Wobbles
body position does it also. i have a scotts and on my 929 i still get hell wobble when i go for distance. I think it's my body position. It just takes time to get good, but i guess once you have good body position and a dampener, you'll rock.
Registered User

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 30
From: bloomington, IN

if you buy a scotts you're paying for all kinds of settings. also they're used if you're going in the twisties alot. but if you're just going to use it for stuntin....endo's...then invest less money and just get one that tighten's well...wobbles will only happen when you reach the balance point on an endo....
I also think that a damper is a damper is a damper. The rotary style version like the Scotts are cool with lots of awesome features... but I bet you will never optimize it for what you want. You don't want to necesarrily get the cheapest POS out there because it will eventually start to need a service and just might not be a sufficient piece... but you don't need a Scotts or Ohlins unit, either.
You might even get yourself into trouble with a Scotts. If you set the damping up really high and you have the damping at a really tight sweep range, you might not be able to get that thing turned at really low speeds. A standard style damper (i.e. Ohlins) is cool because the damping only occurs at a fast front end input, i.e. a slapper. The design pushes fluid through a valve... at slow movements, the fluid can pass through at an appropriate rate and thus not slow input. This isn't to say at full damping, it won't be harder to turn at low speeds, but you can easily just turn the **** a few clicks when you need to. Not to say you can't adjust a rotary damper, either.. but it will just be more of a headache to be honest.
You might even get yourself into trouble with a Scotts. If you set the damping up really high and you have the damping at a really tight sweep range, you might not be able to get that thing turned at really low speeds. A standard style damper (i.e. Ohlins) is cool because the damping only occurs at a fast front end input, i.e. a slapper. The design pushes fluid through a valve... at slow movements, the fluid can pass through at an appropriate rate and thus not slow input. This isn't to say at full damping, it won't be harder to turn at low speeds, but you can easily just turn the **** a few clicks when you need to. Not to say you can't adjust a rotary damper, either.. but it will just be more of a headache to be honest.
on a scotts you can keep the low speed valve really loose and crank up the high speed valve (tank slapper) to the point where it feels normal turning the bars but when you get a slapper it stops it dead. I just like my steering stiffer from the begining though.
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