DirtyToes

my clutch was slippin and i replace it, it was toast!

so i pretty much got a new clutch in 2 weeks ago. LOVED IT!:YEAH

since 2 nights ago at the spot, the clutch started sliipin again.

installed a new cable this morning and gave it about an inch of freeplay on top adjuster/tensioner, went to deh spot tonight and it was slippin again.

...WTF! it'll slip, and then all of a sudden catch. it was kinda hard to pop up a predictable wheelie.

any ideaz?

Wheeliest

any broken fibers when u removed the old clutch?, did you replace the steels? did you torque the springs down to equal specs? NEED INFO.

DirtyToes

u mean if the fiber plates were broken? if so, then no, they were not.

yes, new steels

and no, didn't "torque" them down. just tightened em all the, to the point, where one of the screw heads snapped. (put a new one in)

and fyi - dipped the fibers in oil before putting 'em in.

wat doesn't make sense is why it felt so ****** good for the first week or so, and now it's like this?

-matt g-

U probablly snapped one of the plates..
Did u let it soak in oil before you installed them?

i had the same thing happen before on a brand new clutch.. Take out your clutch plates and look for a broken one...

does your clutch catch if you let out the clutch and give it throttle and hold the rear brake then stop and pop the clutch?... If it does then id definatly check out the plates

cjstunts

could be the basket as well, i had the same problem, and the basket was worn out.

DirtyToes

that sounds so confusing ....so with the clutch dis-engages(out) gas it which holdin the rear brake, let off the brake and pop the clutch which still on the throttle?

DirtyToes

which part is the basket?

old man roger

the basket is the part the fibers slide into and if there are grooves worn in the slots that hold the fibers in place that can cause them to stick some times ....

when ever you change your clutch you should soak the fibers over night in regular oil not synthetic and run regular oil in the bike for the first feww weeks then if you want you can then run synthetic , and clutches brake in by way of heat cycling meaning you get them up to tempeture with normal riding then let them cool over and over again .....clutching up 100 wheelies really isn't a good way to brake in a clutch...

old man roger

oh and make sure nothing is sticking like your clutch lever and cable

DirtyToes

can you define "sticking"? u mean have no free-play?

i soaked the fibers in regular oil for about 5 minutes...not overnight

and to brake it in, i didn't pop a single wheelie for the first 100 miles. just did some canyons for the first 100 miles, keepin it low revs almost the whole time, but hit up a stunt spot for and hour the same night. (after the 100 miles) i guess that wasn't enough?

so does this mean that i'm gonna need a new $200 clutch or is it somethin that i can fix??

#2 or #4?

old man roger

when i say sticking i mean when you release the clutch lever make sure it isn't sticking and not releasing

cjstunts

the basket(#4) acts like another steel plate, and the cover(#10) also acts as a steel plate. If the face of the basket or cover is worn or burned, the clutch isn't going to clamp tight, so it will be slipping. If you take it apart now, before you do more damage, you might be able to salvage the clutch. get a manual and it should give you specs as to the thickness and trueness of the 2 covers, and should tell you as well, what the "stack" thickness should be. By stack i mean the friction and steels stacked up.

DirtyToes

..so meaning that basically either one could be worn out?

i'll open that **** up tomorrow hopefully n' post pics.

DirtyToes

GOOD NEWS!

my clutch completely ****** gave out tonight!

i was at the spot for maybe 2 hours, ofcourse it was slippin the whole time, but i juss put up with it. anyway, after i came down a wheelie, i grapped the clutch and reved it, but the bike moved "WTF", so the clutch wasn't engaging at all.

tried adjusting at top and bottom, didn't help.

push started it, so i can get it on my truck, and after about 20 feet of ridin it, i grapped the clutch , revevd, it and it was working again....

its ****** weird.

ExtremeAcres

My money is on " A Notched Clutch basket"

When the fingers on the clutch basket get notches in them... Then the interlocking fingers (on the outside edge of the fibers ) get hung in those notches...and do not Slide ...in and out...to sandwich and unsandwich with each other.
You can File the Fingers till they are smooth again... but you can only do this repair about once ...and the fingers get too thin....and you have to get a new basket
If You repair your basket soon enough ....and havent burned your new fibers and steels up too bad ... you might stioll get some use out of them ... While it back apart and you're repairing the basket.... Scuff the steels with medium grit sandpaper... good luck man

ExtremeAcres

you also see those rings ...#12 and #5 in the illustration above ? They have to be in there in a certain way ...they are different from each other if i recall...one is saucer shaped and one is flat... make sure you got that **** right

DirtyToes

still havn't had a chance to open it up, but **** i hope that i don't have to get new plates

DirtyToes

okay....so would this be one of the parts that i "might" need to change?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...spagenameZWD1V

here is a better pic from the manual:
v

also, checked the manual, no "stack" size but its got a size for the friction plates...service limit: 2.6mm (0.10 inch) so i'm pretty sure it means that if its any smaller than that, i can keep usin 'em

old man roger

yes if that part has grooves from the plates it can make the clutch stick and if the plates are smaller then the recomended thicknes it means there warn out

DirtyToes

10-4..."roger" that

i'm takin it to my buddies shop tomorrow and yankin everything out. w