inexpensive hand brake

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Old Apr 10, 2005 | 10:56 PM
  #1  
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inexpensive hand brake

i have an r6 and an extra lever assembly
is there anyway to configure a cheep handbrake?
everyone has one but me.
and im broke right now.
i have heared of something that you can add to your master cylnder that will alow another brake line to run to the lever.
but dont know the specs
PLEASE HELP

biscuit
Old Apr 10, 2005 | 11:14 PM
  #2  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

I know youre looking for cheap but I got the fullthrottle set up. Theres lot of options out there but for me getting the fullthrottle with all the stuff you need just made it easy. IF you go the lever w/master cylinder you could always set up a second caliper....
Old Apr 10, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

but where whould i find a bracket
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 01:04 AM
  #4  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

i made mine for 10 bucks! (for f4i)

you will need a double banjo bolt (off of a front brake system)
keep the crush washers
an extra rear master cylinder
and 2 long lenghts of brake line (yamaha front brake systems have equal length lines)
10mm x 1.25 cap
10mm x 1.25 nut

take off your rear mastercylinder and remove resovior and the plastic peice that's screwed into it. take your extra master cylinder and cut the part off where the line goes in. this will be welded on to where the resovior would normally connect. if you dont know anyone with a tig/heliarc then go find a place that repairs alluminum boats-they can weld a *****'s **** water tight.

ok now you have your modified cylinder. you can get a length of steel line now and be done, or if your broke like me, take your 2 long brake lines and run a banjo bolt through them with the crush washers in place (ei. washer, line, washer, line, washer) now you will need to go find a cap for this bolt that will seal off the end, (i welded the hole shut too) but a cap is mandatory. the size and pitch should be 10mm x 1.25. And if you go to hardware stores like Lowes, they will have a bunch of these caps screwed into a board used to size up your bolts and nuts. you need to "buy" this piece from them. Screw the 10mm nut to the cap and use the nut as a backup to tighten the bolt. Put your front master cylinder on and bleed your line and that's it. also, you will have to find the shortest route to your rear brakes with such a short line, but it will work good as buying a $200 system.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:17 AM
  #5  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Just wondering... wouldn't it work if a person just ran a double banjobolt, took the rear resevoir off and capped it somehow?
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:24 AM
  #6  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

have 2 caliper brackets welded together,so you have 2 calipers ,run 4 foot brake line to your mastercylinder
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 08:52 AM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by slikz
Just wondering... wouldn't it work if a person just ran a double banjobolt, took the rear resevoir off and capped it somehow?
Shhh!! you're gonna give away this summers secret
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:07 AM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by MikeM
Shhh!! you're gonna give away this summers secret

I don't think it'll work.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by Schwartz
I don't think it'll work.
second that
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 01:28 PM
  #10  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

I've had the fitting in my rear master for almost two years now. It doesn't take long for the word to get around. My phone blows up all day!!!
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 01:43 PM
  #11  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

I have the Gp adapter and the master cylinder/perch and lever that you need. you just take out the stock one and pop this baby in. Whole thing for 40 bucks plus shipping.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by BigBalla
i made mine for 10 bucks! (for f4i)

you will need a double banjo bolt (off of a front brake system)
keep the crush washers
an extra rear master cylinder
and 2 long lenghts of brake line (yamaha front brake systems have equal length lines)
10mm x 1.25 cap
10mm x 1.25 nut

take off your rear mastercylinder and remove resovior and the plastic peice that's screwed into it. take your extra master cylinder and cut the part off where the line goes in. this will be welded on to where the resovior would normally connect. if you dont know anyone with a tig/heliarc then go find a place that repairs alluminum boats-they can weld a *****'s **** water tight.

ok now you have your modified cylinder. you can get a length of steel line now and be done, or if your broke like me, take your 2 long brake lines and run a banjo bolt through them with the crush washers in place (ei. washer, line, washer, line, washer) now you will need to go find a cap for this bolt that will seal off the end, (i welded the hole shut too) but a cap is mandatory. the size and pitch should be 10mm x 1.25. And if you go to hardware stores like Lowes, they will have a bunch of these caps screwed into a board used to size up your bolts and nuts. you need to "buy" this piece from them. Screw the 10mm nut to the cap and use the nut as a backup to tighten the bolt. Put your front master cylinder on and bleed your line and that's it. also, you will have to find the shortest route to your rear brakes with such a short line, but it will work good as buying a $200 system.
I'm a little confused on what you did here. So basically you just eliminated your foot brake master cylinder and used it as a jump off point to connect the two lines with the double banjo right? So your foot brake doesn't work anymore?

Just use our method. This is the easiest, cheapest, and best idea i've seen. PM me if you have any questions.

https://www.stuntlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=112085
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:40 PM
  #13  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by slikz
Just wondering... wouldn't it work if a person just ran a double banjobolt, took the rear resevoir off and capped it somehow?
Thats a great idea--I'm wondering the same thing...If capping it does'nt work what about filling the hole with a bead of aluminum to close it back up? Hmm I got an extra 929 slave I might start tinkering with here...Anybody try this method?
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 04:50 PM
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

You won't be able to use your foot brake because the pressure from the foot cyclinder would go in both directions both to the brake and to the handbrake. A double banjo won't work and let you keep using your foot brake.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 07:18 PM
  #15  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by MikeM
Shhh!! you're gonna give away this summers secret
There are no secrets. I had my first h.b. set up on my old r6 two years ago. Someone saw it,asked questions and now my phone blows up everyday with people wanting them.
Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:35 PM
  #16  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

no no no!

in the picture is what i added. it is a better way to make a rear cylinder for single caliper set-up, as opposed to using a piece of plastic as a fitting.

the full-throttle cylinder however, would be the best. but were talking about CHEAP handbrakes. SO...

the DOUBLE BANJO BOLT is only used to make one long brake line from 2 short ones like this ---> o-----------o(banjo)o---------o get it?
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:17 AM
  #17  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by BigBalla
second that

LMFAO
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:19 AM
  #18  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by JonnyJ
You won't be able to use your foot brake because the pressure from the foot cyclinder would go in both directions both to the brake and to the handbrake. A double banjo won't work and let you keep using your foot brake.

Thank you!

It might work for a second before you blow the top off your rear resivour.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:23 AM
  #19  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by BigBalla
no no no!

in the picture is what i added. it is a better way to make a rear cylinder for single caliper set-up, as opposed to using a piece of plastic as a fitting.

the full-throttle cylinder however, would be the best. but were talking about CHEAP handbrakes. SO...

the DOUBLE BANJO BOLT is only used to make one long brake line from 2 short ones like this ---> o-----------o(banjo)o---------o get it?




(Big)o-------------o(Balla)o-------------------o(reeeeeee)o----------------o(tard)


What's up man? I welded mind today. I had the GP tech fitting but the lever feel was a little off. It got better I wish it was a little more solid feel to it. I'll work with it.
What events you hitten up this summer Man??
Holla Balla.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 01:20 AM
  #20  
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Re: inexpensive hand brake

Originally Posted by Schwartz
(Big)o-------------o(Balla)o-------------------o(reeeeeee)o----------------o(tard)


What's up man? I welded mind today. I had the GP tech fitting but the lever feel was a little off. It got better I wish it was a little more solid feel to it. I'll work with it.
What events you hitten up this summer Man??
Holla Balla.
i just worked the kinks out of mine. i only been on it once and it was locking up the caliper cause i messed up the first time i tried to use a double banjo to splice the lines.

are you bleeding the lines at all the banjo's? The one at the lever normally collects lots of air. I bleed mine, then road a little bit and then bleed again and its got real good feel. I'm using a 14mm nissin brake cylinder, too.

i haven't had time to think about comps, or practice anyway. me and pawpaw are doing a show in deep south texas (basically north mexico, lol). being on academic probation, i gotta put a lot into the next month of school. hopefully i can find a little time to play catch up, and then go full force after finals. hit me up with some events, i have no clue whats happening this year.

later, stone cold!



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