You have to cut perch to have HB hard up to cluch and in better spot than to low.Its not a must just better

 

Haha, nice pics. I liked how you showed every imaginable step, including filling the fluid res. and washing the bike off.

Got a Q though. Hw is that little adapted held into the brake cylinder. I'm not seeing and threads or whatnot?

 

just like stock snaps in small stock screw holds it in place.

 

how much did it cost total?

 

yea i tryed the banjo bolt to the rear caliper thing didn't work defitly needed the jucction valve.

 

over here about $300 so $250 u.s.d I am thining

 

what happened to the pix of the step by step way to install, just curious this is a great idea and i'm gonna do the junction valve and pic up a lever with master and already have the line and bolts.

 

GPTech for sure is the way to guy, most of our guys use them and never have an issue with them we have a ton of them in stock as well and we are abit cheaper then retail http://warpedtoys.com/junction-valve...er-p69480.html if you still need one.

 

I'm always amazed how that adapter can stay on with that one 3-4mm bolt, it's so tiny bolt and the brake pressure is so high.

 

thats a good deal man and a bit cheaper than retail everyone else seems to be sellin um for, i'll be gettin one very soon at that price no doubt. thanx for the info

 

We buy them in bulk.

 

if you dont hose clamp it, it flexes a bit

 

I would build the adapter like this. u-bolt around the back. it would be solid.

 

just welding would be way safer
use the thread piece from another master!

 

Id use a GP tech fitting only if the master its for uses a snap-ring and not one tiny M3 bolt to hold the adaptor on....Otherwise I only trust welding them on, Im not down with leaks and hose clamp butcher jobs....Fittings cost next to nothing to make, and a 1 minute weld shouldnt cost you much either....

Ive made many like this and theres no chance of leaks and lettign air in

 

looking good! I was also thinking that the mounting point could be threaded and the adapter could be screwed in. welding is probably the safest and the best way. do you disassemble the unit before welding.(probably, it would melt the seals?)

 

Threading was my first thought but all the taps I had would only cut 2 or 3 threads then bottom out, looked into a better tap and it was like $100..So I said **** that and had my welder weld on the adaptor in 1 min for $20...If I bring him a bunch at once it costs like $10 for the adaptor and $10 for the weld...

Yes you have to remove the guts inside the master before welding, very simple one snap ring and everything pops out, the pic in the middle of the black master with the aluminum adaptor is gutted and ready for welding....
Even with the guts removed you need a good TIG welder, it is very easy to warp the bore or burn off the coating inside the bore...A friend of mine didnt want to pay for my welder and said he had a guy that could do it, he came back with a burnt master asking why it leaked blaiming me.....You could tell just from the colour of his master that the welder he took it to overheated the master and ruined it...