Can i take this off or open them up without buying a full exhaust? I heard a 3rpm they start to open and then @ 8 rpm the ones under the air box start to open!? Is there anything i can do to have them wide open all the time? Any ups and downs to doin this? And whats up with i'm guessin the O2 sensor lookin thing in the side of the pipe?!?!?!? Thx ahead of time for any help! Thx....

 

I had a 929 and delt with the same delema. You are right about the RPM setting. The exhast valve has three positions. 0 to 3000 rpm, 3000 to 8000 and 8000 to red line. I dont know what rmp the flapper in the air box opens. I removed the cables to the valve and the air box from the servo motor and removed the flapper in the air box. My **** was faster with it all hooked up!. Mine was a FireBlade from Canada though so I dont know if that makes a difference or not. If it were my bike I would leave it alone. You can allways test it out by removing everything. Just dont cut the cables and dont unplug the servo motor because your FI light will come on. After you take off the cover to the exhaust valve you will see notches for three settings. You can play around with those to see what feels best if you decide to do it. Also Haas (sp) makes an eliminator pipe that fits between the header and the mid pipe.

 

I cabled mine wide open on my 929 stunter. Actually wasnt cable, just some nice thick wire, hehe...Also the one under the air box, just remove the flapper valve.....Yummy!!!...=-)

 

i left mine alone.. u get more low end power with it and it doesnt effect top end. though i do have a mig under seat exhaust with stock air filter and no pc3.. i had a full hindle on it and def noticed a huge difference when i put the valve back on.

 

Yea i think i might just leave it alone! Thx for the info, Good thing i asked before i got to taring **** apart! Thx again!:YEAH

 

I tell you it runs like crap on idle with the stock valve, idle jumps up and down even with 2nd cable mod, but I´m too lazy to fix it so I deal with it

 

I believe that but thats what makes you a better rider, Any ways idle doesnt jump when your under load from what i've heard they are smooth once your on idle.

Anyways the FI on 954 is programmed arround the airbox flapper and exhaust valve. so unless you do some serious tuning with a power commander its going to stay shitty. unless you run like a 4k rpm idle.

i knew people the ran stock idle and they did just fine and i can turn my idle up to 2500 (stock ajuster) and have no problems with eratic idle

 

maybe the euro models a worse because of the strict emission controls, I have some serious problems with my idle sometimes, always when above 3k, it takes a couple minutes and readjustments till it stays where it suppose to be, I have it at 4k with the second cable.
With the stock cable I´m also able to turn it up to 2500 but when I rev the engine the idle won't come down below 4000 for some reason, so 2300 was my limit with stock cable for not getting in issues cause when the idle doesn't come down when you need it you can wreck seriously ...lol

but an F4i will come soon, and thank god it doesn't have so much electronic **** in it like the 954

 

Take all the cables off servo but leave eltrical plugged in so u don't get light then pull flaps out snd make sure they are wide open and weld them that's what I just did on my 01 cbr 929rr and the power difference in insane just a suddgestion that's all worked amazing for me.. hope it helps