StinkyFatPig

aight so for the past 2 years i have been dealing with this stupid ******* bike.

i have replaced just the fibers(stock).. then the fibers(3rd party) and steels, that stuck the best, then my basket blew up. then bought a used whold basket and EVERY clutch peice. and still.. it works for a while.. then starts slipping again.. now i cant even open it on on straights without it slipping.

So my last resort is to try sanding my steels and hope my basket doesnt blow up. anyway so what should i use? i have heard just skuff pads and i have heard of some people using sandpaper.. if so what gritt.. and how hard should i go on it?

and if this doesnt last atleast a couple months this year this bike is going to the ******* scrap metal bin

Lotus

sounds like you installed a used basket with a worn clutch. Just suck it up and buy new oem steels/fibers/springs. Should work like new.

old man roger

i agree with lotus....

are you leaving enough play in your lever ? no play in your lever = short clutch life.....

and the clutch release lever will also get worn out if you don't have it adjusted right,and that will cause you to have to tighten up the lever so it will disengage the clutch and like i said that kills every thing [catch 22]

StinkyFatPig

i have already spent over a gnote on clutch garbage including all the oil filters and **** ive cracked this clutch open atleast 7 or 8 times. I think im done with this bike..
I considered installing new springs, but i was told by the dealer that im waisting my money and they dont wear out.

StinkyFatPig

thanks man.. i know the clutch lever may have sometthing to do with it.. i always thought i left alot of play but im never really sure.. im just going to try sanding the plates and give myself as much clutch play as possible to make sure im not leaving it slightly unengaged so its slipping.

then look for a new bike.. im just tired of it. i havent had a solid month of riding with it without something ******* up. I know everyone deals with this.. im just bitter

old man roger

heat does ruin springs ,and thats a fact....

oh and while it is not recomended those little brown cookie looking thing from 3m will scuff those plates up,you know the ones you put on a die grinder ....

those plates are made of some hard ****, sand paper probably wouldn't touch them

StinkyFatPig

Thanks man thats what i needed to know.. I think this bike is going to be retired and ill just clean it up and let the girlfriend ride it or something.. cause its just not going to cut it as a stunt bike.. I feel like im 2 years behind because im constaltly either waiting for parts or finding cash to pay for the parts. and in canada you only get a few good months of riding, and last summer it spent most of the time in the garage... painfull.

Wheeliest

warpped pressure plate. pitted clutch basket, pitted clutch boss etc... if u have broken fibers then u most likely have a warped pressure plate.

punishmentcycle

+1 nice assumption. there is a good chance of a warped pressure plate as wheeliest has said.but i think it's a little more of an operator error.7 or 8 times working on a clutch,more than likely your missing something.my guess is that your not adjusting the cable properly at the motor side of the cable.plus are you using stock plates(steel and fiber)?and better yet what kind of oil?if you use car oil that clutch will slip like hell

Wheeliest

if you use oil that says ENERGY CONSERVING in the SAE circle on the back, thats your ******* problem, this will allways make your clutch slip

old man roger

dejavou

StinkyFatPig

im using pensoil 10w40 motorcycle oil.. so its for a wet clutch.. is there something better i should use? is there an oil that will be better for a clutch stickin?

as for the warped presure plate.. when my basket blew i replaced EVERYTHING like every single peice of the clutch other than the cable and the lever. so that shouldnt be the issue.

punishmentcycle

on the back of that bottle there is a circle with (ase or sae) and it will say energy conserving.if it says energy conserving thats your problem.you should only use motorcycle specific oil anyway in my opinion.i would drain the oil and run a factory motorcycle oil.ride it for 15 min to get the oil warmed up and then open the bike up and see if your clutch slips after a little bit

-nelson

Ive been dealing w/ the same problem for about the past 6 yrs. about when I really started slippin the clutch alot highway wheelies,tank ,highcahirs etc. im on a 99 zx9r ,very similar to your bike I started off using barnetts (whole kit, friction/steel/springs) that was good for pretty much the whole season /summer. A couple seasons on the bike and my clutch basket exploded also ,I was on the highway goin like 150 and the rear tire just locked up ,there was a huge cloud of smoke in my rearview. anyways I put a new basket in ,well from another motor and that never happened again. But I still go through clutches , this past october I had put in new friction plates and springs from EBC ,dont ever do that! I took the bike to Daytona for Biketoberfest rode around a bit ,did a little stunt show @ a drag strip in Deltona , when I got back my clutch was already slipping!

So my advise to you man (besides get a more modern,lighter,fuelinjected bike , like I need to do) ,Is to only use stock, and do friction,steel and springs every time ! dont bother w/ the scuffing up the surface tequniqe ,why would u do that? oil up the [plates real good let em soak before you install them and just get used to it its the nature of the beast(oldkawi).. goodluck

old man roger

its not the nature of the beast i had a 98 zx 6 that like 5 people learnd to stunt on then i beat it to death every night for a year and that clutch still worked when i sold it.....

-nelson

well it was the nature of the beast w/my bike and it seems that way w/ his . the only bike i seen thie same thing hes describing is on my bike. Ive been a certified m/c tech. for 10 yrs and own a repair shop ,and to tell you the truth i havent dealt w/ constant clutch issues w/ anyone elses bike . So for me to say its the nature of the beast sounds like i am reffering to all old kawais , when i really should have said" nature of my beast" right on I stand corrected..........

StinkyFatPig

awesome.. thanks man. that sorta what i wanted to hear, basicly just buy a 636.. or something that people have raped over and over and still have no issues. this bike is officialy turning into the gf's bike.. wheres my pink rattle can?

Basket expolding is ******* scary.. i did it in a first gear thank god, even in first it blew one of my fork seals.. i couldnt imagine doing 150 and coming down that hard..

DENIRO600

Do you soak your fibers before you install them? Do you put all the steels in the same way? (they are stamped and have a round edge and a sharp edge) You can get after market springs that are stronger but run OEM frictions and fibers and soak them for like a day! After you put in the new clutch do you A. ride it like you stole it? or B. ride it easy for a couple hundred miles. If it is A that could also be a problem!

StinkyFatPig

yeah i soaked my fibers for atleast 8 hours.. and the factory told me steels are the same both ways.. i asked

and yeah theres no way i put a couple hundred miles on it.. but i took it easy for a bit.. good chance itwasnt long enough. but i did try a used clutch.. still same ****

DENIRO600

I am sure you have some old steels around. Feel the edges one is sharp feeling and the other is almost rolled. Just put them in facing the same way. Some people say put the sharp edge toward the pressure plate some say the opposite. I am not saying this is the problem but that his how we do things just to make sure! I was being funny about the couple hundred miles but, you do want some sort of time before you start popping or manually slipping. It is really hard to solve problems over the net and phone. I work at a shop so I had to put phone in there. Don't scrap it I will take it if you don't want it anymore!