4K, you need a valve adjustment, fork tube oil drain and refill mandatory bro..... it's gonna be nasty!! Might as well get the oil change out of the way, you runnin 10W/40 kawi or 20/50? 20/50 will smooth the motor out a bit in high temp climates (100+) & be sure to use 7 weight fork tube oil.

 

i think people are confused..

 

my 636 is making this ticking noise on low idle, anyone actually try the roll it backwards in 6th gear ****? if so, did it work and how far do you have to roll it...

 

why do you say that? per kawasaki it's 5 wt oil stock. Those forks are way too stiff from factory so i definately wouldn't run thicker oil.

 

this is an old thread, i only dug it up to see whats up with fixing this ticking noise, anyone want to help me out here?

 

get the valves adjusted....only way to stop it. i would do it soon because it's causing damage to the valves when they slam shut like that

 

you dont think it could just be that the cam chain tensioner needs to be readjusted? the rattling is only on low idle and doesnt get louder with revs. valve alignment will probably be expensive...

 

you can't tighten an auto cam chain tensioner. you could buy a manual one, but if the noise doesn't get louder with revs then it's not hte cam chain. cam chain gets louder with revs and sounds like bb's rattling like crazy. a continious tick is the valves. it WILL mushroom the valves causing you to have to replace the valves and re-surface the seat. i'm a mechanic and work on race bikes. you can bullshit it all you want but when you buy a bike you're going to have to do maintenance on it, plain and simple. neglect it and trust me, replacing all those valves and re-surfacing the seats will be a lot more

i'm just telling you how it is, i'm obviously not making money off of you so why would i make bullshit up?

 

the best way to see if your valves need adjusting is to adjust your vales ....lol

and to see if it is your tentioner hold the bike at 6000 rpms for a couple seconds and get use to the sound its making ,then just let go of the throttle if it rattles alot during decell then you need a tentioner .....

buy an adjustable one ,all honda and kawi tentioners brake they suck ,and i always say buy oem for every thing so if im telling you to buy after market you should believe me

 

i just tried that, it doesnt really rattle at 6k but then when i let off and it goes back to idle it resumes the same rattling noise . i would adjust my valves, if i knew how to... id have to take it into a shop for that probably and theyre gonna charge me out the *** im sure.

 

if your tentioner was bad then you probably wouldn't here it at 6000 rpm but as soon as you let go of the throttle it will make a lot of rattling as it decells .....

get it ? as it decells as soon as you let go of the throttle ,not really talking about when it's idling

 

Mine is doing the same thing, ticks at idle but at higher rpm's you can't hear it. No idea how to adjust the valves, I'll have to look at what's involved.

 

yea i get what youre saying, the noise isnt as its de-reving, but it resumes on idle... i tried the 'push it backwards in 6th gear for 20 feet method' all this did was make me really tired and sweaty, still ticks...

 

the stock tensioner adjusts it self when ever there is slack in the chain it has a spring in it and teeth to keep it from going back in and this is how it keeps tension on the chain....when the teeth on the tensioner brake then you get the rattle because the tensioner is only being held by the spring

 

I don't know the specifics of the procedure, but my friend did the sixth gear roll backwards trick...............it actually worked. Quieted it down for a while.

 

it wasnt my tensioner, its the valves.

 

wow, you asked a mechanic and the mechanic told you valves and you should get them adjusted...you argued, finally decided to have it looked at like the mechanic on stuntlife told you and BAM, i must be a ******* phsycic, VALVES.

i've done plenty of work on 636's since they have come out....they have valve issues. they go out of spec super fast, usually around the 6k mark. if you get 10k before your first valve adjustment you are lucky.

 

Kawasaki Valves Are Notorious For Being Tight, Either Way I Would Inspect The Clearance . Its Not That Difficult To Check The Valves, The Only Tough Part Is Pulling The Cams If Different Shims Are Needed. Check Them Yourself And Then Take It To A Shop If Removing The Cams Is Necessary. Should Save You Some Money.

 

very imformative thread.. I just hit 7200 miles on my 06, and its been ticking like a timebomb.. have a 3 year extended warranty, but i'm sure the dealer is gonna try to jerk me around.. will see..

O'ski.

 

valve adjustments are a normal wear item as far as warranty's are concerned,unless you have a service contract you will probably have to pay for it out of pocket