZX9 with stock gearing, with sitdowns or standups. Im getting rid of the ZX and just keeping the CBR, and its my only ride. I ride to school on it and take i95. I have not yet learned back break control. What do you guys recommend for me?

 

right now my 98 is 1 down 5 up and I still can go fast and rock slow stuff. I m just recently getting the slow stuff down but that set up seem to be working fine for me.

 

LEARN STOCK. then when you get some back brake, you can gear it as high as you want. gearing your bike doesnt help you wheelie, it helps you slow it down. if you cant wheelie a stock bike, especially a 900rr, then a geared bike is going to be even harder.


to learn brake control--

get up on one, and then tap you brake while staying on the gas. do this about 20 times and you got it forever.

 

I feel for you man, i95 is the worst road I've ever ridden on in my life, massive amounts of traffic, miles long construction zones, fatal accidents closing it down all the time. I'd say go anywhere between +5 and +8 in the rear only, don't go down in the front . also last time I checked, the 520 X-ring chains I was looking at had a higher tensile strength than the 525's, 525 being stock for 900RR'sand I think all hondas, so I would say get a 120 link 520 chain, 16 tooth 520 front sprocket, and anywyhere from 48-51 tooth 520 rear.... but then again it's a streetfighter so your not going to be doing 140 comfortably without a fairing, and certainly not on I95! So you may want to go bigger in the rear. post up some pics man i want to see this thing.

oh yeah www.onoffroad.com does good deals on chain/sprocket combos check them out

 

I got -1 +12 on my 900rr street fighter. still got enough to hang on the highways maybe around 80-85. I dont got gauges so I dont know how fast I'm goin but I looked over at a buddies gauges and we was at 80 and it still had some more leftover

 

i have a 93 +12 and cruise at 65 mph at around 6000 rpm. highway wheelies and slow ones no problems

 

got both -1+7& -1+5 & its still fine on the highway

 

All around, 10-15 up total. 10 is good because when you want more you can always go down 1 or 2 in the front.

 

i went down 1 in front up 2 in the rear, powers right up in 1st (10mph) and 2nd, when its at stock ride height, lowered it powers up in 1st around 25-30 no problem, still can go 160-170, i drag race teh bike also, good all around gearing. it wont do super slow stuff, but i would learn the bike a little more before gearing it out.

 

^^^agreed

 

I can wheelie a stock bike. I can rock the ZX9 highway standup wheelies for a good while... its just that I havent learned the back break yet and I have to accelerate slowely. I guess that means Im not at the balance point. I will take the advice though and practice a little more stock, maybe a month or 2.

From what you guys said, I think -1 and +6 sounds like the best combo for me.

Hey Deep Waters, why should I go down in the front? Is there a difference, or a specific reason? Im just curious. I dont know too much about how front/rear sprockets effect power.

Thank you all for the great info. Stuntlife rules!!

I got pics of what the bike looks like now at https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/281-stunt-bike-pictures/95870-my-new-stunna.html

 

[QUOTE=kidstunta]I can wheelie a stock bike. I can rock the ZX9 highway standup wheelies for a good while... its just that I havent learned the back break yet and I have to accelerate slowely.
[QUOTE]

sprockets arent going to help you bro. you need to learn back brake BEFORE you get sprockets. getting sprockets is only going to make you bike come up faster, therefore you have a greater chance of looping. stay STOCK, learn the back brake THEN get sprockets to slow it down.

you dont accelerate slower, you go slower once you get up to bp

 

I know, and the back break and BP allows you to stay at a constant slow speed, or slow down.

You dont think learning the back break at slower speeds is a safer way to learn? Seems more dangerous learning the brake at 50 or 60 to me, but I guess im wrong? Once I get the new forks I will try just tapping the rear brake while its up a bunch to start getting the feel for it. I understand the whole concept completely, I just am having trouble putting it into action. On a bicycle I can slow down and speed up wheelie easily using the brake, its just in a totally different location, so I have to learn it over again for the different location.

Seriously though, you think learning on stock at higher speeds is better? Just seems more dangerous, but I dunno...

 

youre not going to go any slower really unless you have some brake control. your front will just pop up faster, meaning it will be way easier to loop. if you can stand up and rock a highway wheelie then you should be able to touch your rear brake while you are in the wheelie. once you get that down then you should regear it and start messing with 1st gear.

and i dont think you should be getting used to bringing it past the bp and tapping the brake at high speeds. im just talking about actually finding the brake.

 

I will do that then (have some waiting time thought before I get some new forks on the CBR). Once I find the brake, I think I will go -1+8. Im hoping that thats not too much. If it is, I guess I could always order a smaller rear sprocket. That way I wouldnt have to get a whole new chain again.

 

Hey I said you should NOT go down in the front go back and read again. going samller up front puts more stress on the chain cause it has to wrap around a tighter circle, also there are less teeth in contact with the chain at a time so there's like more pounds per square inch exerted on each link or something?

Like kyle pbz said if you go +8 and it's not enough you could always drop a tooth up front later, and use the same chain...I dunno about -2 though you might have to take a link out. and anyway if you did go -1 +8 and it was too much geering why would you order a smaller rear? why wouldn't you just go back to stock (16tooth) front? EDIT: I see what you mean now, your chain might not be long enough to go back to stock front but I think it would

why are you going to streetfighter that man? the upper and headlight are all good why not leave 'em on?

Also how do you straighten the forks?

 

to straighten forks you take out the tubes and use a hydrolic press to straighten them. I havent done that yet, but I just adjusted the bent tubes so it drives straight atleast.

I definily see your point about the front sprocket teeth. I will definitly take that into consideration. Maybe I will just go +8 in the rear. Will that be good enough for slow stuff (once I practice more before I gear, I know)? I just need to make sure its alright for slow stuff too . Its alot of money in the decision .

Oh ya, and I like the streetfighter look. I have all my plastics (front is cracked up, but it works I guess) and the rest are rashed if anyone wants to buy em. :YEAH Headlight too.

 

stock is good enough for slow ****. ive seen guys go 5mph on a stock bike. sprockets make it easier. +8 is going to be a big jump, but when you have brake control, you will get used to it. you might like it, you might not. best thing to do is ride someones bike that is geared. if you cant do that then get the +8. you will need a new chain probly with a +8. buy a 120 link chain and grind off a couple links. make sure you do it one by one so you dont take off too many links. to grind the link off you just need to grind the outside where the little pins are. the link will just pop off, so if it seems like it wont come off, keep grinding. i think stock on your bike is a 525 chain too so make sure you get the right sprocket when the time comes. and you dont need to go to a 520 or 530, it doesnt really help that much. just make sure to keep your chain clean and lube it every 300 or so miles and your set. hopefully this answers all your ?s. if not, post up again, we are all here to help for the most part

 

Thats what I was looking for! Thanks man! Now I understand a little better. BTW, my bike was converted to a 520 chain (kinda gay IMO). Should I just totally ditch the 520 and go back to 525? I will have to buy the stock front sprocket all over again, but if a 520 is too weak (especially for wheelies and shyt) I will just get the new front in a 525. I figure 520 isnt good for a 900, or stunting. Am I wrong?

 

kinda gay? sorry kid but you are a ****ing ******

D.I.D.
525VM Gold Premium X-Ring Chain --- Average tensile strength of 8,050 lbs.

D.I.D.
520VM Gold Premium X-Ring Chain --- Average tensile strength of 8,120 lbs.

Why in the ****ing **** do you think people do 520 conversions? cause they are homosexuals? holy ****
WTF do you mean by help? you're right in that it won't really help his wheelies but a chain with bigger links has a harder time going around the front sprocket. worst case scenario would be 530 chain on a -2 (14tooth) front sprocket.....best case would be a 520 on a stock(16tooth) front sprocket. you will have longer chain and sprocket life with the latter.

here's some more advice which will probably be dismissed as being gay use a rivet master link(gsxr7502001 is assuming this is what type of master link your chain has, by instructing you to grind off the head of the rivet = "little pins"), not a clip master link(you're chain might be using one of these, in which case no grinding is necessary), check you're chain slack often and adjust it as necessary, and keep it clean and lubed(sounds gay huh)